Looks good to me! It's virtually impossible to obtain a true colour, or colour temperature match, by comparing tones from images, electronic or photographic, as there are so many variables. These include the original source lighting, the printing process, and, of course, differences in computer monitor resolution, brightness and contrast. The only way to get a true reading is from the original paint surface itself. Added to this, is the light source under which the model itself is being viewed. Only fairly bright daylight, or a 'daylight simulation' light bulb will give a true rendition, especially when photographed, although many digital cameras can cope to a reasonable extent, if the white balance is adjusted accordingly, and test shots made to correct as required.
I agree with Dan regarding the gloss coat. To obtain a perfect surface for decals, it's best to apply a good, smooth, clear gloss coat to the model. When the decals have been applied, thoroughly set, and the model cleaned of any decal adhesive residue or softner/setting agent marks, then a further clear gloss coat should be applied, which not only sealds the decals, but also provides an even tonal appearnce. These coats will have the effet of not only sharpening the paintwork demarcations, but, by diffusing the light, will also darken the tones and colours slightly. Finally, depending on the finish of the actual aircraft, a 'scale' finish should be applied, in clear gloss, matt or semi matt. This again will slightly darken the overall effect and, at the end of the day, if it looks right, it is right!
I personally feel that there is too much b*ll*cks talked about 'correct' colours - very often, on a flight line, even with modern aircraft finished in 'high tech' coatings, variations in overall tone and colour can be observed, and that's before any 'weathering' effects are considered.
So far, your model looks great, and, when finished, the main thing is, if it looks good and acceptable to you, then your aim has been axchieved.