Scratchbuilt (1 Viewer)

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Gerar it is an excelent work again.:D
For the glass you used a part a bottle of mineral water, didn't you.
 
hi guys....
the glass is any piece of transparent plastic, like the wrapper of batteries or yes a thick plastic bottle will do. Heat it a little with a candle then press the wood form, let it cool and cut to final shape........there you go, now you can make any cockpit you want...:) :) :)
I finished the P-32 last night, I´ll take pics tonight and post them.....Then??, how about Balbo´s SM-55???
 
Sounds interesting.And I agree with you the kind of plastic materials is a very good material for the glass of cockpit conopies.But sometimes it can get yellowish after some years.Like the cockpit conopy of my Hellcat.:(
 
Well Guys here is the Piaggio 32...........

FINI22.jpg

"That old decal flew into the wind!!!! will hace to replace it...:|

FINI41.jpg


FINI34.jpg


FINI31.jpg


FINI23SUPER1.jpg
 
That is simply amazing! I just found out how to make a new canopy for the 1/32 F-14 model which has a broken canopy ( the joys of raising kids..) from gerar's post :D
 
thanks guys.........................but as part of my crusade on making solid wood models let me just remind everyone.............This is easy!!!!!! back in the old days before plastic kits, the 30´s, 40´s and early 50´s (20th Century!!) this was it!!!!......there were .25 and .50 cents kits of every airplane you can think of!!! and all kids in the block made them...............its just a technique that once you make two or three its as easy as cream pie!!!!!!!
Try it ............needed materials: A good three view plan of the aircraft, lots of photos, hand saw or electric, big file, small files, sandpaper all grades, pins, wire, paper, bamboo, thread, fast glue, wood glue, filler, plaster of paris ( for engines and wheels)...planning, more planning.....jump into it.....work, work, patience, more patience....sweat,more sweat....time, more time...........and Don´t ever use Balsa wood!!!!!!!! get pine, mahogany or any other " not so hard wood"..............GO GO GO!!!! :) :) :) :)...................by the way guys, these models last a lifetime and more!!! I have one my grandfather made back in 1926...:)
 
Gerar mate fantastic stuff and you have inspired me to have a go however with your plaster of paris casting what are the formers, like how do you mould them?
 
Hi guys......

I will be going to Italia for vacations by the middle of the month so I will be posting again with some model in August.......Thank you all for your kind words, which I appreciate very much.
Heinz....for making engines and wheels with plaster of paris...I make the "formers" or main form, from wood......but let me give you a "Quick formula" to start:
1)Get some "school clay" or Playdo, all kids have this, or are available everywhere.
2) Take a "Plastic Kit" engine and "Press" it in the clay to make a "form" or mold.
3) Spray the clay it with PAM.....this is a food spray used on cooking utensils which you coat with so food won´t "stick" to it.....this is done so the plaster will not "stick" here also.
4) make your plaster of paris mix and pour into the mold.......let dry until completely cured.....the time here depends on the characteristics of the plaster, but usually its about 2 hours.
5) Remove the dried plaster engine or wheels from the clay and with "very fine files" and tiny pieces of sandpaper "finish" the part to the best detail wanted.
.........................Finish..............You now have a perfect engine or wheels!!!!.........
I told you it was easy as Cream pie!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :) :) :)
 
Vince57
Senior Member: asked:
By the way, I was thinking of moulding parts from melted lead, but what material should I use for moulds, that could stand the heat of melted lead?

You could use plaster if it is a one off casting, copying a kit part for example. I've done this to copy a missing or deformed part for an old kit where I have another with a good part to take the mould from. I've found that the plaster can't stand too many repeated uses before it cracks. Its ok for one or two but thereafter, no.
For multiple casting try RTV silicone for the mould. It is available in large-ish amounts (500g 1kg tins) especially for white metal casting. 'White metal' used to be pewter, ie Lead and upto 10% tin and 0.5% bizmuth. Lead is fluid at about 230 degrees. I'm going to try some 'high temperature' automotive silcone sealant which is supposed to be able to withstand temps up to about 350 degrees. This sealant is available in small tubes, handy if you just want to make one small mould.
Also: lead filler used in the automotive restoration industry is 50% lead and 50% tin (actually it has a little bit of bismuth added too) a handy source of pewter base. Lead on its own is soft and malleable, the tin adds strength but also slows its fluidity (if such a word exists!) but just a bit. I cast some spoked cart wheels, approv 16mm diameter. in lead they are weak and bend easily, in pewter they are stronger. But I found lead ok for replacement 1/72 Hurricane and 109 E G wheels because they are more solid. I wouldn't try a prop or mg in plain lead.
I hope all this info helps. If you need more I'll be glad to share what I know. I'm no expert but I have no fear in trying to mould and copy parts when I need to and have learnt a few things by the old 'trial and error'.
 
Hi Gentlemen:

Long time no see!!!:shock:
Well I had a great vacation in old Europe starting in Barcelona (Flew from Panama direct to Madrid---11 hours:| ...then to Barcelona. Two days later hired a car and drove to Lourdes, France. Flew on to Milano, Italia, again rented a four wheeled machine and drove to Verona, Lake Garda, Mestre (Veneze) and Bologna. Then took a train on to Rome......after 18 days got back home...:p
------------
Now I have started one of my favorite planes...Italo Balbo´s SM-55X. As you remember General Balbo lead 24 SM-55´s "Crociata" from Orbetello, Italy, to
the Chicago World Fair in 1933--------feat never surpassed in the history of aviation----
Here is a the first photo ( Somehow I mixed up the letters!!:cry: )

PASO1.jpg
 
Hallo Gerar,
Nice to read you there again.Taking your new SM-55X project into consideration you have had a graet time really and you have much more strenght to cope with this.:lol:
Waiting for more pics.:D
 

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