Tamiya 1:32 Corsair F4U-1A Build

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Ok! Got it! I read the GB instructions and find them easy to comply with. I think I missed this one. I really want to continue the Corsair build, but really appreciate the invite. After the Corsair, I have another significant structure build for the model railroad. After that, there will be another big plastic job and it could be a 1:32 bomber.

Thank you all for the encouragement and good thoughts!

I finished up what makes up the cockpit today.

It started with building the seat. It's five plastic parts plue one PE. Unfortunately, the PE part is completely hidden with the seated pilot.

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I airbrushed all the interior green parts that were included up to this point plus the interior of the fuselage and some other bulkhead parts for the aft of the aircraft. As noted before, the engineering on this kit is exceptional. Where you have fit challenges with Trumpeter, this one is amazing. And being 1:32, you can pick out details that would be almost impossible in smaller scales. Case in point; the skull and cross-bones decal on the pilot's flight helmet, and a decal on the instrument panel.

I glued the seat in place, and painted and installed the oxygen bottle. It called out semi-gloss black, but I painted it zinc-chromate yellow.

F4-U-1-A-Seat-Mounted.jpg


The underside of the seat is unpainted, but does not show at all. Getting the PE seat belt to stick using medium and thin CA was a challenge. It is VERY springy material and took more time than I would like to finally get it in place. All of the other PE seat belt material is not used when having a seated pilot. I also didn't put the wash on the seat since, that too, would be occulded by the pilot.

I glued the aft cockpit bulkhead in place trapping the control column and then, using thick CA, glued the pilot in place. Only then did I glue the right arm in place in such a way to grasp the control stick's handle. For this I used standard Testor's tube cement since it has some bulk and would fill any gaps between the arm and the body.

Now I had to get those pesky PE seat belts to join with the molded-on belts, which I now had to repaint from the white of the parachute seat belts to the dark tan of the cockpit seat belts since I didn't realize that some of the molded-in details were seat belts, not parachute belts. This was a wrinkle I wasn't expecting.

The PE parts are probably stainless steel and are very difficult to shape. I tried to pre-bend them so the tension would be reduced a bit so the CA had a chance to hold them in place.

I scraped the paint off the pilot's seat belts so the CA had something to which to hold and then held them in place and hoped for the best. The first belt glued quickly, but the second was a different story. My experience with CA is if it doesn't glue the first time, any further attempts get worse. Each attempt had me scraping the cured CA off the plastic part so I wasn't putting new CA over old CA. Eventually it stuck and I repainted all the distubed areas.

F4-U-1-A-Cockpit-Finished-6.jpg


The instrument panel cowling had several small parts that glue to it before attaching to the instrument panel. Out of the five parts needed to be glued, I had two take off to the quantum rift: the little two-toggle panel on the right side and the clear gyro-stablized gun sight optic. Of the two, I finally found the clear part which would have been the worst one to lose, but couldn't find the little switch panel, so I scratch-built it out of piece of sprue and two pieces of high-E guitar string. I used a Xuron hard-wire cutter to cut small pieces of the piano wire, and if I need two pieces, I end up cutting 8 or more since they are microscopic and fly into the rift without warning.

F4-U-1-A-Instrument-Cover-SB.jpg


After painting and assembly the panel looks okay. There is a conduit that comes out of a hole in the instrument panel and goes to the bottom of the gun sight that is not included in the kit. I attempted to make it out of a piece of wire insulation. It didn't work, couldn't really be seen, so I scraped the idea.

I used some Microsol Liquid Mask on the gunsight's lens and airbrushed the cowl semi-gloss black, picked out the toggle switches with the Molotow Chrome Pen and then glued it to the cockpit assembly. My source book shows the leather front edge of the cowl to be a brown shade which I may paint tomorrow just to add more intereset.

With the addition of the canopy cowl, the interior is complete and ready to be installed in the fuselage. I notice that I've worn some black off his headphones that needs to be touched up.

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The cockpit of this model was the singular most complex and complex cockpit model I've ever built, and believe me, I've built a ton of them. Tamiya is to be congratulated for doing it this way. In later versions of Corsairs, a cockpit floor was installed. It was a real pain when the pilot would drop something in the cockpit and it would end up on the bottom laying on the fuselage skin. It would be most difficult to retrieve something there. Kind of like fishing something out from between a car seat and a console.

Next up: more interior fuselage stuff in preparation for joining the halves. Can't wait to build the engine... I love radials and this one's a beauty.
 
The pit and pilot look really good. As a tip, try scoring the surface of the PE to be glued with a hobby knife or some 80 grit sandpaper. The PE sticks much better to the roughened surface.

No problem with the GB. Understandable given the projects you have lined up but maybe there's a subject you have that will fit a future GB.
 
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Does either the Mossie or Typhoon count as a bomber? I've got my eyes on both of those kits with the Mossie as the Tamiya 1:32 kit and the Typhoon as the 1:24 Airfix kit. I want to build the Typhoon just to have a crack at the Napier Saber engine. At the rate I'm going on the Corsair it could be done in a month, but I think the GB window would have closed by then.

Today was a milestone day: fuze joined. Before doing that there were a bunch of details that needed to be installed on one side or the other. In the aft portion, there were brackets, blocking pieces for the tailplane joining area, and four bulkheads and added details including the elevator bellcrank and actuating lever. Some of these pieces I had airbrushed on the sprue, but still had to hand paint some interior green to finish it all up.

On the cockpit starboard (R) side there was an group of switch boxes held on a piece of flat PE with some CA. Two of the three pieces were dropped. I found one on the shelf at the bottom of my roll around work bench. The other was apparently gone and after I swept about 25 square feet I gave up. Then later, I see a little black speck at least 10 feet away and there it was. So I got all three installed and mounted to the fuze side. There's even the flare pistol which I painted exactly according to the plans plus wooden grips.

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But... all of this wonderful detail is totally invisible as evidenced in the next group of pics.

Joining the fuselage was a joy! Even with all that stuff inside it just popped together. The seams are almost invisible. If any filler is needed, it will be very little. Then there were several panels that also fit perfectly.

The cockpit opening is narrow (almost claustrophobic) and you can see almost nothing of all that fancy painting I did. I pity the guys that go the next step and run simulated wire runs to all the side switch boxes, also which will never be seen. The only seam that may need some work is the one immediately in front of the cockpit.

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Here's looking up in the tail section. When the tail wheel and arresting gear are installed and then partially occluded by the gear doors, most of this won't show up either.

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The last work I did today was paint the fire wall Tamiya Bare Metal Silver spray and install it. In this image you can see the beautiful fits on the front panels.

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This same step had the exhaust pipes joined to the fire wall... at least 2/3 of the 6 pipes. The last two get installed just before the engine is mounted. I wanted to air brush them Tamiya Dark Iron as a base coat and needed to hold them. While the outlets are beautifully molded with the impression of an opening, I drilled them with a 0.032" drill and use some wire of the same size to hold them for paining. I will enlarge this hole just a tad to complete the illusion that these are, indeed, exhaust pipes.

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After painting and weathering I will mount them to the firewall, which itself needs some weathering before the pipes go on. This model is moving along nicely.

Last night I gave the okay to laser cut my next model railroad building, so after the Corsair is built, I'll be back at railroad work.
 
Hmmm…. so maybe I should consider buying the Tamiya Mossie??? It's a spectacular model at the same level of sophistication as this Corsair, and that's saying something.
 
With Terry. Even there if you chose to build an FB VI then that would be borderline as that version was essentially a fighter that carried bombs. I think I would be OK with it though. The B IV version would fit the bill perfectly.
 
I would accept the Mosquito FB.VI. Even though classed as a fighter-bomber, the FB.VI took part in many raids on major targets, especially low-level 'pin point' raids, and in anti-shipping, with RPs, it packed a mighty punch.
 
As much as I'd love to build the Mossie FB (spent hours reading reviews and looking at videos of building it) and would choose the Tamiya version versus the HK version, but I really want to finish the Corsair and it's going to take another month. Plus, as I'm writing this, getting another building laser cut for the railroad.

Went to the LHS to get some maintenance items: Tamiya masking tape, CA glue tips and some graduated plastic mixing cups. So I got to work around 2:30. Got the exhaust pipes air brushed and installed on the firewall.

F4-U-1-A-Exhaust-install.jpg


Before installing the pipes, I dry-brushed some flat black and added some weathering powder to the sheet metal trough where the pipes exit. Then I air brushed the pipes Tamiya Dark Iron rubbed with some Rusty Brown weathering powder; not much, just enough to change the hue. And or course, you won't see anything but the tips which I painted flat black. I used my new Point Zero detail air brush for this. The nozzle is very fine and keeping it clean is not easy. There is another set that doesn't get installed until the engine is installed.

Instead of painting the engine parts separately, I sprayed/air brushed/brush painted all the ones that I could while still on the sprue. This pic shows the color selection. The cylinders are rattle-can sprayed Tamiya Bare Metal Silver. I then sprayed the intake pipes and pushrod tubes Tamiya Semi-gloss Black and the exhausts the same as the pipes on the firewall. I looked up the R-2800 on the web and saw that the gray can vary quite a bit. I took Tamiya Neutral Gray and added a lot of white and made a light gray.

F4-U-1-A-Engine-Painting.jpg


Some very fine details need to be picked out before removing the parts from the sprue such as the bottoms and tops of the push rod tubes are shiny, there is a black band around the bottom of the cylinder head to the lower cylinder, the valve covers are shinier than the cylinders, and then there's the provisions for spark plug wiring.

I have some Albion Metals very tiny brass tubing that is going to serve as the ends of the plug wires entering the cylinder heads. I used these the first time when detailing the wing fold area on the Avenger, so I'm comfortable cutting and handling it. It's best to cut it on some masking tape so the pieces stay where you cut them. You roll a sharp #11 blade back and forth to cut it. If you don't add any extra piping or wiring on a model, the least you can do it put the sparkplug wires on a 1:32 kit.

The lower cylinder has a slightly different cast than the heads, and all the fins need some seam treatment to set them off.
 
My daughter asked my wife and me to help her do some election day canvassing and it was a beautiful Fall day here in the L'ville, so we did it for a couple of hours. It took away some of the stress of waiting for election results and gave us a chance to get some fresh air. But I did get to "work" on the Corsair at around 2:30 and got to work on detailing the R-2800 engine.

I started by drillig the spark plug locations on the front cylinder (part 5) using a 0.021" carbide bit which is the hole size to recieve the piece of small brass tubing for the spark plug wire. I also, drilled out the two lugs up near the valve covers which will be the mounting place for a cross-over tube, that I don't know what they do, but it's a neat detail to add. This is a photo of a 1:16 scale R-2800 model that was offered (built-up) by Fine Art Models a few years ago.

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Here's another pic of the actual engine.

Pratt-Whitney-R-2800-Engine-1.jpg


And here's another shot showing how the spark plug wires lead to the back of the front row and the other set to the back row. Notice, the wire goes through the black sheet metal shield (which the model includes) which completely obscures the plug connection to the back of the front row. So I'm not going to worry about any super-detailing anywhere but the front of the front row. Notice also that from the side of the cylinders all the way back there is another sheet metal shroud that directs airflow closely around the front cylinders and provides a more uninterrupted path to the rear cylinders. These shields are never provided in model engines. Modeling with wine bottle foil would be possible, but not necessarily useful.

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The R-2800 has two distributors and two plugs per cylinder, not for system reduncdency, but to manage the flame front across the cylinder and prevent engine knock. By firing plugs on both sides of the hemispherical combustion chamber it precludes the flame front from compressing the charge to pre-ignition temp before you want it too. And, NO, Chrysler was the inventor of the Hemi...

After drillig the holes I tinted the fines starting with Brown Tamiya Panel Liner to color the lower cylinder area and Tamiya black liner for the head areas. I then hand painted that black connecting seal between the head and cylinder body.

F4-U-1-A-R-2800-Cylinder-Painting.jpg


The Albion Metals tubing I'm using for the spark plugs has a 0.021" O.D. and nicely accepts a 0.010" plug wire. To cut this tiny tubing I laid down a piece of double-sides Scotch tape and rolled a single-edged razor blade back and forth until the tube separated. The sticky tape contains the tiny tubing piece so it doesn't go into the quantum rift. I then threaded them onto a piece of high E guitar string so they wouldn't get lost.

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Not only did the guitar string contain the parts, but it served as a guide to enable me to place the tubing over the hole in the engine and push the tubing in using a tweezers.

F4-U-1-A-R-2800-Installing-Spark-Plugs.jpg


The only thing I didn't get right in putting the tubes in is some are in deeper than others. I should have had a gauge to stop the pushing at just the right moment. If I do it again, I'll do it different. Funny thing happened... I had a bunch of tubes cut and threaded onto the guitar string, but not at the back, up front. I had the string on the cutting pad arranged for a photo, when the string fell to the floor, and, of course, every single piece of tubing was launched into the rift never to be see again. So I had to cut a whole bunch more to take the new picture.

For the cross-tubes, I originally was going to use the brass wire I'm thinking about using for the ignition wiring, but it was too soft and couldn't hold shape. I measured the distance between the holes using the tapered jaw width of my ChannelLock long-nose pliers, and marked the jaw at the selected width. I then was able to bend many copies of high E guitar string (piano wire) to the hole spacing. I drilled these holes with the #86 (0.011") carbide and it was an expensive operation. These tiny drills are about $1.50 each and I broke three of them.

After inserting the wire I put a drop of thin CA at each hole to hold everything in. If anyone knows what these tubes do, please tell me.

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