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A couple weeks ago, I was working on yet another old 1911. I swapped out the sear spring with one by Cylinder & Slide and replace the sear with a brand new one from Colt. It seems to have cured the creep in the trigger and weight is now 3 pounds 11 ounces.
Last week I was shopping for yet another 1911 type. I am hoping to get a Kimber Pro Raptor II. I had to learn what al the Kimber code words meant. I don't want a "Carry" because that would be an aluminium frame gun.... Pro means it would be a Commander length gun with a full size grip frame.
I have quite a few Aluminum frame guns in 9 mm.
The problem with an aluminum frame in a .45 ACP 1911 is that the frame is part of the feed ramp on these guns and with the wrong kind of magazine (Chip McCormick) with Devel followers, the follower may move forward and impact the feed ramp. It has no effect on a steel frame. On aluminum, it chews up the feed ramp. I know Colt 8 round magazines may also have the same "Shooting Star" follower. Some of the more aggressive hollow point ammunition will do the same thing over time and once the anodized coating is gone, the bare aluminum does not resist further damage very well.
General estimates of the lifespan of the aluminum 1911 is somewhere between 15,000 and 25,000 rounds which is fairly low in my opinion. That is taking into account that other parts of the frame may crack with impact damage. These guns were intended to be carried often and shot relatively seldom.
A Frame Insert block or fully ramped barrel prevents the feed ramp from being chewed but it doesn't prevent the eventual frame cracking. Your Kimber Pro Carry may survive longer but many similar guns do not.
I have no real issues with well designed guns such as a SIG or Beretta or Taurus that use an aluminum frame because the frame is not subject to the same level of stress. Some like the SIG have a steel block which takes the real stress. The Walther P1 probably falls into the same category but I have no experience with the gun. I am not so sure about aluminum S&W automatics. The ones I have examined seem to always show wear on the surfaces that cam the barrel down for unlocking and they are very thin sections of the frame.
In some ways it looks a bit like a 1911 but it was strictly a design for the Polish Army in 1936, hence VIS Mod. 35, frequently called a "Radom" after the Arsenal there. This one cost me $12 in the Babenhausen Rod & Gun Club in 1963.I know I have seen the Polish Radom Pistol, but I am pretty sure I have never shot one. Sometimes barrels are unpredictable. With pistols, it is mostly a matter of how well fitted the barrels are and how consistent the lockup is. With revolvers, it is a lot harder to figure out though I am learning....
Regarding 1911s, 35 years ago, I would have agreed with you. Today, I won't because there are a lot more choices and many companies produced and customize the guns in ways that make them fit a lot of different people. My issue with the first Colt that I bought was the same: It felt too big and just didn't seem to point all that well. After just changing to a pair of thin checkered Rosewood grip panels, the gun feels totally different. Each grip panel is thinned about 1/16 inch. It doesn't sound like much but feels very different. I am about to do the same for another Colt gun with stock Colt medallion grips. Some companies cut a different radius under the trigger guard and that improves how the gun sits in the hand. The Colt Gold Cup I posted a picture of some time back had that done at the factory. Kimber does that also but in a less obvious manner. Some companies carve up or checker the front of the grip frame or have different shapes of grip safety and mainspring housings and triggers which change the general handling of the pistol.
My Smith seems to like JHP ammo in the 124 grain range, though most balls in the 115 grain range do well enough.
I know there's hotter loads (147 gr. or higher) but I'm not trying to penetrate a bunker and in a rapid-fire situation, hotter loads tend to take longer to require the target.
Plus hot loads are hard on alloy frames (or older firearms, which many of mine happen to be).
I bought a WW II Walther PP in a Birmingham, AL second-hand shop. If I pulled the trigger V-e-r-y slowly it would fire full auto.