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Gerry
Staff Sergeant
Here's the latest update from the Avro production line, but first let me acknowledge the last series of posts. To Aviatik: that is the site I alluded to in my early posts. I have found it very useful and informative and it has forewarned me to some problems that might otherwise have caused me grief (more about that later) and also set standards to aim at. I have tried to register on that site just to show my appreciation but it appears that I am on a waiting list for ratification since September. To Night Fighter Nut: I'm going to go as detailed as possible, within my abilities. All skins will be riveted, with a riveting tool supplied "free" with the kit (see photo later). However I don't see myself installing working lighting in the finished model. And to Darryl and Wayne, as always, thanks for looking in.
Now back to the build. I have been progressing building the remainder of the fuselage sections which took me longer than I had thought. This proved to be quite therapeutic in a sheltered accommodation type of way. I also attached the wing tip to the port wing, photos 1 2. This consisted of bending the lower section and glueing it with superglue to match the curve of the outer rib. Then the spars were added (I forgot to photograph this bit) and when dry, the plywood upper wing section is bent into shape and glued with a lot of help from clamps and pegs until dry. The sanding of the leading and tailing edges to shape, still need to be done.
The next section tackled was the mid-upper turret section. The assembly instructions for this piece appeared over 4-5 non-consecutive issues in an order of, say, C, D, B, E, A rather than A, B, C, D, E which made more sense. This is what I'm trying to think ahead on to make life easier. I suspect that the reason for this was that the parts weren't available to the publisher in time for the correct build sequence. It's also possible that I'll have included something now that will cause me problems further along. We'll just have to see. Photo 3 shows the start of the curved keel at the rear of the fuselage. The former isn't set at a 90o angle, as had the formers to this point. However the attachments are cut to give the correct angle (about 85o)
Ignoring the instructions, the first thing I added was the skin for the flooring as it was easier to peg it in position before the formers are added. Photo 4.
Then the bulkhead was detailed with strip and rod. Note the hatches in the floor, supplied as separate parts. This level of detail is wonderful but at the expense of other major parts not supplied at all? Photo 5
Photo 6. The next part to construct is the aperture for the dorsal turret. This, believe it or not, took two pages of instructions! The reinforcing bars were all individually measured and cut from wooden strip.
Photo 7. Next the formers were added but the longerons were just dry-fitted after being marked with the measurements from the keel notches to ensure they would be parallel (A)
Photo 8. Just to show up the riveting of the floor skins a little clearer.
Photo 9 10. The finished section. Just as well that I hadn't glued the longerons to the formers as instructed. When the turret aperture is fitted there needs to be several adjustments to the fit to get it into the correct position.
The final section of the fuselage was the first to cause me real problems. Photo 11 shows some of the problems I encountered. A. The keel has to be broken to get the correct upward curve. If the parts are fitted as instructed it results in a very severe slope to the upper fuselage. B. All the notches in the keel and formers had to be deepened. C. A mistake of my own making. I reversed a former that had a notch for the crew door lintel to the opposite side so I had to cut a new one. D. This part needed major surgery to line up properly (See also photo 12). The receiving holes A, B C had to be enlarged considerably to get it to line up. The repairs were later disguised by plastic sheet.
Photo 13 shows my method for getting the curve right. I used a schematic drawing of the fuselage as a template to adjust the angles. If I had built as per the instructions, I would have ended up with downward curving longerons rather than straight and there would have been a step in the keel. I had been forewarned of a problem in this area from the other build but not how to correct it. That I had to work out for myself.
Photo 14. The section as it ended up - not without casualty. This section includes the crew door and the rear turret mount. A. is part 118 adjusted to fit properly. B. is some reinforcement where I had to cut the keel. C. I have just discovered in issue 90 that this section of the keel has to be cut away to mount the tail wheel assembly! D E. Some more repairs. You have to be very careful applying pressure points. By pressing in the wrong places I snapped the top arches off a couple of formers and the ring for the tail turret. Fortunately the formers were easy to repair by lining them up with cocktail sticks. I added the triangular supports for the tail ring to give it added strength.
Photos 15, 16 17. The overall fuselage assembly held together by cocktail sticks. There is a gap of about an inch between the two sections. This is caused by the instructions retaining the overhang of the longerons on one section for later use(?). It gives a better idea of the size of the beast now and how it will eventually slot together. I'm also happy that the sections are lining up true. I can't be sure how it'll come together when everything is tightened but I'm confident any slight misalignment could be corrected by shims.
That's it for now. Until the next post, cheers,
Gerry
Now back to the build. I have been progressing building the remainder of the fuselage sections which took me longer than I had thought. This proved to be quite therapeutic in a sheltered accommodation type of way. I also attached the wing tip to the port wing, photos 1 2. This consisted of bending the lower section and glueing it with superglue to match the curve of the outer rib. Then the spars were added (I forgot to photograph this bit) and when dry, the plywood upper wing section is bent into shape and glued with a lot of help from clamps and pegs until dry. The sanding of the leading and tailing edges to shape, still need to be done.
The next section tackled was the mid-upper turret section. The assembly instructions for this piece appeared over 4-5 non-consecutive issues in an order of, say, C, D, B, E, A rather than A, B, C, D, E which made more sense. This is what I'm trying to think ahead on to make life easier. I suspect that the reason for this was that the parts weren't available to the publisher in time for the correct build sequence. It's also possible that I'll have included something now that will cause me problems further along. We'll just have to see. Photo 3 shows the start of the curved keel at the rear of the fuselage. The former isn't set at a 90o angle, as had the formers to this point. However the attachments are cut to give the correct angle (about 85o)
Ignoring the instructions, the first thing I added was the skin for the flooring as it was easier to peg it in position before the formers are added. Photo 4.
Then the bulkhead was detailed with strip and rod. Note the hatches in the floor, supplied as separate parts. This level of detail is wonderful but at the expense of other major parts not supplied at all? Photo 5
Photo 6. The next part to construct is the aperture for the dorsal turret. This, believe it or not, took two pages of instructions! The reinforcing bars were all individually measured and cut from wooden strip.
Photo 7. Next the formers were added but the longerons were just dry-fitted after being marked with the measurements from the keel notches to ensure they would be parallel (A)
Photo 8. Just to show up the riveting of the floor skins a little clearer.
Photo 9 10. The finished section. Just as well that I hadn't glued the longerons to the formers as instructed. When the turret aperture is fitted there needs to be several adjustments to the fit to get it into the correct position.
The final section of the fuselage was the first to cause me real problems. Photo 11 shows some of the problems I encountered. A. The keel has to be broken to get the correct upward curve. If the parts are fitted as instructed it results in a very severe slope to the upper fuselage. B. All the notches in the keel and formers had to be deepened. C. A mistake of my own making. I reversed a former that had a notch for the crew door lintel to the opposite side so I had to cut a new one. D. This part needed major surgery to line up properly (See also photo 12). The receiving holes A, B C had to be enlarged considerably to get it to line up. The repairs were later disguised by plastic sheet.
Photo 13 shows my method for getting the curve right. I used a schematic drawing of the fuselage as a template to adjust the angles. If I had built as per the instructions, I would have ended up with downward curving longerons rather than straight and there would have been a step in the keel. I had been forewarned of a problem in this area from the other build but not how to correct it. That I had to work out for myself.
Photo 14. The section as it ended up - not without casualty. This section includes the crew door and the rear turret mount. A. is part 118 adjusted to fit properly. B. is some reinforcement where I had to cut the keel. C. I have just discovered in issue 90 that this section of the keel has to be cut away to mount the tail wheel assembly! D E. Some more repairs. You have to be very careful applying pressure points. By pressing in the wrong places I snapped the top arches off a couple of formers and the ring for the tail turret. Fortunately the formers were easy to repair by lining them up with cocktail sticks. I added the triangular supports for the tail ring to give it added strength.
Photos 15, 16 17. The overall fuselage assembly held together by cocktail sticks. There is a gap of about an inch between the two sections. This is caused by the instructions retaining the overhang of the longerons on one section for later use(?). It gives a better idea of the size of the beast now and how it will eventually slot together. I'm also happy that the sections are lining up true. I can't be sure how it'll come together when everything is tightened but I'm confident any slight misalignment could be corrected by shims.
That's it for now. Until the next post, cheers,
Gerry
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