Same here! Amazing!
1/350 USS Princeton CVL-23 - Unofficial GB
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- Thread starter
- #122
Crimea_River
Marshal
I hope you don't think I did it! Chris Flodberg is your man.
A4K
Colonel
No, I know it was his, but looking forward to yours!
- Thread starter
- #124
Crimea_River
Marshal
It will be a long wait I'm afraid!
That really is superb work!
A4K
Colonel
No worries Andy, be worth it I'm sure!
Builder 2010
Staff Sergeant
This post stopped at March. What's happening now? I just read the reviews over those Dragon kits and am gobsmacked, especially since I'm now wrestling with the Trumpeter 1:350 USS Essex CV-9. It too required lots of filling and filing to cover loose seams and mold lines. I would love to know very specifically how you work your PE. I've built a nice Missouri with a ton of the stuff and while the end result is spectacular, the process was plug ugly. I have trouble getting good contact using CA on PE. I've resorted to soldering the stuff (with decent results using a resistance soldering system), but find that the small parts want to stick to my tweezers in deference to sticking to the model. On the Missouri I hand built all the yards and masts out of brass and will probably do the same on the Essex. But your work on the island radar structures was impeccable and I would like you to tell me your secret of applying CA so carefully and getting the assembly to stay together. I really like the Dragon's AA guns. They're terrific. Also like that the roller doors and WTD are already open so you don't have to do surgery to add to the model's interest.
- Thread starter
- #128
Crimea_River
Marshal
Thanks for your interest. I will respond in more detail in a day or two when I can take the time to give a proper response.
- Thread starter
- #129
Crimea_River
Marshal
Sorry for the delay.
So, what's happening now is absolutely nothing. I'm primarily an aircraft modeller but got inspired to try this ship after seeing another one built. I'm not ignoring it but have just either not had the time or the inclination to get back to it but I will at some point. It's on the corner of my work bench so not far from my view. There are two other ships in my stash, a Graf Spee and the Scharnhorst.
Thanks for the very kind words both here and in your Essex thread. As for getting CA to stick to PE parts, I too find this a bit of a challenge but have not found it so bad that I would have to resort to soldering. The thing with PE is that it is very shiny whereas CA likes to stick to things that have a bit more texture. Where possible, I try to increase the chance of a good bond by scuffing the mating surfaces with a file, sandpaper, or even just scoring them with a blade, Of course, this isn`t always possible when dealing with stuff like railings and tiny gun shields but it`s worth doing where you can.
Before applying the glue, I want to also make sure that the parts that are to be joined have no spring in them that would tend to force them apart. In the case of the tower, for example, the edges to be glued need to be perfectly straight. Bent edges should be at the correct angle and any unwanted bends should be eliminated by continual adjustment of the part until it fits. It`s worth taking the necessary time to do this. Once the parts fit, I find a way to securely hold the parts to be mated that does not involve using my free hand. This allows me to support my hand that`s applying the CA if I`m going into a particularly tight area or to have a tissue ready to sop up excess glue if needed. I apply the CA using a round toothpick that is clamped into a pin vice or just held in my hand for easier jobs. If I want to apply a tiny dab, the toothpick is used as is. If I want to apply a bit more glue, as for example, applying along the edge of the tower or gluing a rail to the deck, I cut the toothpick to a chisel edge using a blade so that it looks like a small, straight screwdriver. Sometimes I use that as the applicator and sometimes, if I want even more glue on the end of the pick, I`ll cut a V-notch into the end. When I`m ready to glue, I put a drop of CA onto a piece of masking tape I stuck to my cutting mat, dip the toothpick and apply it to the parts. I never apply it from the bottle. I`ll then spread the CA along the joint and sop up any excess with the edge of a tissue. I often use accelerator as well, especially if applying glue to secure rigging. Those shrouds holding up the mast on the tower would have been held in place with tweezers in one hand, glue applied with the other, glue put down, dip brush in accelerator, then apply to the glued end of the shroud, all the while holding it in place until the glue sets.
I don`t want to imply that all this works perfectly. I did have instances where the glue separated on the tower and I had to redo some of the joints, sometimes more than once. It can be frustrating and it`s why I need to get away from the project at times. Having said that, I hope to get back to his build soon and do another spurt of PE work. I bought the White Ensign set and there are two large frets full of PE parts so there`s lots more to do.
Thanks again for the comments and I hope I`ve been able to help in some way.
So, what's happening now is absolutely nothing. I'm primarily an aircraft modeller but got inspired to try this ship after seeing another one built. I'm not ignoring it but have just either not had the time or the inclination to get back to it but I will at some point. It's on the corner of my work bench so not far from my view. There are two other ships in my stash, a Graf Spee and the Scharnhorst.
Thanks for the very kind words both here and in your Essex thread. As for getting CA to stick to PE parts, I too find this a bit of a challenge but have not found it so bad that I would have to resort to soldering. The thing with PE is that it is very shiny whereas CA likes to stick to things that have a bit more texture. Where possible, I try to increase the chance of a good bond by scuffing the mating surfaces with a file, sandpaper, or even just scoring them with a blade, Of course, this isn`t always possible when dealing with stuff like railings and tiny gun shields but it`s worth doing where you can.
Before applying the glue, I want to also make sure that the parts that are to be joined have no spring in them that would tend to force them apart. In the case of the tower, for example, the edges to be glued need to be perfectly straight. Bent edges should be at the correct angle and any unwanted bends should be eliminated by continual adjustment of the part until it fits. It`s worth taking the necessary time to do this. Once the parts fit, I find a way to securely hold the parts to be mated that does not involve using my free hand. This allows me to support my hand that`s applying the CA if I`m going into a particularly tight area or to have a tissue ready to sop up excess glue if needed. I apply the CA using a round toothpick that is clamped into a pin vice or just held in my hand for easier jobs. If I want to apply a tiny dab, the toothpick is used as is. If I want to apply a bit more glue, as for example, applying along the edge of the tower or gluing a rail to the deck, I cut the toothpick to a chisel edge using a blade so that it looks like a small, straight screwdriver. Sometimes I use that as the applicator and sometimes, if I want even more glue on the end of the pick, I`ll cut a V-notch into the end. When I`m ready to glue, I put a drop of CA onto a piece of masking tape I stuck to my cutting mat, dip the toothpick and apply it to the parts. I never apply it from the bottle. I`ll then spread the CA along the joint and sop up any excess with the edge of a tissue. I often use accelerator as well, especially if applying glue to secure rigging. Those shrouds holding up the mast on the tower would have been held in place with tweezers in one hand, glue applied with the other, glue put down, dip brush in accelerator, then apply to the glued end of the shroud, all the while holding it in place until the glue sets.
I don`t want to imply that all this works perfectly. I did have instances where the glue separated on the tower and I had to redo some of the joints, sometimes more than once. It can be frustrating and it`s why I need to get away from the project at times. Having said that, I hope to get back to his build soon and do another spurt of PE work. I bought the White Ensign set and there are two large frets full of PE parts so there`s lots more to do.
Thanks again for the comments and I hope I`ve been able to help in some way.
turbo
Staff Sergeant
Man, I know where you're coming from Andy! The Folgore I'm building has about 100 PE parts (most tiny) and I've had a gutfull of it!
- Thread starter
- #131
Crimea_River
Marshal
Yeah, I'll restart this when I have an urge to stick needles in my eyes.
parsifal
Colonel
The problem with building ships is that they tend to take a lot of time and a lot of space.
I have started using Andy a wood glue that has a low moisture content like you use for hardwood floors.It sets up pretty quick 15 mins fairly stout and about $8 for a 20oz bottle maybe 32oz.It goes on fairly thick and gives one those mins you need line up stuff.
They do Mike and it's just different way of thinking to get to the end if I had twenty under my belt I might be able to crank them out quicker.
- Thread starter
- #134
Crimea_River
Marshal
What do you use it for Kevin? PE? Does it stick?
Yeah for the curve PE railing it's super I will get the name later tonight for ya see how I can loose/find pieces on a clean hardwood floor tonight.
- Thread starter
- #138
Crimea_River
Marshal
Huh, interesting. I'll have a look for it. Thanks Kevin.
parsifal
Colonel
looking forward to when you find your six with this one again Andy
- Thread starter
- #140
Crimea_River
Marshal
Thanks Michael but it won't be any time soon. Maybe when winter rolls around here again.
