Catch22
Major
Looking good other Corey!
1/48 B17G Flying Fortress [Revell]
- Thread starter Maglar
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- #162
It's all part of the learning curve mate!
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Yep, and at times it can be a long, sweeping curve!
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- #165
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- #167
Yes.. That was just a seam check, now I will do the wings and attach em then primer the whole bird as it is Alclad and is required for best results with the NMF. As for smaller parts like the turret and "fiddly bits" that go on, I will prime those and spray them then glue them on so I dont jeopardize breaking them while handling the bird.
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- #169
Yeah, I didnt know that for my P38 awhile ago.. the bunny knows how to hop now!
Also it will be pain because Alclad dries so fast the airbrush is destined to get clogged every 5 minutes, im going to be a slave to this model when the paint comes about!
Also it will be pain because Alclad dries so fast the airbrush is destined to get clogged every 5 minutes, im going to be a slave to this model when the paint comes about!
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Thanks Wojtek, I didn't know about a retarder for acrylics - but then, I haven't got much experience with acrylics! Sounds useful stuff though.
Corey, if you haven't primed the bird yet, see if you can polish the areas where you've sanded first. This should eliminate any possibility of fine scratch marks showing through the Alclad later. (They're not always visible until it's too late!)
You can use 'T-Cut' (Don't know if that's what it's called in the 'States, but it's a car body colour restorer/scratch remover), but only use a small amount on a soft cloth, and ensure there's no residue left on the model. Give it a good polish, then wipe over with a clean, dry cloth or tissue, to remove any dried residue, which should show up as a whitish, or yellowish powdery substance, if present. If you can't get 'T-Cut', the next best, apart from a dedicated, and expensive, plastic polish, is a metal polish, as you'd use for cleaning brass or silver.Lastly, if all else fails, use toothpaste! It's a bit messy, and needs cleaning off thoroughly, but at least the model will smell nice!
Corey, if you haven't primed the bird yet, see if you can polish the areas where you've sanded first. This should eliminate any possibility of fine scratch marks showing through the Alclad later. (They're not always visible until it's too late!)
You can use 'T-Cut' (Don't know if that's what it's called in the 'States, but it's a car body colour restorer/scratch remover), but only use a small amount on a soft cloth, and ensure there's no residue left on the model. Give it a good polish, then wipe over with a clean, dry cloth or tissue, to remove any dried residue, which should show up as a whitish, or yellowish powdery substance, if present. If you can't get 'T-Cut', the next best, apart from a dedicated, and expensive, plastic polish, is a metal polish, as you'd use for cleaning brass or silver.Lastly, if all else fails, use toothpaste! It's a bit messy, and needs cleaning off thoroughly, but at least the model will smell nice!
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- #172
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
I don't know much about the relatively new polishing systems, being 'old school', but it sounds like the biz! Should be OK with such a fine grit and a soft polishing cloth.
If the 'Krystal Kleer' stuff is the Microscale stuff, a white, thickish substance in a small plastic bottle, then it's designed for making small transparencies, windows, lamps that sort of thing, and can also be used for fitting canopies etc, as well as filling small joints or gaps. It's basically PVA adhesive, 'white glue', which dries clear. Most of the things it's designed to do can be achieved with ordinary PVA, which is a fraction of the cost. However, it IS very good for the transparency job, such as small window openings, instrument faces, landing lamps etc., where you really need the clarity.
If the 'Krystal Kleer' stuff is the Microscale stuff, a white, thickish substance in a small plastic bottle, then it's designed for making small transparencies, windows, lamps that sort of thing, and can also be used for fitting canopies etc, as well as filling small joints or gaps. It's basically PVA adhesive, 'white glue', which dries clear. Most of the things it's designed to do can be achieved with ordinary PVA, which is a fraction of the cost. However, it IS very good for the transparency job, such as small window openings, instrument faces, landing lamps etc., where you really need the clarity.
Doing ok so far Corey!
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- #175
Ok, I researched it and it is used for removing minor scratches! Basically put it on the flannel cloth and rub it in straight lines over sanded areas and it fills it in. I just did this to the whole B17 and I can see little sparkle speckles in places I guess had scratches. The site says if your nail can go into the scratch you need another product, I think im buying the whole set!!
http://www.sisweb.com/micromesh/micro_gloss.htm
http://www.sisweb.com/micromesh/micro_gloss.htm
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- #176
Ok, jumped to the bomb cart because I wanted it out of the way. Did a nice olive drab coat on it and its all good, will weather it tomorrow. Cut the seams off the wheels and they need a black coat tomorrow, and the bombs were assembled back when I had the bomb rack in the plane so I went back and put squadron putty in them, these will also be sanded down and re-sprayed tomorrow. Just some concepts with the wheels, they arent glued on! The varnish product at the end is what I found out can work in my airbrush today! Its like future, probably not as good but I have satin and matte and it comes right out with water and my airbrush sprays it direct so.
PS: I would be most grateful if anyone could dig up some photos of bomb carts or know a bit or two, I want to weather it properly and give it that nice look.. I was thinking some dry brushed silver edges and maybe a buff wash for that sun fade effect, but maybe im out in left field on how it actually was..
PS: I would be most grateful if anyone could dig up some photos of bomb carts or know a bit or two, I want to weather it properly and give it that nice look.. I was thinking some dry brushed silver edges and maybe a buff wash for that sun fade effect, but maybe im out in left field on how it actually was..
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looks great Maglar, keep it up
Doin' good mate!
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
I'm with all.
