1/48 Trumpeter MiG 3 (early)
- Thread starter jjp_nl
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- #42
THX Wurger...considering it looked pretty dramatic with all the filler on the model this indeed came out pretty good.
One thing I will need to look into is to get the remains of filler from all the recessed details. This I suspect will be a real sh*t-sandwich (excuse my language) courtesy of Trumpy's 'mad rivet guy' Guess I'll be poking in all of them rivets with a toothpick dipped in nail-polish remover or something.
Thinking of using CA glue to fill gaps BTW, I don't think it would have worked in the most critical areas on this model. Milliput Epoxy putty would have been an option perhaps, but this came out alright too
One thing I will need to look into is to get the remains of filler from all the recessed details. This I suspect will be a real sh*t-sandwich (excuse my language) courtesy of Trumpy's 'mad rivet guy' Guess I'll be poking in all of them rivets with a toothpick dipped in nail-polish remover or something.
Thinking of using CA glue to fill gaps BTW, I don't think it would have worked in the most critical areas on this model. Milliput Epoxy putty would have been an option perhaps, but this came out alright too
Vic Balshaw
Major General
What a great job of sorting out those joins Jelmer, it looks nice and clean, as for the rivets, can't recommend anything but picking each and every one out with a pin or sewing needle. Others however will probably come up with a better method.
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Good work on all that filling, it's turned out well.
Nice!
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- #46
As I have to work a lot during the week I have little time to keep this build going full on all the time. However I've been able to do some work on a few odds and ends during what little free time remains during the week.
With this kit offering the possibility to lower the flaps I felt I needed to take care of a few ejector-pin marks on the inside of the flaps area. While not perse very visible, even with flaps lowered, I figured it wouldn't hurt to at least make them a little less visible should someone want to inspect the lower surfaces for some reason. So brought out the super glue and filled the ejector-pin marks to the best of my abilities.
After superglue had cured and dried it took some sanding to get it somewhat flush with the rest of the interior. This is no easy task as they sit in a hard to reach area as far as sadning is concerned. Probably would have been better if I had taken care of this before the wings parts were assembled all together, but I'll manage.
As I find it difficult to actually see how these things sit after sanding I applied a little bead of Mr.Surfacer 1000 to get some idea as to how it turned out. While not perfectly invisible, I think this will suffice for now (considering it will be next to invisible anyway with the flaps installed) Note the little dust-particle on the left of the pic has yet to be removed.
Another little job I took care of was the clearparts. After a previous attempt a dipping them in future had miserably failed I had them sit in the oven-clear (Mr.Muscle) to get rid of the messed up future coat. Thorough cleaning with water and afterwards some polishing with a jewelry polishing compound and toothpaste made sure the last remnants of the failed future coat were removed. Then ofcourse on to the next attempt at getting a decent future coat on the clearparts. Leading to the following results. Here the clearparts sit on the fuselage for the pic. The good fit of the clearparts is also somewhat visible. Note that the gap near the windscreen is not there if the canopy is properly aligned and glued in place.
One final little thing I did was assemble the rocket-projectiles that come with this kit. The filler + nailpolish remover trick was used to fill the joins between the tail section and forward section of the projectiles.
The good thing is, I have the rest of week off so I hope to be able to do some more work on this baby very soon. I have yet to touch up a few small spots on the filled/sanded areas near the lower cowling. But together with taking care of the ejector-pin marks in the flaps area this should wrap up all the filling and sanding work. Which means I should be able to fire up my airbrush fairly soon and get some colors going.
With this kit offering the possibility to lower the flaps I felt I needed to take care of a few ejector-pin marks on the inside of the flaps area. While not perse very visible, even with flaps lowered, I figured it wouldn't hurt to at least make them a little less visible should someone want to inspect the lower surfaces for some reason. So brought out the super glue and filled the ejector-pin marks to the best of my abilities.
After superglue had cured and dried it took some sanding to get it somewhat flush with the rest of the interior. This is no easy task as they sit in a hard to reach area as far as sadning is concerned. Probably would have been better if I had taken care of this before the wings parts were assembled all together, but I'll manage.
As I find it difficult to actually see how these things sit after sanding I applied a little bead of Mr.Surfacer 1000 to get some idea as to how it turned out. While not perfectly invisible, I think this will suffice for now (considering it will be next to invisible anyway with the flaps installed) Note the little dust-particle on the left of the pic has yet to be removed.
Another little job I took care of was the clearparts. After a previous attempt a dipping them in future had miserably failed I had them sit in the oven-clear (Mr.Muscle) to get rid of the messed up future coat. Thorough cleaning with water and afterwards some polishing with a jewelry polishing compound and toothpaste made sure the last remnants of the failed future coat were removed. Then ofcourse on to the next attempt at getting a decent future coat on the clearparts. Leading to the following results. Here the clearparts sit on the fuselage for the pic. The good fit of the clearparts is also somewhat visible. Note that the gap near the windscreen is not there if the canopy is properly aligned and glued in place.
One final little thing I did was assemble the rocket-projectiles that come with this kit. The filler + nailpolish remover trick was used to fill the joins between the tail section and forward section of the projectiles.
The good thing is, I have the rest of week off so I hope to be able to do some more work on this baby very soon. I have yet to touch up a few small spots on the filled/sanded areas near the lower cowling. But together with taking care of the ejector-pin marks in the flaps area this should wrap up all the filling and sanding work. Which means I should be able to fire up my airbrush fairly soon and get some colors going.
looking good!
Crimea_River
Marshal
Coming along nicely Jelmer.
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Yep, nice work there Jelmer.
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- #52
- Thread starter
- #53
After yesterday festivities (national liberation day) it's time to do some work on the MiG.
First up: every modelers favourite job....masking clearparts
I've found this way to work best for me. In other words, 'outline' the areas to be masked with thin strips of Tamiya tape and afterwards fill in these area's with larger pieces of tape. By using thinner strips first I intend create some flexibility as thinner strips can be worked around smooth curves a little more easy.
First up: every modelers favourite job....masking clearparts
I've found this way to work best for me. In other words, 'outline' the areas to be masked with thin strips of Tamiya tape and afterwards fill in these area's with larger pieces of tape. By using thinner strips first I intend create some flexibility as thinner strips can be worked around smooth curves a little more easy.
Crimea_River
Marshal
I agree. I use that technique as well.
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- #56
Painting has my MiG has started.
Starting off with building up the basic color for the undersurfaces. I wasn't exactly sure which color to pick. Looking through the VVS/EF '41-'45 groupbuild I came across T-Bolts Classic Airframes MiG-3 build where the issue of the undersurface colors was adressed by Wurger. I would seem that depending on which exact color one would pick RLM65 or RLM78 would be a pretty good start.
I went with RLM78. I used LifeColor Acrylics for this thinned down with Tamiya Thinner. This was the first time I've used Tamiya thinner with LifeColor Acrylics but I must say this combination works beautifully. I've used LifeColor before but working it was always a struggle compared to other brands of paint I use. Lot's of tip-dry in particular. But, with Tamiya thinner in it it works amazingly well. Not sprayed for a straight hour without tipdry whatsoever.
Note that through shading and fading the overall look of the undersurface is likely to change quite a bit as I go along, but laying down RLM78 seems like a good starting point to me.
Starting off with building up the basic color for the undersurfaces. I wasn't exactly sure which color to pick. Looking through the VVS/EF '41-'45 groupbuild I came across T-Bolts Classic Airframes MiG-3 build where the issue of the undersurface colors was adressed by Wurger. I would seem that depending on which exact color one would pick RLM65 or RLM78 would be a pretty good start.
I went with RLM78. I used LifeColor Acrylics for this thinned down with Tamiya Thinner. This was the first time I've used Tamiya thinner with LifeColor Acrylics but I must say this combination works beautifully. I've used LifeColor before but working it was always a struggle compared to other brands of paint I use. Lot's of tip-dry in particular. But, with Tamiya thinner in it it works amazingly well. Not sprayed for a straight hour without tipdry whatsoever.
Note that through shading and fading the overall look of the undersurface is likely to change quite a bit as I go along, but laying down RLM78 seems like a good starting point to me.
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- #58
pic's are indeed taken with artificial lighting so that's likely to affect the look of the pic's. I'll look into getting some of the greyish out through shading and fading. Have a few ideas already to get this done.
I agree the general colors should be a bit more blue rather then greyish blue. It is for this reason that I picked RLM78 in the first place as RLM65 seemed way too greyed out to use as a basic color imho. On the other hand, with so many factors having influence on how it looked in real life and how that translates into a small scale model I think I shouldn't overdo it on making it way too blue. Taking scale-effect into account a somewhat paler (greyed out) look might not be a bad thing, not to mention weathering/fading/shading/etc. etc.
I agree the general colors should be a bit more blue rather then greyish blue. It is for this reason that I picked RLM78 in the first place as RLM65 seemed way too greyed out to use as a basic color imho. On the other hand, with so many factors having influence on how it looked in real life and how that translates into a small scale model I think I shouldn't overdo it on making it way too blue. Taking scale-effect into account a somewhat paler (greyed out) look might not be a bad thing, not to mention weathering/fading/shading/etc. etc.
