Arnhem and Oosterbeek, June 2017.

[Airframes]

Operation 'Market - Garden' - a visit to the battle sites of 'A bridge too Far'

As Karl and I were in Holland for the Oostwold air show, there was no way we could leave without visiting Arnhem and Oosterbeek, places ingrained in every British 'Para'.
So on the day after the air show, we drove south 100 milles, where we'd arranged to meet-up again with Marcel, and also our Dutch para friend Sander (Kingscoy), at the Airborne Museum in the former Hartenstein Hotel, which was General Urquhart's Divisional HQ during the battle, and a scene of heavy fighting.
These first few pics show the road into Oosterbeek, and some of the exhibits in the Hartenstein, and further posts will show some of the notable areas around the Oosterbeek perimeter, before moving on to the Airborne Cemetery, and then the bridge itself.

PIC 1. In the first rain during our visit, we followed the signs from the motorway, leading us close to the DZ's and into Oosterbeek, 6 km from the city of Arnhem.
PIC 2. The road from the Renkum DZ, jut outside the outskirts of the town of Oosterbeek.
PIC 3. The Memorial Stone at the Hartenstein - just one of many memorials proving that the people have not forgotten the sacrifices made by the allied troops.
PIC 4. Col. Frost's Denison smock and Battledress tunic, with his famous hunting horn in the center, one of the exhibits inside the Hartenstein museum.
PICS 5 to 8. Some general shots of the exhibits inside the museum.
PIC 9. View from the front of the Hartenstein, over the Utrechtsweg, to the Airborne monument. This area to the front of the hotel was wooded during the war, and mainly devastated by shelling and mortar fire.
PIC 10. View from the rear entrance, looking over Hartenstein park. The whole area was dotted with trenches, and became a grim battlefield, with German snipers firing at anything that moved.

More to follow soon, with some pics of the excellent full-size dioramas in the basement, and the outside of the Hartenstein.

 

[Crimea_River]

Very interesting Terry. Looking forward to more.

 

[Wurger]

 

[Marcel]

Were you able to download my photos Terry?

 

[Wayne Little]

Excellent Pics Terry.

 

[fubar57]

Very cool

 

[Airframes]

Thanks chaps - sorting some more pics, and I'll post them soon.

Marcel, yes thanks, I downloaded your pics.

 

[Capt. Vick]

Brilliant!

 

[Airframes]

Thanks Jim.
Continuing with Oosterbeek and the Hartenstein museum, with a 'Then and Now' pic, and the full-size dioramas in the basement.

PIC 1. A round from a 'Nebelwerfer'. These weapons were used to pound the center of Arnhem, and also the Oosterbeek perimeter. The bombardment was so heavy, that the Germans named Arnhem 'Der Kessel' - The Cauldron.
PICS 2 and 3. "Then and Now". The front room of the Hartenstein, shown in a period photo on display in the museum, and how it looks today, restored to its former elegance.
PICS 4 to 10. The basement has been converted to show various stages of the landings and the battle, with full-size 'dioramas', effectively lit, and with full surround sound - very effective.

More of the museum in the next post, before moving on to the Oosterbeek War cemetery.

 

[Kingscoy]

Excellent photo's Terry It was a very enjoyable afternoon. It was a shame that I had a briefing later that afternoon...would have enjoyed coming along to the Oosterbeek church and bridge.
Cheers Sander

 

[Airframes]

More of the basement display in the Hartenstein, and another 'Then and Now' shot.

PICS 1 to 7. More of the very effective 'street battle' scenes.
PICS 8 and 9. A period photo of the main entrance, at the rear of the Hartenstein, and how it looks today. The modern structure on the left is the Museum entrance, shop and lift shaft - a glass conservatory was in this spot during the battle.
PIC 10. The original drive way from the Utrectsweg to the hotel, with a Sherman, and an AT gun, the latter a relic of the battle.

Next post will show the Airborne Cemetery, and moving down the Perimeter towards the river, and the final redoubt around the Oude Kerk.

 

[Airframes]

Thanks Sander. It was great to meet-up with you, and thanks again for your time. We managed to avoid the rain at the Oude Kerk and the bridge, and had a good look around, More pics soon - including the "F1 Mobility Scooter Pits Team " !!

 

[Kingscoy]

 

[Airframes]

After leaving the museum, we met-up with forum member Sander (Kingscoy), and had lunch at the restaurant next door, before moving on to the Airborne Cemetery, a very moving and sad experience.
Every year, on the Sunday closest to September 17th, a memorial ceremony is held here, when local children, already taught the history of the battle in their town, lay flowers on every grave.
We said our goodbyes to Sander, who had to get back to his unit for a briefing, and Karl, Marcel and myself moved on to the location of the final stand just above the river, around the Oude Kerk, passing the Schoonord Cafe and the Hotel Tafelberg on the way, both scenes of desperate fighting as the perimeter shrank around the defending Airborne troops, surrounded on three sides by elements of two SS Panzer Divisions.


PICS 1 to 5. The Oosterbeek War Cemetery.
PIC 6. The Tafelberg. This was Field Marshall Model's HQ, which he quickly evacuated when the landings took place, leaving his still warm dinner on the table !
It was later used as a dressing station for the wounded, and came under heavy fire. Even today, there are still bloodstains on the walls and floors. Unfortunately, only the facade remains of the original building, and it is not open to the public.
PIC 7. The Oude Kerk, just above the Neder Rijn (Lower Rhine), where Lonsdale Force held out to the end, and the final withdrawal across the Lower Rhine commenced. The ancient stone walls, patched and repaired, are still riddled with bullet and shrapnel scars.
PICS 8 and 9. The memorial stone at the side of the church.
PIC 10. Karl and I outside the church - note the bullet scars behind us on the wall.

Next post will feature more of the area around the Oude Kerk, with the withdrawal route and the house of "The Angel of Arnhem", Kate ter Horst, before following the river road into Arnhem itself, and the 'Bridge too Far'.

 

[Airframes]

Thanks Sander. It was great meeting up with you, and thanks again for all your help.

I'll post more pics tomorrow, when I've sorted them, including the "F1 Mobility Scooter pits team" !!

 

[rochie]

Great stuff Terry.

Those graves of soldiers with no names or even a unit badge really touched me.

It was brilliant to meet you Sander, thank you for taking the time.

 

[Old Wizard]

 

[Gnomey]

Lovely shots Terry!

 

[Kingscoy]

Karl...super nice meeting you all....perhaps next time in the UK....

 

[Wayne Little]

Excellent series of pics, Terry.