Consolidated B-24D LIBERATOR; 1/48 Revell (1 Viewer)

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Hard to tell due to the flash exposure, but that might be green ZC, or one of the many shades between green and yellow, used on a variety of aircraft, this one tending towards the yellow.
Either way, the yellow on the model is more than acceptable.
 
The color I used is XF-4 Yellow Green Tamiya, dirtied with minimal brown. Thanks Terry for the support and explanation.
 
Particularly reference post 302 Luis..that is sweet. Incredible work. The photo with the full panel and control columns is breath taking!

And Happy New Year to you and all here as well!!!
 
It seems that I finally have a chance to upload the first update of 2017.


This first sequence of photos were taken 10 days before New Year's Eve.

Regarding the machine guns of the sides of the waist; I decided better to carry out the technique of separating the gun to tape and paint the fuselage more easily; So I disarmed the structure of the right side and did the same on both sides ... let the photos speak !! ...



Then I could join the fuselage and be able to continue with the "slow and prolonged process of my Lib"



The following 3 weeks were practically dedicated to the family, commitments and trip inside my country, taking advantage of the visit of my children and spend several days together from the 24, until today. (Next week they return to Monterey)

Soon I share what I could outstrip at this beginning of the year.

Saludos y exitoso 2017 con mucho modelismo incluido!!
Luis Carlos
 
Hello Terry, Robert and Andy, I'm glad to be back, ... since the past year I did not know anything about you ... LOL

I send you a big greeting from Mexico; I'll upload more photos that I have already prepared.

Hasta pronto
 
It was the turn of the rest of the bomber's armament.




Based on real photos, the bubble of the upper turret has a metallic structure inside that I painted by hand with metallic gray.



By making a cold-set of the front bubble, there is a very noticeable gap (I am already thinking the best way to solve this).



I started filing and sanding the junction of the two sides, taping the panels. It took some putty to level certain parts.



The model presents a rather defective assembly of the base where the small observation bubble goes. I hope with a little putty and then molding better with Mr.Surfacer 500 or 1000, try the best remolding.



To see how I am in this stage of sculptor !!

Hasta pronto amigos modelistas
 
Nice work again Luis.
That gap around the rim of the nose glazing could probably be filled with PVA, Micro Kristal Kleer (which is basically PVA), or Humbrol Clear Fix.
Run a bead around the gap, allowing it to form a membrane between the two surfaces, and allow to dry. It will dry clear, and will also 'shrink back' a little, which means more than one or two applications may be required. Once set, it can be painted as normal.
 
Thanks for the advice Terry, I have Micro Kristal Klear and I can try what you suggest.
I had intended to put thin plastic styrene plain sheets.
The voice of experience is heard.

It is likely to be two or more applications of MKK. I have never used it for this purpose.
Question: Can you sand and / or add Mr.Surfer to leave the surface smooth?

I am thinking that with this option, I must work on the glazing of nose, polishing, masking, place the machine guns; ... separate the barrel from each one to let glued parts that will remain inside; ... and until the end of the process put every cannon to its machine gun.

All good advice and suggestion is well received.

Well, let's continue ...

Best regards.

Luis Carlos
 
The MKK or PVA can be lightly sanded after painting Luis.
I've just had another look, and I think I would add a bead of MKK or PVA, and when dry, paint it in the interior colour. Then, fill the gap with something like 'Milliput', smooth it off, and then sand when fully hardened.
See my Mosquito PR.IX and FB.VI threads in the current Group Build, where I had to do just this around the base of the canopy windscreens.
 
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