**** DONE: 1/32 Junkers Ju.87c Stuka - Carrier aircraft GB

[meatloaf109]

I would like to see a RLM Orange color on a Ju-87, Would be an interesting look *idea*

The blue looks very cool are you trying to simulate Blue RLM 24?

Nope, just had a can that I have had for a few years and decided to use it.
Orange? Maybe next time.

 

[meatloaf109]

I'm told that Pledge Future Floor Shine is also used to seal tissue and decals. I have never used it, tho.

Charles

Been starring at a bottle of Future sitting on the desk for a couple of weeks. Never occurred to me,....
But being as this one is a learning experence, I will give it a try on the wings.

 

[ccheese]

Been starring at a bottle of Future sitting on the desk for a couple of weeks. Never occurred to me,....
But being as this one is a learning experience, I will give it a try on the wings.

Nothing ventured, nothing gained. I belong to the Guillow's Model forum, and saw this up there:

Guillow's Model Builders Forum • View topic - Black covering

Charles

 

[fubar57]

Looking good Paul. I believe this is the scheme Andy was mentioning(RLM 72/73 over 65) but I do like your blue.

Geo

 

[meatloaf109]

The blue looks brighter in the photos than when it's sitting on the bench, but that is the basic look I am going for.

 

[Wayne Little]

Yep, 72/73/65 is the real scheme, go for what you want though Paul!

 

[ccheese]

Looking forward to more work and pic's.....

Charles

 

[mikewint]

Paul, a quick scan located darehobby.com. they sell and ship both nitrate and butyrate dope. A quart is $23.89 and it ships for $9.99 anywhere in the US. Since no engine is going to be installed the nitrate will work just fine, I'm sure there are other sources

 

[meatloaf109]

Thanks!

 

[mikewint]

Paul, After some heavy thinking I recall an old trick from years gone by. IF you have some old B&W negatives you can put them in a can or jar, cover them with pure acetone and cap TIGHTLY. After a day or so stir and add more acetone to thin if necessary. After a few days the negatives will dislove. Negatives are made from cellulose acetate. you will have DOPED the acetone with cellulose. the silver will settle to the bottom. Add a drop or two of banana oil to plasticize, filter into another jar and you have your own home-made Clear Dope (banana oil is amyl acetate)

 

[meatloaf109]

Thanks, Mike!
I wiil try to finish this one before the dead line. I have the flu so maybe not. But i will try.

 

[Airframes]

Careful - if they're Kodak negs, made after around 1972, then the substrate may well be 'Estar' base, a polyester derivative, patented (and the name trademarked) by Eastman Kodak/Kodak Ltd.

 

[mikewint]

Terry, thanks, in the OLD days negs were cellulose derivitives. at one time cellulose nitrate was even used, that's "gun cotton" by another name and is still used to make the nitrate dopes.
Paul, sorry about the flu hope you get better soon, its what happens when you burn the candle at both ends. Nowadays when I'm offered a number of ways to sin, I pick the one that gets me home by 10PM

 

[Airframes]

Yep Mike, and it was a good source of material for making a primer charge (Oops, I shouldn't have said that!) . It was also (in film negs, and film positives, such as movie film) prone to decay in storage, or worse, could suffer from spontaneous combustion.

 

[meatloaf109]

Mike, I know what you mean. That way it is possible to have enough energy for the next days worth of "sinning".

 

[meatloaf109]

The final push being "on", here is the Stuka, almost ready for decals.

 

[fubar57]

Geo

 

[meatloaf109]

Wow! The decals. Micro set has no effect on them. They are as thick as a piece of cellophane tape, which maybe what I will have to use to make them bend around the fuselage.

 

[Vic Balshaw]

Damn me Paul, that's no good. Hope you can find a solution, maybe a touch of UHU to help them along while setting.

 

[Wayne Little]

hope you get it sorted Paul!