**** DONE: 1/32 Junkers Ju.87c Stuka - Carrier aircraft GB

[meatloaf109]

I recall him saying sanding between 8 coats was a must. Mentioned the little hairy stuff popping up as well.

Can't wait to start building my F2b........ I think something has started here. Yah think?

I think you are right, I am calling this one a learning experience. I have another one waiting in the wings for later. Maybe my third entry in GB#16...

 

[Wurger]

Looking very nice Paul.

 

[KoJo]

Looking good Paul!

 

[Wayne Little]

Your a brave man Paul..keep at it mate!

 

[ccheese]

It's really looking good, Paul. The (either) clear dope/thinner mix or the Elmer's Glue/water mix will raise the little fuzzies, which must be sanded down, between coats. I use a well worn 400 grit or a new 800 grit. After 5 or 6 coats, it's usually ready for a color coat. Where the tissue is joined will feather out.

If you change your glue/water mix, I would go with more water, less glue.

Please.... no fingers through the tissue !

Charles

 

[Rogi]

Looks really good Paul

 

[Airframes]

Looking good so far Paul. For future use, if you can't get dope, then thinned gloss varnish (NOT acrylic)will work better than the glue mix. The latter, although it works, being water soluble, half the effort is negated each time a new coat is applied. The gloss varnish is nowhere near as good as proper dope (itself a 'heavier' varnish), but has a better shrinking power, to tighten the tissue, and will also reduce, to an extent, the paper fibres sticking up.

 

[mikewint]

Paul, looking good, if i'm not prying, why not get the clear dope? Espec if you are doing another balsa. If no local hobby shops it is available on line

 

[Gnomey]

Looks good so far Paul!

 

[meatloaf109]

Looking good so far Paul. For future use, if you can't get dope, then thinned gloss varnish (NOT acrylic)will work better than the glue mix. The latter, although it works, being water soluble, half the effort is negated each time a new coat is applied. The gloss varnish is nowhere near as good as proper dope (itself a 'heavier' varnish), but has a better shrinking power, to tighten the tissue, and will also reduce, to an extent, the paper fibres sticking up.

Good old fashioned varnish, I can get that. Thanks!

 

[meatloaf109]

Paul, looking good, if i'm not prying, why not get the clear dope? Espec if you are doing another balsa. If no local hobby shops it is available on line

I didn't think that it could be shipped, being flamable and all. I know that squadron doesn't ship glue anymore, I figured that it was the same.
And I have been extremely broke, so I thought that I could make thinned glue work. It's a learning experence, I sure won't use it again though! I am going to try Terry's suggestion if I can't get proper dope for the next one.

 

[meatloaf109]

Doing everything back-@ssward for some reason, I painted a coat of Testors rattle-can blue before I attatched the canopy. (Yes, blue. Remember this is a conjectural paint job, with the assumption being a commisioned Graf Zeppelin operating in the North Atlantic.) I will give it another coat and then mask for the splinter camo scheme in dark grey. Undersides will be RLM65 and a yellow nose and rudder. Patchy spots are where I sanded.

 

[Wayne Little]

Sweet Paul!

 

[Wurger]

 

[Airframes]

That's looking bazzing Paul. Not sure of the restrictions in the 'States, but in the UK, inland surface mail is allowed to carry items such as paints, varnish etc. I'd guess that if a mail order/on-line outlet lists the product, then they can ship it, and any shipping restrictions will probably be shown.
A little tip for the varnish, which might help a touch, but experiment first.
By adding talcum powder, the viscosity can be changed; a thick mix will provide the equivalent of sanding sealer, which, as the name suggests, is used to seal the grain, and then sanded. This is also used to achieve a perfectly smooth, polished surface when making male moulds from balsa (or other timbers), and in various viscosities, can also be a useful filler for small joints, depressions etc in plastic modelling.
By adding a small amount of talc to gloss varnish, this can produce a 'heavier' varnish similar too, but not exactly the same as dope, and can be used to seal the tissue.
Hope this helps.

 

[Crimea_River]

Hey Paul. Looking good. Although it's a conjectural scheme you're doing, I believe most German aircraft operating over water carried a two-tone green splinter scheme similar to 70/71 but slightly different. I'm away from my references now so don't have the right RLM numbers handy but someone may chime in with additional info.

 

[Rogi]

I would like to see a RLM Orange color on a Ju-87, Would be an interesting look *idea*

The blue looks very cool are you trying to simulate Blue RLM 24?

 

[ccheese]

I'm told that Pledge Future Floor Shine is also used to seal tissue and decals. I have never used it, tho.

Charles

 

[meatloaf109]

Hey Paul. Looking good. Although it's a conjectural scheme you're doing, I believe most German aircraft operating over water carried a two-tone green splinter scheme similar to 70/71 but slightly different. I'm away from my references now so don't have the right RLM numbers handy but someone may chime in with additional info.

Yeah, I'm not normally a "what-if" kind of guy. But this is just a fun build and I figured that if they got a carrier in commission sooner or later somebody would figure out that blues and greys were better over the water. Of course, being Germans, the yellow nose and rudder is a must.

 

[meatloaf109]

That's looking bazzing Paul. Not sure of the restrictions in the 'States, but in the UK, inland surface mail is allowed to carry items such as paints, varnish etc. I'd guess that if a mail order/on-line outlet lists the product, then they can ship it, and any shipping restrictions will probably be shown.
A little tip for the varnish, which might help a touch, but experiment first.
By adding talcum powder, the viscosity can be changed; a thick mix will provide the equivalent of sanding sealer, which, as the name suggests, is used to seal the grain, and then sanded. This is also used to achieve a perfectly smooth, polished surface when making male moulds from balsa (or other timbers), and in various viscosities, can also be a useful filler for small joints, depressions etc in plastic modelling.
By adding a small amount of talc to gloss varnish, this can produce a 'heavier' varnish similar too, but not exactly the same as dope, and can be used to seal the tissue.
Hope this helps.

Thank you, I will give it a shot on the next one!