Lot has happened, looking good!
**** DONE: 1/48 Hawker Typhoon 1B - Mediterranean Theater of Operations
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Catch22
Major
Looking great!
Lovely work so far!
Crimea_River
Marshal
Fine work John. For a scribing guide, I suggest you get yourself some Dymo tape, used for making labels. It's flexible enough to fit curved surfaces, stiff enough to provide a good edge to hold your scriber against, and, being tape, sticks to the surface so it doesn't move while you're scribing.
- Thread starter
- #65
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
OMG... I know what that is! I remember my parents having a label maker when I was a kid. And yes, I could see how that stuff would make a good scribing guide... will look into it!
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- Thread starter
- #66
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Just a few items to report from over the weekend. The prop has been finished. I used the hairspray method to add some minor chipping to the prop and spinner. Note the slight texture to the black on the prop near the base. The hairspray layer underneath the black paint reacts to water and can result in the surface coat texturing slightly as it lifts.
A primer coat (Mr Surfacer 1000 thinned 50/50 with Tamiya Acrylic Thinner) is applied to the Typhoon body to check the panel line work and identify imperfections. The starboard side car door is only temporary as I am planning to utilize the clear part and show the door open.
A primer coat (Mr Surfacer 1000 thinned 50/50 with Tamiya Acrylic Thinner) is applied to the Typhoon body to check the panel line work and identify imperfections. The starboard side car door is only temporary as I am planning to utilize the clear part and show the door open.
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Airframes
Benevolens Magister
B*ll*cks ! I went into town today, to get some modelling stuff, with 'Dymo' tape being one of the items needed (I've run out of it). I passed 'Ryman's' twice, and forgot all about the tape !
Another trip into rain-soaked Macc tomorrow then !
Thanks for the reminder !
Another trip into rain-soaked Macc tomorrow then !
Thanks for the reminder !
Crimea_River
Marshal
Nothing wrong with your work there John.
- Thread starter
- #69
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
After some more minor puttying and sanding, I decided to put on the canopy. Due to the shim that was placed between fuselage halves in front of the windscreen, a bit of putty work was needed at the base of the windscreen.
I am going to do some light chipping on the fuselage sides and wing roots so in preparation of the base metal, I laid down some gloss black in the appropriate areas.
I used Alclad White Aluminum as the metal finish. This particular shade of Alclad gives me the most trouble, often clogging the tip of my airbrush which requires constant cleaning during the shoot. I got terrible results at the wing root for some reason. My guess is that the stuff dries so fast (hence the constant tip clogs) that shooting a further distance from the surface results in this grainy finish?
Yuck... that's not going to work! I have two choices at this point... sand that finish down or try to wipe it clean with iso alcohol. I went with the former, which may not have been the best choice given that I had THREE coats (gray primer, black and Alclad) to deal with. Make sure you wear rubber gloves when doing this type of cleanup because you are bound to end up with fingerprints if you don't.
After the base metal finish is complete, it's given a liberal coat of hairspray that's allowed to dry. Preshading is next.
The bottom of this Typhoon calls for Azure Blue. I mixed this shade using an approximate 50/50 mix of Tamiya X-14 Sky Blue and XF-61 Light Blue. I used 40/60 mix to accentuate the control surfaces and the middle of various panels to give the finish a bit of texture. which turned out to be a very subtle effect... hardly noticeable.
I'll let this dry and tackle the top colors next.
I am going to do some light chipping on the fuselage sides and wing roots so in preparation of the base metal, I laid down some gloss black in the appropriate areas.
I used Alclad White Aluminum as the metal finish. This particular shade of Alclad gives me the most trouble, often clogging the tip of my airbrush which requires constant cleaning during the shoot. I got terrible results at the wing root for some reason. My guess is that the stuff dries so fast (hence the constant tip clogs) that shooting a further distance from the surface results in this grainy finish?
Yuck... that's not going to work! I have two choices at this point... sand that finish down or try to wipe it clean with iso alcohol. I went with the former, which may not have been the best choice given that I had THREE coats (gray primer, black and Alclad) to deal with. Make sure you wear rubber gloves when doing this type of cleanup because you are bound to end up with fingerprints if you don't.
After the base metal finish is complete, it's given a liberal coat of hairspray that's allowed to dry. Preshading is next.
The bottom of this Typhoon calls for Azure Blue. I mixed this shade using an approximate 50/50 mix of Tamiya X-14 Sky Blue and XF-61 Light Blue. I used 40/60 mix to accentuate the control surfaces and the middle of various panels to give the finish a bit of texture. which turned out to be a very subtle effect... hardly noticeable.
I'll let this dry and tackle the top colors next.
I am trying to remember John I had that problem with the flat black base from Alclad and Aaron Brooks I BELIEVE from memory mention heat(room) was to high.So I turned on the a/c got it cool it seems and the issue went away.
JavlinOne other thing this Floquil black primer is lacquer and must have a seriously fast drying primer for it was gelling on the forks of the Renegade airbrush and had to swap to and open faced Badger 150 and gelled off the needle some.I kept a Q-tip with thinner and a tissue with thinner to clean every minute or so.
Aaron Brooks It's looking great Kevin! And it must be kinda warm if the lacquer is building on gun tip. If not, you might try dropping the airpressure just a smidge.
http://www.ww2aircraft.net/forum/-1...48-38j-favorite-aircraft-time-gb-31933-5.html
JavlinOne other thing this Floquil black primer is lacquer and must have a seriously fast drying primer for it was gelling on the forks of the Renegade airbrush and had to swap to and open faced Badger 150 and gelled off the needle some.I kept a Q-tip with thinner and a tissue with thinner to clean every minute or so.
Aaron Brooks It's looking great Kevin! And it must be kinda warm if the lacquer is building on gun tip. If not, you might try dropping the airpressure just a smidge.
http://www.ww2aircraft.net/forum/-1...48-38j-favorite-aircraft-time-gb-31933-5.html
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- Thread starter
- #71
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
That's interesting Javlin... I'm working in the evenings in an unheated garage so it's quite cool here ins Southern California in December. Aaron Brooks also suggests lowering the air pressure and I've been doing the opposite so maybe that's a potential cure.
- Thread starter
- #73
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Yes, intentionally subtle. I think the panel work that I did on the P-47D was a bit heavy-handed. I lost sight of the post-camo work like the pastel wash, paint chipping, dry pastel brushing, etc. and put too many of my eggs into the pre-shading basket. I am telling myself, "yes it looks a bit unfinished now but that's because it is UNFINISHED!" We'll have to see how this one turns out but I am definitely going for a more subtle effect.
Looks good so far!
Crimea_River
Marshal
Had the same issue with my Alclad Dull Aluminum and I know it's not temperature related as I spray in my basement where it's quite cool. Pressure is a possibility.
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
I haven't used Alclad, but if a metallic paint is sprayed at too high a pressure, a rapid build-up of fluid can occur around the nozzle and needle tip. Many metallic paints and lacquers are relatively fast drying, due to the pigment and metal grains, so with such a build-up, clogging of the jet/nozzle will occur. A 'grainy' appearance to the sprayed surface is normally also a sign of high pressure.
Looking good so far.
Looking good so far.
fubar57
General
Great build John and nice fixes. Just bought me some Dymo tape myself(Finally got it right this time Andy). If you're interested...10 Rolls X Dymo 3D Embossing Tape Labels 9mm X 3M IN Blue Great Sales Freeship | eBay
Geo
Geo
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Crimea_River
Marshal
Well, that outta do ya for a while!
- Thread starter
- #79
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
A Very Happy Holiday season to all! Most of the Christmas hustle and bustle is just about over at our household. I've also got the next few days off so I should be able to get on with this build.
After the bottom has dried, I masked it off and painted the upper surfaces what is called Middle Stone. I used a 50/50 mixture of Tamiya XF-59 Desert Yellow and XF-60 Dark Yellow.
RAF camo patterns seem to be pretty hard edged so instead of free-handing the Dark Earth color, I used enlarged copies of the painting guide that comes with the Techmod decal sheet. I used bits of BluTack to attach the mask almost flush with the model surface.
The Dark Earth is Tamiya XF-52 Flat Earth. Fairly successful although there are some soft edges that need to be corrected. Also, the BluTack (which is technically a US-branded poster tack that happens to be blue) left impressions on the lighter brown. I'm assuming that it is simply moisture from the adhesive that will go away once a clear coat is applied.
Before I can clear coat the model in preparation of decaling, I have to do the chipping part of the hairspray process. I will do some more minor chipping after the decals are applied.
I used Alclad Aqua Gloss (which is similar to Future) for the gloss coat. It LOOKS like those little worm marks from the BluTack has been taken care of.
After the bottom has dried, I masked it off and painted the upper surfaces what is called Middle Stone. I used a 50/50 mixture of Tamiya XF-59 Desert Yellow and XF-60 Dark Yellow.
RAF camo patterns seem to be pretty hard edged so instead of free-handing the Dark Earth color, I used enlarged copies of the painting guide that comes with the Techmod decal sheet. I used bits of BluTack to attach the mask almost flush with the model surface.
The Dark Earth is Tamiya XF-52 Flat Earth. Fairly successful although there are some soft edges that need to be corrected. Also, the BluTack (which is technically a US-branded poster tack that happens to be blue) left impressions on the lighter brown. I'm assuming that it is simply moisture from the adhesive that will go away once a clear coat is applied.
Before I can clear coat the model in preparation of decaling, I have to do the chipping part of the hairspray process. I will do some more minor chipping after the decals are applied.
I used Alclad Aqua Gloss (which is similar to Future) for the gloss coat. It LOOKS like those little worm marks from the BluTack has been taken care of.
dneid
Staff Sergeant
Very nice work, John! It does seem that the clear coat dealt with the Blue Tack "staining"?
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