**** DONE: 1/48 Junkers Ju 52/3M - Jet/Recon/Transport GB
- Thread starter Vic Balshaw
- Start date
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Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Thanks Vic. I'm hoping to get back to the Czech Rep again this year (by road!), so I'll have a look for other titles if I get a chance, maybe have a look at Eduard and other companies too, on the way back!
- Thread starter
- #63
Vic Balshaw
Brigadier General
Is the Yugoslav Ju-52 in therehehe
Afraid not Igor, This book coveres the refurbishment of Ju 52/3m g2e, W.Nr 5489 which started life on the civil registry as D-AQUI in April 1936 and as a float plane named "Fritz Simon" with the Deutsch Lufthansa. In June 1936 it was purchased by Det Norske Luchtfahrtselskab before being requisitioned into the Luftwaffe some 4 years later (April 1940) when Germany invaded Norway.
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- Thread starter
- #64
Vic Balshaw
Brigadier General
Having finished the Meteor, it was time to take a serious look at this monster of a machine.
Taking in info from my references and looking at the detail provided in the kit, I've marked out areas where I was thinking of stripping away the side panels and opening doors and hatches. If it is not to much trouble, I would like your thoughts on this guys, will it be worthwhile, remember I'm looking at putting lights is as well where possible, will it be too much or have you any suggestions where other openings could be.
Taking in info from my references and looking at the detail provided in the kit, I've marked out areas where I was thinking of stripping away the side panels and opening doors and hatches. If it is not to much trouble, I would like your thoughts on this guys, will it be worthwhile, remember I'm looking at putting lights is as well where possible, will it be too much or have you any suggestions where other openings could be.
fubar57
General
Yikes, that is going to be some major hacking, Vic. This is gonna be cool.
Geo
Geo
A4K
Colonel
IMO it would look a bit much Vic, unless you deliberately want to display everything open... just my opinion.
(For my own birds - not for this GB - I'm just going to open the cargo doors on one, and one set of cowls on another, with engine under maintenance)
(For my own birds - not for this GB - I'm just going to open the cargo doors on one, and one set of cowls on another, with engine under maintenance)
agree with Evan, Vic think it would be better with only parts open that would be open on a real Ju52
ccheese
Member In Perpetuity
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
I agree too. With the four open doors/hatches - the entry/para door on the port side open, and the small door and split cargo hatch at the starboard rear, and the small door starboard front, I think this would be enough, although maybe open the cockpit roof hatch. With lights inside, this would show a lot, and also create a sense of depth, where details can be seen in part from one angle, and in part from other angles, such as through the top of the gun position, and through the bulkhead hatch of the gun position.
Also, the roof can be made removable, if the entire interior needs to be viewed.
Also, the roof can be made removable, if the entire interior needs to be viewed.
Crimea_River
Marshal
I'm with the guys. Oh and by the way, your fly is open.
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
And the pub is open .......vroooom!!
Good work so far Vic!
- Thread starter
- #73
Vic Balshaw
Brigadier General
My sincere thanks gentlemen for you input, rest assured I will heed your advice and only open up where there is a door or hatch, including the roof, which I may well leave as a removable part.
Having sorted that, may I also ask if anyone can advise on the best way to cut the clear canopy/cockpit plastic. This machine has a slide back hood to the cockpit windows and it would be good if I could slide this back, BUT cutting this brittle substance leaves me quaking in my boots.
Having sorted that, may I also ask if anyone can advise on the best way to cut the clear canopy/cockpit plastic. This machine has a slide back hood to the cockpit windows and it would be good if I could slide this back, BUT cutting this brittle substance leaves me quaking in my boots.
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Tape the cut lines to prevent damage from any slips, then mark the actual cut lines on the tape with a thin pencil. Use a thin-blade razor saw, and make each cut carefully and slowly. I'd need to see the actual panel to advise on the sequence, but, as the 'removed' panel is likely to be discarded and replaced with thinner, clear sheet, if necessary, diagonal cuts from corner to corner may simplify the process, and the problem of cutting at 90 degrees from the first cut.
If you can post a clear shot of the canopy part, and one with the area to be removed marked out, I can possibly explain better. I'm planning on doing this on my He111 canopy roof panel, but it can be done from the rear edge for each fore and aft cut, so a little easier.
If you can post a clear shot of the canopy part, and one with the area to be removed marked out, I can possibly explain better. I'm planning on doing this on my He111 canopy roof panel, but it can be done from the rear edge for each fore and aft cut, so a little easier.
- Thread starter
- #75
Vic Balshaw
Brigadier General
Terry, many thanks for that, I get the idea and will play with it slowly. In this instance though, I do need to retain the cut out piece, it being a slide back roof window. Pics enclosed for your info and I'm only going to attempt the tip sliding part.
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Is the rear part of the kit moulding 'fixed' - that is, not part of the opening hatch?
If so, and the hatch itself is isolated in the central area of the canopy moulding, as I think it is, then it'll be easier to drill holes at each corner of the area to be removed, and make the cuts from the holes.
The sliding part will have to be made from clear sheet, because a) the removed part will be far too thick to accurately represent the relatively thin sliding hatch of the original, and will 'sit' too high on the fuselage roof, looking way out of scale, and b) the easiest and most precise way of removing the required piece, without damaging the surrounding canopy part, will be to cut two diagonals, corner to corner, in the form of an 'X', then cut and remove one of the resulting 'V' shapes, which will allow easier access, into the aperture, to remove the other unwanted parts.
To do this, after drilling the corner holes, drill a larger hole in the center of the 'X', then cut the 'X'. A thin saw blade, or point of a scalpel, can then be inserted into the central hole, to pare back some of the plastic on any one of the 'V' sections, which will allow a cut to be made to one of the outer 'frame' lines, which in turn will then allow the first horizontal or vertical cuts to be made.
Hope this makes sense - sounds complex, but is much simpler in practice than it sounds. Needs a diagram or visual demo to show the actual simplicity.
If so, and the hatch itself is isolated in the central area of the canopy moulding, as I think it is, then it'll be easier to drill holes at each corner of the area to be removed, and make the cuts from the holes.
The sliding part will have to be made from clear sheet, because a) the removed part will be far too thick to accurately represent the relatively thin sliding hatch of the original, and will 'sit' too high on the fuselage roof, looking way out of scale, and b) the easiest and most precise way of removing the required piece, without damaging the surrounding canopy part, will be to cut two diagonals, corner to corner, in the form of an 'X', then cut and remove one of the resulting 'V' shapes, which will allow easier access, into the aperture, to remove the other unwanted parts.
To do this, after drilling the corner holes, drill a larger hole in the center of the 'X', then cut the 'X'. A thin saw blade, or point of a scalpel, can then be inserted into the central hole, to pare back some of the plastic on any one of the 'V' sections, which will allow a cut to be made to one of the outer 'frame' lines, which in turn will then allow the first horizontal or vertical cuts to be made.
Hope this makes sense - sounds complex, but is much simpler in practice than it sounds. Needs a diagram or visual demo to show the actual simplicity.
- Thread starter
- #77
Vic Balshaw
Brigadier General
Thanks again Terry, the clear plastic is quite thin and the back part of the canopy actually forms part of the fuselage, even so, I think I'll ponder this one for a while.
Even though I'm late to the party, agree with the previous comments Vic.
- Thread starter
- #79
Vic Balshaw
Brigadier General
This has got to be the most scary thing I've ever attempted in modelling. Feeling full of confidence and having a couple of hours to hand I decided to cut the sliding panels out of the canopy top. First up I decided that making its replacement was the first step, a simple process and one in which I could correct the error in the kit which shows to many panels in the slide, these came on later versions.
This done I masked and Dyno taped up the canopy, stuck it on a lump of Blu-Tack and as advised, drilled holes in the corners. Next came the scary bit, a slow methodical sawing, easier said than done as the small saw blades keep getting stuck on the plastic cuttings imbedded in the cut and the blade constantly needed some beeswax to smooth the cut. Scary stuff………………………………Anyway, it is done and now I can get down to the cutting out of doors and hatches.
This done I masked and Dyno taped up the canopy, stuck it on a lump of Blu-Tack and as advised, drilled holes in the corners. Next came the scary bit, a slow methodical sawing, easier said than done as the small saw blades keep getting stuck on the plastic cuttings imbedded in the cut and the blade constantly needed some beeswax to smooth the cut. Scary stuff………………………………Anyway, it is done and now I can get down to the cutting out of doors and hatches.
fubar57
General
Wise choice making the replacement first Vic. Well done.
Geo
Geo
