<-- **** DONE: 1/48 P-38J Hill's Angels - Twin Engined Aircraft of WWII

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They sure look the biz.
Got some for my Mossies and Lancaster, and looking forward to seeing how they look when fitted.

Andy, how do the prices compare to UK prices ? I can get some and send them over if you wish, just let me know what you need.
 
They look great John. I've got some Master Models gun barrels for a future project - how did you go about painting them?

I like to put primer over brass prior to paint but these are so small and finely detailed, I didn't want to put too many coats over them. I shot them with a base of Tamiya Gloss Black and then Alclad for the Metallic color. I can't remember but I think it was Polished Aluminum mixed with some Steel.

Ok... I'm ready for the next step, which will "salt chipping" or more appropriately, "salt fading". I want to fade the olive drab uppers but I want to also leave some wear patterns in the paint. It's a messy technique so I got prepared by draping a piece of recycled paper over the work surface to catch all of the excess salt.


After brushing on a coat of water using a large, soft paint brush, I sprinkle salt randomly over the wetted surface. Since I'll be spraying a lighter color, I've put more salt along the panel lines and less in the middle of each panel.


When the water is completely dry, I spray a highly dilute light grey over the upper surfaces.


After the salt is removed, you can see the effect that is left behind. Salt removal is a multi-part process. First, I remove the big chunks using a stiff bristled paint brush. I then brush water over the area to dissolve all of the remaining salt and then wipe up the moisture with a soft cloth. Dried salt turns white so you'll be able to see the spots you miss as the moisture dries.


The effect is quite stark but based on past experience, the effect will get toned down once a matte coat is applied.




Time to fix the landing gear. I've reattached the starboard main gear legs that came loose during the puttying/sanding process. I've also put in the nose landing gear legs.


Finally, this P-38 gets to stand on its own legs. Looks like I put in enough nose weights for the proper sit.
 
Very nice John, that effect looks like random stains, dirt patches, etc. I might give it a whirl on my Corsair which will be SW Pacific land-based similar to this one.
 
Thanks guys! The salt fading technique yields some cool results but the you have to be very careful with misting that lighter color. Even with a highly diluted grey, the effect I got was a little too much for my tastes and I am considering different ways of toning it down. I may try a little bit of dot oil filtering.

Moving on with some bits and pieces. The depressions for the lights on the bottom of the plane have been masked off and painted silver.



Lenses punched from clear acetate sheet are secured in place using Micro Krystal Klear.



Over on top, I've decided to remove the canopy masks. The seat and the armor backplate have not yet been put into place.


The seat and backplate are installed.



The starboard roll-up window is installed. Fit is nice and tight and I bonded it by a very light application of Tamiya Extra Thin at the joints. The Superscale decal sheet had smaller red NO STEP decals for the windows with finer text but they both broke on me. So I had to revert to the kit decals which were noticeably "coarser". Note all of the little bits of dust, micro hairs and paint chips... it's really hard to get rid of it after the salt fading process.



After spraying some exhaust stains from the turbocharger units, I plopped the turbochargers in to see how they look. I may beef up the stains.
 
Nice work John.
I studied the exhaust staining when I did my (still unfinished !) model, and found that they were mainly a sort of pinkish light brown shade, with a tinge of light bluish grey.
Not very clear in this photo, and since been increased in area, but you'll get the idea.


 

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