**** DONE: 1/48 P-47D Thunderbolt - Aircraft Nose Art GB.
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you in deep now Andy !!!! 
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- #123
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- #125
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Good stuff so far. And I agree about undercart etc - basic rule; any 'sticky out bit' which can be omitted until after painting, gloss coat, decals and finish coat, should be omitted.
Yep.. it's in Russian entirely.
But back to the white. If planning to make a model with D-day strips for instance, it is better to apply the white as the first colour. Of course it doesn't have be applied overall but at these areas where these strips have to be only. Then the entire area for a such markings , has to be masked. We have to do the same for yellow, white bands around a fuselage for example. The next step is to paint a camo spots etc... Having that done masking can be removed. As a result you get the white area ready for farther masking and applying the black colour. The way is always suggested, espcially for these white, yellow and red acrylic paints that don't coat a surface as good as those green, black or grey colours.
But back to the white. If planning to make a model with D-day strips for instance, it is better to apply the white as the first colour. Of course it doesn't have be applied overall but at these areas where these strips have to be only. Then the entire area for a such markings , has to be masked. We have to do the same for yellow, white bands around a fuselage for example. The next step is to paint a camo spots etc... Having that done masking can be removed. As a result you get the white area ready for farther masking and applying the black colour. The way is always suggested, espcially for these white, yellow and red acrylic paints that don't coat a surface as good as those green, black or grey colours.
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
I agree entirely. However, if the roughly painted, distemper finish of AEAF stripes is required, looking faded and worn, then use a similar sequence, but painting the white over the camouflage colours, as per the real aircraft, using one or two thin, patchy coats. This will allow a slight 'show through' of the tone of the colour(s) underneath, and extra wear and tear can be achieved by very small masks of 'Maskol', PVA or even grains of salt, sand or sugar.
I'm with Terry too. One note though... the camo colours have to be dry fully before applying the another one. I would say , dry as bone. I wouldn't believe the info that acrylic paints are fastdrying colours. It depends on the weather conditions and temperature. In my humble opinion 1 day is the minimum.
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- #130
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- #132
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Thinners can actually be used, on bare plastic, if applied sparingly, on a piece of soft cloth or cotton wool. Allow this to evaporate naturally, then wipe over with a clean, dry, soft cloth. For a painted surface, Wojtek has the answer.
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- #137
😳 No primer used on this one. Monthly modelling budget didnt stretch to a new tin this month and I wasn't waiting until October to start this build. Still the white was applied over the grey which went on perfect so I must have got some grease or oil on the grey surface to cause the reaction when applying the white.
Cheers Chris
Cheers Chris
Chris..
If there is the bare plastic only you can use a soft rag soaked with a thinner to grease the area. Could you tell me what kind of the white and thinner you use? What was the kind of the paint had applied before? Are these of the same type?
If there is the bare plastic only you can use a soft rag soaked with a thinner to grease the area. Could you tell me what kind of the white and thinner you use? What was the kind of the paint had applied before? Are these of the same type?
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- #139
Oh ... I understand now. No wonder the white got the reaction. There is a difference between these two paints in their solvents.
OK. I suggest cleaning the area with a soft rag soaked with the Tamiya thinner manually. When the thinnere is evaporated from the surface, wash the area with a rag soaked with warm water and some of detergent ( soap or a drop of dishwasher liquid ). Then again with warm but clear water and make the area dry. Mask the area for the white paint at its edges. And then spray the white. I think you can spray the Tamiya paint on the Humbrol one but not vice-versa. If it can you may correct the coat of the camo paints at the "borderline" with the white. But I recommend a test of it on another piece of plastc though.
OK. I suggest cleaning the area with a soft rag soaked with the Tamiya thinner manually. When the thinnere is evaporated from the surface, wash the area with a rag soaked with warm water and some of detergent ( soap or a drop of dishwasher liquid ). Then again with warm but clear water and make the area dry. Mask the area for the white paint at its edges. And then spray the white. I think you can spray the Tamiya paint on the Humbrol one but not vice-versa. If it can you may correct the coat of the camo paints at the "borderline" with the white. But I recommend a test of it on another piece of plastc though.
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