Vic Balshaw
Major General
Good on you Kevin, it's looking very neat.
**** DONE: 1/48 Republic P-47D - Mediterranean Theater of Operations
- Thread starter JKim
- Start date
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chris brown
Senior Airman
Your pics definitely show some wear on the cuffs. Carry on, she is looking great!
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Great stuff. I think I have diagrams of the tank plumbing somewhere - leave t with me, and I'll see what I can find and post tomorrow.
Crimea_River
Marshal
108 gallon tank connections shown here:
In this diagram from a P-47 manual, you can see the center-mount connections which you can match up to the diagram above.
I've not found a good pic from a P-47 but hope these help.
In this diagram from a P-47 manual, you can see the center-mount connections which you can match up to the diagram above.
I've not found a good pic from a P-47 but hope these help.
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Thanks Andy - saved me a search through my books.
Curtiss: "The cuff consist of a cast magnesium former and a trailing edge, over which is fitted a properly shaped aluminium sheet.
The former is clamped around the shank of the blade.
The sheet is attached to the former and to the trailing edge by screws.
The outer end of the cuff has a molded rubber chafing strip which insure a close, firm fit between the blade and cuff"
I think that rubber on the cuffs of hamilton propeller5p51) could be the "propeller fluid antifreeze shoes". They was glued to the cuff and along the leading edge of the prop blades. There was several grooves on his leading edge for distribute the anti-icing fluid along the blade. in this case, the markings on the cuff were under the rubber.
a great working on this p-47
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Totalize
Tech Sergeant
Super nice effort here. Love the work on the bombs and pylons.
Looking forward to seeing more.
Dave.
Looking forward to seeing more.
Dave.
Damn nice stuff...
- Thread starter
- #90
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Thanks for all of the input guys! Belly tank diagram is helpful but what is eluding me now is the fuselage connection point... there is no obvious port or mold marking that indicates a fuel line connection on the Tamiya kit.
Wow... that would be wonderful... exactly what I was looking for. Only need one of the two since it is for the center mount. I'll PM/email you my address right away.
Wow... that would be wonderful... exactly what I was looking for. Only need one of the two since it is for the center mount. I'll PM/email you my address right away.
- Thread starter
- #92
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
I have been working in frantic spurts. Long hours on the bench on some days and hardly any time on others. I guess lots of us are in the same boat as far as family/work obligations. I've gotten lots done so I'd like to share this progress report.
I got another new tool! This is a photoetch part bender by Small Shop. For the most part, I can get by using tweezers or a set of flat nose pliers but I've botched some PE parts that require a more precise bend like boxes and such. Not useful all the time but when it's needed, it really saves the day like for these tail wheel doors.
Ok... now I'm ready for painting. Like I said, I am going to attempt something new. I saw this over at the LSP forums by someone named Doogs(great modeler by the way) and he used the hairspray method on two layers to show a mixture of chromate and metal surfaces being revealed under the blue of his Corsair. I thought I'd do something similar since the archive photos show the 57th FG Thunderbolts showing both chromate green and metal chipping.
First step is to establish a gloss black gloss coat for the metal surfaces. Based on the wear I've seen in photos, I'm restricting this treatment to the wing roots, the fuselage sides near the cockpit and the lower rear fuselage.
Next is the metal finish which is Alclad Aircraft Aluminum in this case.
After letting that cure overnight, I give the metalized areas a coat or two of hairspray shot through an airbrush and then spray with chromate green.
The chromate green is then chipped away using a brush wetted with water. The water dissolves the hairspray between the chromate and metal, and the chromate flakes off into tiny chunks. You can also use a sharp toothpick to achieve slightly different looking results. It looks gnarly but remember that most of this work will lie undisturbed under the outer olive drab color.
Once the chromate chipping is done, the model is prepped for final painting. The chromate/metal layer is sealed with Alclad Clear Gloss. Hairspray is applied to the chipped areas to set up a 2nd layer of chipping... hopefully a random mix of chromate and metalized areas will be revealed when chipping is performed on the olive drab coat. I can now pre-shade the model as I normally do.
The multi-layer chipping experiment will continue soon!
I got another new tool! This is a photoetch part bender by Small Shop. For the most part, I can get by using tweezers or a set of flat nose pliers but I've botched some PE parts that require a more precise bend like boxes and such. Not useful all the time but when it's needed, it really saves the day like for these tail wheel doors.
Ok... now I'm ready for painting. Like I said, I am going to attempt something new. I saw this over at the LSP forums by someone named Doogs(great modeler by the way) and he used the hairspray method on two layers to show a mixture of chromate and metal surfaces being revealed under the blue of his Corsair. I thought I'd do something similar since the archive photos show the 57th FG Thunderbolts showing both chromate green and metal chipping.
First step is to establish a gloss black gloss coat for the metal surfaces. Based on the wear I've seen in photos, I'm restricting this treatment to the wing roots, the fuselage sides near the cockpit and the lower rear fuselage.
Next is the metal finish which is Alclad Aircraft Aluminum in this case.
After letting that cure overnight, I give the metalized areas a coat or two of hairspray shot through an airbrush and then spray with chromate green.
The chromate green is then chipped away using a brush wetted with water. The water dissolves the hairspray between the chromate and metal, and the chromate flakes off into tiny chunks. You can also use a sharp toothpick to achieve slightly different looking results. It looks gnarly but remember that most of this work will lie undisturbed under the outer olive drab color.
Once the chromate chipping is done, the model is prepped for final painting. The chromate/metal layer is sealed with Alclad Clear Gloss. Hairspray is applied to the chipped areas to set up a 2nd layer of chipping... hopefully a random mix of chromate and metalized areas will be revealed when chipping is performed on the olive drab coat. I can now pre-shade the model as I normally do.
The multi-layer chipping experiment will continue soon!
Crimea_River
Marshal
Wow, that's going to look great John.
- Thread starter
- #95
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Ok... let's keep going!
The preshading took lots of time due to the amount of surface detail that the Tamiya kit depicts. One thing I like about pre-shading is the ability to dial the effect back as far as you wish when the final colors are applied. For this kit, I am going to try and leave the panel effects on the more prominent side due to (1) the heavy wear/tear that these aircraft experienced and (2) the fact that this plane is virtually covered in insignias, stencils, and personal markings.
Neutral Gray (Tamiya XF53) is applied to the undersides. I am fighting my natural tendency to reduce the panel effects to the point of subtlety because I believe the effect will be greatly reduced once all of the decals go on.
I wanted to portray a fairly hard demarcation between the olive drab upper surfaces and the gray undersides so I utilized paper masks which are elevated slightly off the surface using bits of BluTack. After a few unsuccessful attempts at hand sketched masks, I resorted to scanning and enlarging the painting guide that comes with the Rising Decal set.
The Olive Drab is a 50/50 mixture of Tamiya XF62 and Gunze Sangyo H052. It's very important to have adequate lighting when painting. I spray indoors and will constantly shift my position in relation to the lighting to check my work from different lighting perspectives. Ideally, I will take the model outside and have a look. Naturally, there is some overspray and other mishaps that need to be corrected.
Once the olive drab has a chance to dry, we can start the chipping process. Ok... I can see a mixture of chromate green and aluminum as the chipping gets underway... seems to be working.
As the chipping progressed, I noticed some inconsistencies in terms of chipping behavior. Some areas of olive drab were lifted VERY gradually as I worked a wet brush gently over the area... almost a grain by grain posterizing effect. But others lifted off in fairly large bits and pieces. I was very careful to go very SLOWLY... it's almost impossible to retract your steps once you've gone this far.
Chipping done on the other side. I will augment the hairspray chipping with some brush applied silver paint but it will be very light.
The chipping process was very involved and time consuming since I went at it so slow and deliberately, panel by panel. Once the primary chipping was done, I switched gears and masked the yellow ID stripes on the wings and tail.
A yellow stripe on the tail went a little too far onto the rudder... should be easy to fix.
The red nose ring is painted next. You can see that the tail stripe has been corrected.
Bit by bit, the masking comes off. I can finally take a look at how the engine looks housed in the cowling.
After a bit of brush applied paint chipping, the model will be clear coated in advance of decaling.
The preshading took lots of time due to the amount of surface detail that the Tamiya kit depicts. One thing I like about pre-shading is the ability to dial the effect back as far as you wish when the final colors are applied. For this kit, I am going to try and leave the panel effects on the more prominent side due to (1) the heavy wear/tear that these aircraft experienced and (2) the fact that this plane is virtually covered in insignias, stencils, and personal markings.
Neutral Gray (Tamiya XF53) is applied to the undersides. I am fighting my natural tendency to reduce the panel effects to the point of subtlety because I believe the effect will be greatly reduced once all of the decals go on.
I wanted to portray a fairly hard demarcation between the olive drab upper surfaces and the gray undersides so I utilized paper masks which are elevated slightly off the surface using bits of BluTack. After a few unsuccessful attempts at hand sketched masks, I resorted to scanning and enlarging the painting guide that comes with the Rising Decal set.
The Olive Drab is a 50/50 mixture of Tamiya XF62 and Gunze Sangyo H052. It's very important to have adequate lighting when painting. I spray indoors and will constantly shift my position in relation to the lighting to check my work from different lighting perspectives. Ideally, I will take the model outside and have a look. Naturally, there is some overspray and other mishaps that need to be corrected.
Once the olive drab has a chance to dry, we can start the chipping process. Ok... I can see a mixture of chromate green and aluminum as the chipping gets underway... seems to be working.
As the chipping progressed, I noticed some inconsistencies in terms of chipping behavior. Some areas of olive drab were lifted VERY gradually as I worked a wet brush gently over the area... almost a grain by grain posterizing effect. But others lifted off in fairly large bits and pieces. I was very careful to go very SLOWLY... it's almost impossible to retract your steps once you've gone this far.
Chipping done on the other side. I will augment the hairspray chipping with some brush applied silver paint but it will be very light.
The chipping process was very involved and time consuming since I went at it so slow and deliberately, panel by panel. Once the primary chipping was done, I switched gears and masked the yellow ID stripes on the wings and tail.
A yellow stripe on the tail went a little too far onto the rudder... should be easy to fix.
The red nose ring is painted next. You can see that the tail stripe has been corrected.
Bit by bit, the masking comes off. I can finally take a look at how the engine looks housed in the cowling.
After a bit of brush applied paint chipping, the model will be clear coated in advance of decaling.
Last edited:
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Nice !
Vic Balshaw
Major General
Wow...........!
N4521U
Colonel
Yes, WOW.
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