- Thread starter
- #181
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
So true! And I've actually been poking some of those slower drying spots of CA glue with my finger, which seem to dry faster once touched.
**** DONE: GB-36 1/32 Bf109G-10 Erla - Axis Manufactured Aircraft of WWII
- Thread starter JKim
- Start date
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Great work so far John!
Accelerator helps get moving quicker, although in some instances I prefer the longer road, using stretched sprue, gives the best blended look but you gotta wait till the glue dries fully.....
- Thread starter
- #184
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
The Erla G-10 build continues although the busy holidays are keeping many of us from spending too much time on the workbench, including me! I've put a coat of primer (Mr Surfacer 1000 thinned with Tamiya Lacquer Thinner) on the G-10 prior to starting the painting. As usual, the primer revealed a lot of little errors that need correction before I start painting so I've been addressing those.
I don't always primer the entire model before painting but on my last build, I experienced some paint lifting during the masking of the markings and I wanted to avoid that here. One thing I didn't like about the primer coat is that it seemed to be burying the rivet detail little by little. I backed off on the application of the primer so that's why it looks a bit splotchy. I've decided to carefully re-do the rivets which is taking a lot of time. It's a pain trying to wheel the Rivet-R exactly over the existing holes.
So I'm inching towards the paint stage of this build. Hopefully, I'll be able to get some paint on within the next few days.
Happy Holidays to all!
I don't always primer the entire model before painting but on my last build, I experienced some paint lifting during the masking of the markings and I wanted to avoid that here. One thing I didn't like about the primer coat is that it seemed to be burying the rivet detail little by little. I backed off on the application of the primer so that's why it looks a bit splotchy. I've decided to carefully re-do the rivets which is taking a lot of time. It's a pain trying to wheel the Rivet-R exactly over the existing holes.
So I'm inching towards the paint stage of this build. Hopefully, I'll be able to get some paint on within the next few days.
Happy Holidays to all!
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Certainly looking good John - have great Christmas.
Crimea_River
Marshal
Good work John. Are the slats loose? The look neither all the way in nor all the way out.
turbo
Staff Sergeant
Nice one John, can't wait for the paint! Have a great break 
- Thread starter
- #189
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Thanks guys!
The slats are being held by Blu-Tack so yeah they are just sorta hanging as I want them in place for painting but will be glued in later.
The slats are being held by Blu-Tack so yeah they are just sorta hanging as I want them in place for painting but will be glued in later.
Looks great so far John!
Crimea_River
Marshal
Thanks John.
- Thread starter
- #192
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Thanks for checking in guys!
The re-riveting effort is now complete. I pretty much did the whole model to keep the rivets consistent.
With the re-riveting done, I can finally move on to painting. I'm going to do some hairspray chipping at the wing roots so I'll put some silver down first. I've had trouble getting the hairspray to stick evenly to a glossy surface so I'm going to put the silver (Tamiya AS-12) on a flat black base.
Two coats of hairspray on the silver with a couple of hours drying time between each coat and I'm moving on to preshading. My first preshading step is to do the panel lines.
After the panel line work, I fill in all of the spaces in between with a fine black mottle. This is something I started doing after I saw the results of black-basing. I guess it is the inverse of black basing but serves the same purpose: to give the camo layer a bit of depth and variance.
It looks a bit odd now but as you'll see later, it yields a nice, subtle effect, which is very easy to control using highly-thinned paints. Since it takes a bit of time, I often take breaks. I got pretty far in one session on the G-10, managing to finish the bottom, tail and fuselage.
Although it looks ragged, the mottle finish should be smooth as I am using very thin paint (about 5:1 thinner to paint ratio). Long spray sessions will lead to some spitting of the airbrush but I just smear down any errant blobs of paint. Prior to painting, I'll inspect the mottle and remove any missed paint blobs with Micromesh.
I've stopped here for the night. Tomorrow I'll finish the preshading on the top of the wings and its on to the next step in the painting process.
The re-riveting effort is now complete. I pretty much did the whole model to keep the rivets consistent.
With the re-riveting done, I can finally move on to painting. I'm going to do some hairspray chipping at the wing roots so I'll put some silver down first. I've had trouble getting the hairspray to stick evenly to a glossy surface so I'm going to put the silver (Tamiya AS-12) on a flat black base.
Two coats of hairspray on the silver with a couple of hours drying time between each coat and I'm moving on to preshading. My first preshading step is to do the panel lines.
After the panel line work, I fill in all of the spaces in between with a fine black mottle. This is something I started doing after I saw the results of black-basing. I guess it is the inverse of black basing but serves the same purpose: to give the camo layer a bit of depth and variance.
It looks a bit odd now but as you'll see later, it yields a nice, subtle effect, which is very easy to control using highly-thinned paints. Since it takes a bit of time, I often take breaks. I got pretty far in one session on the G-10, managing to finish the bottom, tail and fuselage.
Although it looks ragged, the mottle finish should be smooth as I am using very thin paint (about 5:1 thinner to paint ratio). Long spray sessions will lead to some spitting of the airbrush but I just smear down any errant blobs of paint. Prior to painting, I'll inspect the mottle and remove any missed paint blobs with Micromesh.
I've stopped here for the night. Tomorrow I'll finish the preshading on the top of the wings and its on to the next step in the painting process.
Crimea_River
Marshal
Nice work John.
- Thread starter
- #195
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Thanks guys!
I finished up the pre-shading on the wings.
Ok... so the preshading is finished and I can start painting. The bottom first, RLM 76, which is a mix of Tamiya paints. The key to this preshading technique is to use highly thinned colors for the camo. My current thinner to paint ratio is about 4:1. For Tamiya and Gunze acrylics, I think with 91% iso alcohol. The paint has to be built up using successive layers so the airbrush must be kept moving constantly to avoid pooling. Starting at the starboard wing tip, I work inwards small sections at a time.
I like a subtle effect but keep in mind that contrasting colors and black and white crosses will tend to crush the effect.
The thinned paint goes on very smoothly and is quite transparent which makes it easier to dial the pre-shading effect to your preference.
Uniformity is not necessary and sometimes avoided. Around the engine area, I like less paint and more black preshading to show through.
Panel by panel, I work my way backward toward the tail.
The RLM 76 is finished and it is time for the next color. It's either going to be the wing root colors or the tail.
I finished up the pre-shading on the wings.
Ok... so the preshading is finished and I can start painting. The bottom first, RLM 76, which is a mix of Tamiya paints. The key to this preshading technique is to use highly thinned colors for the camo. My current thinner to paint ratio is about 4:1. For Tamiya and Gunze acrylics, I think with 91% iso alcohol. The paint has to be built up using successive layers so the airbrush must be kept moving constantly to avoid pooling. Starting at the starboard wing tip, I work inwards small sections at a time.
I like a subtle effect but keep in mind that contrasting colors and black and white crosses will tend to crush the effect.
The thinned paint goes on very smoothly and is quite transparent which makes it easier to dial the pre-shading effect to your preference.
Uniformity is not necessary and sometimes avoided. Around the engine area, I like less paint and more black preshading to show through.
Panel by panel, I work my way backward toward the tail.
The RLM 76 is finished and it is time for the next color. It's either going to be the wing root colors or the tail.
Crimea_River
Marshal
Just noticed something a bit odd John and not sure if you want to address it now. I've never seen the trailing edge of the wing root fairing squared off like that. I always thought it ended in a sharp edge.
turbo
Staff Sergeant
Great start to the painting John 
Great work so far John!
- Thread starter
- #200
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Merry Christmas to all! I hope everyone is warm and happy this Christmas Day.
After painting the light blue, I decided to do the upper wings and masked off the appropriate areas, including the wavy demarcation on the wing leading edge.
I've deviated from my normal Tamiya acrylics to try some of the Mr. Hobbby Aqueous paints. I'm treating them the same as Tamiya, using isopropyl alcohol to thin. First is the Dark Grey RLM 75. I'm using the instructions from an EagleCal G-10 Erla decal set as a guide for the camo pattern on the wings.
After the Grey, the Dark Green RLM 83 is sprayed on.
The wing camo painting is complete and I can take off the masking.
I'm going to attack the camo, not by color but by area. That's why I didn't spray the fuselage and horizontal stabs with the RLM 75 and 83. I'm not sure why I'm doing it this way but it feels right.
The tail is next... I'm going to do hard-edged RLM 83 spots on a RLM 75 background so the green goes on first for this step. Notice that I've lost the tab that I made for the aerial... I have no idea when it got knocked off. I'll worry about it when painting is finished.
After painting the light blue, I decided to do the upper wings and masked off the appropriate areas, including the wavy demarcation on the wing leading edge.
I've deviated from my normal Tamiya acrylics to try some of the Mr. Hobbby Aqueous paints. I'm treating them the same as Tamiya, using isopropyl alcohol to thin. First is the Dark Grey RLM 75. I'm using the instructions from an EagleCal G-10 Erla decal set as a guide for the camo pattern on the wings.
After the Grey, the Dark Green RLM 83 is sprayed on.
The wing camo painting is complete and I can take off the masking.
I'm going to attack the camo, not by color but by area. That's why I didn't spray the fuselage and horizontal stabs with the RLM 75 and 83. I'm not sure why I'm doing it this way but it feels right.
The tail is next... I'm going to do hard-edged RLM 83 spots on a RLM 75 background so the green goes on first for this step. Notice that I've lost the tab that I made for the aerial... I have no idea when it got knocked off. I'll worry about it when painting is finished.
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