Crimea_River
Marshal
Very nice.
**** DONE: GB-36 1/32 Bf109G-10 Erla - Axis Manufactured Aircraft of WWII
- Thread starter JKim
- Start date
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turbo
Staff Sergeant
Looking good John! 
Markings and weathering perhaps including a filter will bring the colours together.
Markings and weathering perhaps including a filter will bring the colours together.- Thread starter
- #223
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Gracia amigos! It's time to paint the black tulip on the nose of this G-10. I have a set of Montex masks. It looks like they were designed to be used prior to the camo painting. And I was unsure as to how they would fit on the AMUR Reaver nose piece. So... I decided to mask it manually. They are just straight lines so it should be pretty straightforward.
First, I wrapped a piece of flexible white Tamiya tape around the nose to mark where the tulip points would end. This would ensure some consistency in the masking. Using the kit instructions as a guide, I marked the tulip points on the tape.
Again, using the kit instructions as a guide, I place thin strips of yellow Tamiya tape. I can use the panel line closest to the end of the nose as a reference line for the inner points of the tulip.
The tulip is masked one triangle at a time. I didn't care if the tulip triangles were identical in shape but I tried to keep everything symmetrical.
After the outer edges of the tulip are masked, you have two choices on how to paint it. You can either put on the white first and mask the white edges using uniformly thin strips of paint butted up against the first tulip mask. I thought it'd be easier to do the opposite, which is to paint the black first and then mask off the black areas. So the black is sprayed first. I tried to keep the spray pattern towards the nose to avoid a black edge to the white trim.
After the black paint is allowed to dry, I masked off the white trim areas. This was a bit trickier than first assumed as the black paint made it difficult to see the edges of the mask demarcation.
The white is sprayed in the opposite direction as the black, towards the tail. I wanted to "force" the paint into the corners of the mask, again, to avoid a black edge.
The masking is removed to reveal the lovely tulip markings... plus some nasty paint lifting!
The starboard side is not so bad.
I'll let that dry before I attempt to repair the paint lift. Since the repair areas are so small, I can just use small strips of yellow Tamiya tape. I de-tack the tape as much as possible to reduce the possibility of further damage.
Here is the tulip after corrections have been made. There is a slight remnant of black edging to the white trim but given the propensity of this area to be damaged by masking, I think I'll leave it alone.
First, I wrapped a piece of flexible white Tamiya tape around the nose to mark where the tulip points would end. This would ensure some consistency in the masking. Using the kit instructions as a guide, I marked the tulip points on the tape.
Again, using the kit instructions as a guide, I place thin strips of yellow Tamiya tape. I can use the panel line closest to the end of the nose as a reference line for the inner points of the tulip.
The tulip is masked one triangle at a time. I didn't care if the tulip triangles were identical in shape but I tried to keep everything symmetrical.
After the outer edges of the tulip are masked, you have two choices on how to paint it. You can either put on the white first and mask the white edges using uniformly thin strips of paint butted up against the first tulip mask. I thought it'd be easier to do the opposite, which is to paint the black first and then mask off the black areas. So the black is sprayed first. I tried to keep the spray pattern towards the nose to avoid a black edge to the white trim.
After the black paint is allowed to dry, I masked off the white trim areas. This was a bit trickier than first assumed as the black paint made it difficult to see the edges of the mask demarcation.
The white is sprayed in the opposite direction as the black, towards the tail. I wanted to "force" the paint into the corners of the mask, again, to avoid a black edge.
The masking is removed to reveal the lovely tulip markings... plus some nasty paint lifting!
The starboard side is not so bad.
I'll let that dry before I attempt to repair the paint lift. Since the repair areas are so small, I can just use small strips of yellow Tamiya tape. I de-tack the tape as much as possible to reduce the possibility of further damage.
Here is the tulip after corrections have been made. There is a slight remnant of black edging to the white trim but given the propensity of this area to be damaged by masking, I think I'll leave it alone.
- Thread starter
- #224
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Before I move on to the markings, I want to work on the tail. I apply a mottle of light blue RLM 76 over the hard spots.
We'll all that work dry before we start with the markings.
We'll all that work dry before we start with the markings.
Crimea_River
Marshal
Great job!
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Yep, very nicely done.
Wow John, just wow 
- Thread starter
- #231
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Thanks guys! On to the markings. I'm using the Montex masks for these. I really like the Montex masks. The vinyl material is flexible enough to conform to the curved wings and fuselage but stiff enough not to distort too much when adjusting the placement. The vinyl is semi-clear, which really aids in placement. I like to "frame" the mask with small pieces of paper. This makes the mask easier to handle.
The single-color crosses are the easiest... simply place the single mask in the correct location, spray the color on and remove the mask. Multi-color masks and outline masks are a little bit trickier and require VERY careful placement of the interior masks in relation to the outer masks. Note that I did not use the paper framing technique on the chevron masks. I had them on initially but they were getting in the way, not letting the mask conform to the fuselage curvature.
The masked markings consisted of the fuselage and wing crosses and the chevrons. There were no masks for the swastika so those will go on as a decal.
After the markings, the model is given a clear gloss coat to seal all of the painting.
The single-color crosses are the easiest... simply place the single mask in the correct location, spray the color on and remove the mask. Multi-color masks and outline masks are a little bit trickier and require VERY careful placement of the interior masks in relation to the outer masks. Note that I did not use the paper framing technique on the chevron masks. I had them on initially but they were getting in the way, not letting the mask conform to the fuselage curvature.
The masked markings consisted of the fuselage and wing crosses and the chevrons. There were no masks for the swastika so those will go on as a decal.
After the markings, the model is given a clear gloss coat to seal all of the painting.
turbo
Staff Sergeant
Looking great John I love those Montex insignia masks, so much better than decals.
I love those Montex insignia masks, so much better than decals.
Crimea_River
Marshal
Hope to be making my own now that I have a digital cutter. I need to find the proper vinyl material though.
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
That's looking the biz John.
- Thread starter
- #236
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Decaling is finished. The kit decals are very good. Accurate, thin and reacts favorably to decal solution (Solvaset worked better than Microsol). The only thing I didn't like about the kit decals are the flat finish... I prefer satin or gloss.
The decals are sealed with a clear gloss in preparation for the next step: WEATHERING!
The decals are sealed with a clear gloss in preparation for the next step: WEATHERING!
Done real Good John...!
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Nice !
Crimea_River
Marshal
Looks great.
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