**** DONE: GB-36 1/32 Bf109G-10 Erla - Axis Manufactured Aircraft of WWII (1 Viewer)

[mikewint]

John, very impressive work on that tulip. Tamiya masking tape is very sticky and I've had similar problems with it pulling off paint. While I still use the Tamiya on bare plastic if I have to put tape on paint I've shifted to the Blue painters tape. It can be had in various grades of "sticky". The "gentle" works very well as does the "Clean Release". Another type of tape that works well is "Drafting Tape" used to hold down paper to a drafting table then pull off the paper without tearing the paper.
I've seen those stencils and yours look very very nice. Beyond my skill level...decals and lots of -set and -sol.

 

[javlin]

Looking the Biz John

 

[Gnomey]

Great work so far John!

 

[JKim]

Thanks so much for the comments! Happy New Year everyone... can't believe it is already 2018!

The gloss coat has sealed the camo, markings and decals so we are ready for weathering. The first step is to give the model a wash. A misnomer if there ever was one since the objective is to dirty up the plane, not clean it! The wash also serves another important purpose in my eyes. I want remove the 3D aspects of the panel lines and rivets. In other words, I want to convert the physical grooves and holes on the model into lines and dots or at least fool the eye into thinking it is seeing lines and dots, which is what the panel wash will do. I believe this "flattening" effects helps to unify the model's surface into a more substantial object.

I make my own liquid washes from pastel chalk, water and a drop of dishwashing soap. Being water-based, this wash is very safe on most finishes and can be wiped off completely if necessary, even from a flat coat.

Here is the bottom of the wing, before the wash is applied.

The wash is applied by brush into all of the rivet lines, panel lines and any other raised or recessed detail.

Let this dry completely. If you get impatient and start wiping before the wash completely dries, you'll be removing the wash from the areas where you want it to stay. You can tell the wash is dry as it develops a totally flat finish. Using a lightly damped piece of paper towel, I wipe the wash off the model, leaving the dried liquid in all of the nooks and crannies. Initially, I try to keep my strokes perpendicular to any panel lines but the finishing strokes should be in the same direction as the air flow.

I like to work in areas as it is easy to lose track of the wash applications. The last thing you want is to spray your final clear coat onto an area that you forgot to wipe.

I use a lighter color wash to treat the black tulip area on the nose.

Make sure you inspect the model carefully during this process for stray fingerprints, unrealistic streaks and any areas that may have been missed. If you are using a paper towel like me, make sure you wipe or brush the model off since paper towels can leave fibers behind.

The wash effect will vary on the contrast between the wash color and the surrounding color. On the lighter RLM 76 surfaces, I used a dark brown wash but I'll use a bit darker wash with more black on the darker RLM 75/83.

 

[JKim]

The pastel wash is wrapped up.

After the model is wiped with a clean cloth, it is given a flat coat. First the bottom...

After the bottom dries, I'll flat coat the top.

 

[JKim]

The flat coat has been applied to the top. For this build, I've used Model Master Flat Clear Lacquer.

The weathering will continue with some post-shading and maybe some other fun stuff.

 

[parsifal]

that is just magical john. Happy New year by the way.

Can I ask if in your opinion this method for bringing out surface detail that you use would work with 1/72 scale and also onto acylics. With the acrylics, I would think a pre-seal might be advisable.....what is your advice?

Also you say you apply with a paper towel. At the smaller scale, might not it be wise to use a Q tip? And do you just wipe off the excess?

Sorry in advance for the million questions.........

 

[Crimea_River]

Beauty John.

Michael, no reason it shouldn't work with acrylics. The wash mostly water and a bit of soap.

 

[Wurger]

 

[JKim]

Thanks for the comments guys!

John, very impressive work on that tulip. Tamiya masking tape is very sticky and I've had similar problems with it pulling off paint. While I still use the Tamiya on bare plastic if I have to put tape on paint I've shifted to the Blue painters tape. It can be had in various grades of "sticky". The "gentle" works very well as does the "Clean Release". Another type of tape that works well is "Drafting Tape" used to hold down paper to a drafting table then pull off the paper without tearing the paper.
I've seen those stencils and yours look very very nice. Beyond my skill level...decals and lots of -set and -sol.

Thanks for the tips on tape! I've also been using Post-Its for masking.

that is just magical john. Happy New year by the way.

Can I ask if in your opinion this method for bringing out surface detail that you use would work with 1/72 scale and also onto acylics. With the acrylics, I would think a pre-seal might be advisable.....what is your advice?

Also you say you apply with a paper towel. At the smaller scale, might not it be wise to use a Q tip? And do you just wipe off the excess?

Sorry in advance for the million questions.........

Thanks Michael... Happy New Year to you too! I don't work in 1/72 but I think this method work very well. I am using Tamiya/Gunze (Mr Hobby) acrylics and I like to do the wash over a gloss coat.

The wash mixture is applied with a paint brush. After the mixture is dry on the model, I wipe it off with small pieces of damp paper towel. The towel will get soiled as it picks up the excess wash so I'll re-fold and flip the towel over before throwing it away and starting with a new piece.

 

[mikewint]

been using Post-Its for masking

Ditto John especially when I want to shield the paint behind from what I'm spraying from overspray. The only drawback is their rather smallish size and zero flexibility. Going back to masking tape for a bit. If you have a paint store near you that sells to professional house painters you will find that they sell various grades of masking tape rated by how long they can be left in place anywhere from 1 - 3 - 7 - 14 - 30 - 60 days. The longer the time the less tacky will be the tape so the 60 day would be the least tacky. Drafting tape can be tough to find I found some at Hobby Lobby. I keep mine in double zipper lock freezer plastic bags to keep it from drying out.

 

[Torch]

Simply marvelous...

 

[parsifal]

Thanks John, iused the method on my Raiden last night. Its 1/48 scale. worked a treat.

Thanks for the explanation.

 

[Wayne Little]

Awesome John...!

 

[Gnomey]

Looks great so far John!

 

[JKim]

Thanks so much for the comments guys! I'm at a point where I need some prolonged time on the bench to power through some weathering but it might be a few days til I get that opportunity. As of now, I've just STARTED on a bit of the post-shading work, including adding the exhaust stains. The post-shading is done by spraying a very watery mixture of brownish-black along panel lines and other recessed areas.

The panel line post-shading is kept super subtle... I just want a hint of brown to give the impression of dirt wear along the seams. I apply heavier amounts around the engine, the exhaust trail and also on the bottom aft of the oil cooler.

I'll be back in a couple of days to continue the weathering.

 

[Wayne Little]

 

[Wurger]

 

[fubar57]

Great paint work

 

[mikewint]

Very very nice