**** DONE: GB-36 1/32 Me262A-1a - Axis Manufactured Aircraft of WWII

[T Bolt]

Very nice Wayne

 

[turbo]

Nice Wayne!

 

[Vic Balshaw]

Good stuff Wayne.

 

[Gnomey]

Looks great so far Wayne!

 

[Wayne Little]

Have added the wingtip lights after drilling them from the inside surface and adding the red and green colours, then cleaned up the edges and did some polishing to improve the look....with that done over past day or two it was time to splash the first stage of paint. Wayne's RLM 76 mix sprayed over half the bird today...

 

[Wurger]

 

[mikewint]

Impressive lights, Wayne. How do?

 

[Crimea_River]

Mike, get a piece of clear sprue and square the faces so it fits the opening in the wing. Drill a small hole in the inner face, making sure not to go deep. Dab red or green paint in the hole, let dry. Remove excess paint on the inner face then glue the sprue to the wing - I use CA for this. Once tightly bonded, file the clear sprue to a rough shape to follow the wing contour, then sand with progressively finer paper or micromesh pads until the lens has the correct shape. Final polishing followed by some brushed on Future and you're done.

Now if only I can remember to do this BEFORE I paint the model....

 

[mikewint]

Thank you Sir, a painted hole!!! Imagine that, it looks like a bulb, I would have never guessed it was a painted hole. The polishing sounds like a real PIA though it is a small part. Yours appears crystal clear in the pics
One last thing. CA on clear??? I've had CA fumes cause my clear parts to get frosted which is why I've switched to Testors Clear Parts glue.

 

[Gnomey]

Great work so far Wayne!

 

[Vic Balshaw]

Each to his own Mike, I tend to use a canopy glue very similar to PVA. I have one called "Formula 560" and another called "Gator's Grip", probably the same stuff.

 

[turbo]

Great work as always Wayne

 

[Wayne Little]

Thanks Guys.

And Andy described it perfectly Mike.

 

[Airframes]

Good stuff Wayne.
Mike, Andy has described the process, and it really is simple to do. Although Kirby uses liquid cement to attach the clear sprue, most use CA, as the bond needs to be strong for the filing and sanding.
The CA does not affect the clear sprue, as it is a solid 'lump', and the filing and sanding is not hard to do, as clear sprue sands and polishes much easier than 'solid' plastic. I normally do the final polishing with 'T-Cut', a car body colour restorer, but metal polish, or even toothpaste, works just as well.
The entire process, to make two wing-tip lights, fitted, and finished, takes around 90 minutes - and that's with my knackered hands.

And back to the studio ....................

 

[mikewint]

Probably take me 3 times as long and I'd probably sand off the entire wing-tip. Tis impressive work to say the least

 

[Wayne Little]

Finished the RLM 76 and started some of the RLM82....

 

[Wurger]

 

[al49]

Very nice work so far, as usual!!!

 

[Crimea_River]

Agree.

 

[turbo]

Nice start on the paint Wayne