**** DONE: GB-36 1/72 BF 109E-4 - Axis Manufactured Aircraft of WWII

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sprayed a protective hardcoat over the engine cover after applying the XF61 deep green to it. tomorrow I can mask over the bit I want to keep and apply that dark grey which I'm yet to work what I should use. its a darker grey I know, but which is the best from tamiya to use. I might sneak over and have a look at the colour palette Terry has used.....,

After I sprayed the engine canopy, I put it aside and went to work on the cabin again. Airfix painting instructions say to use Humbrol 31 (slate grey as the base colour. They say to use the same colour on the lower fuselage . that's the same paint as ive concocted yesterday. I'm still abit doubtful, but I followed the instructions this time.

After I had applied this base coat, and let it dry, I first painted the bucks in Aluminium. Might seem a strange way to paint the harness moulding, but so far its worked a treat. Lastly ive applied the fabric colour for the harness itself. Ive chosen to use a Tamiya colour called Deck Tan for the mainpart of the harness. So far everything is pretty good I think. Will post photos tomorrow.

I'm still not done with the the pilot seat.underneath the harness there are glimpses here and there of what looks for all the world like a seat cover, or cushion. ive no idea what colour ro apply to tjis element,but was thinking a dark grey or even aleather like red brown colour. But suggestions would be very welcome at this point.

That's where I stopped for the evening.its pretty late, but at least its cooler at this time


Tomorrow I should be able to finish spraying the canopy, and mount the MG17 stubs,as well as finish painting the seat.
 
Michael, you need to use either the RLM 02 or RLM 66 for the cockpit interior. The suggested Humbrol colour for the RLM 02 is the paint no.84. The RLM 66 is suggested to be the Humbrol 67. The difference between these twa colours is the tone. The RLM 02 Grungrau is the green-grey paint of slightly brownish tinge while the RLM 66 Schwarzgrau was a black-grey one. It was disscussed many times which of them should be used for planes in 1940. because that year was the time the RLM 66 was introduced. However it seems that the brand-new Bf 109Es could have the colour applied for the cockpits while these earlier still had the RLM 02 there. For your model I would suggest the RLM 02 though. Here you are both of them as the colour samples. Please note that the RLM 02 was also used for the top camo spots , wheel bays and landing gear legs often.

RLM 02
rlm02.jpg


RLM 66
rlm66.jpg
 
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Don't use straight XF22 for RLM 02. It's too dark. See my mix suggestions.

Also, I don't understand what this dark grey is that you are talking about on the engine cowl Michael. There are only 3 basic camo colours on this rig - 02, 71, and 65,
 
Yes, the 'Dark Grey' is puzzling me too.
I couldn't get Humbrol (enamel) No.84, so for the RLM 02, I used Humbrol (enamel) No.31 Slate Grey, which is a failry close match to the colour chip I have. For the cockpit, this was lightened slightly with white, but will be used 'neat' for the camouflage colours. (note that in the pics of my model, the use of flash has made the RLM 02 look lighter than it actually is - the mix was around 80% Humbrol No31 to roughly 20% No.34 Matt White, maybe a touch less white).
The available photos of von Werra's aircraft suggest, by the tones, that the cockpit was finished in RLM 02. The seat could also be this colour, but period photos, and preserved, but not re-painted Bf109E cockpits, also suggest that at least three colours could be seen for the seat, these being RLM 02, RLM 66 and a mid grey, not dissimilar to RAF Ocean Grey. For a bit of contrast, I used the latter on my current build.
Some kit and resin seats do indeed include a back cushion, but from what I've seen, this was rarely, if ever, used, as the cockpit was tight enough, when wearing a life jacket and parachute harness over flying clothing, without having the bulk of the cushion making things even tighter.
However, the cushion was likely to be either in leather, or a tough canvas-type fabric, so either a mid brown for the latter, or a slightly darker 'brown leather' colour for the former.
 
This is what I am thinking on how to paint this aircraft...

upload_2018-1-19_9-5-20.png



I now understand that RLM 71 wasn't used until later, but I also don't think it is quite the same as either RLM 02 or RLM 65. (Edit: ive just realized I forgot to include the dark green portions in the above....the Tamiya equivalent for that is XF-61, although some sources say it should be a mix of XXF24 and XF51, in ratios of 1:1. ive gone for the easier option of straight XF 61 at this point.


I have the added complication of how to derive the RLM colour schemes from the Tamiya palette. For the moment I have two choices of palette that I can get from the local supplier (and want to avoid further delays from foreign suppliers if I can) ….humbrol enamels and Tamiya. For the simple reasoning that I know Tamiya (and acylics) better than humbrol, Ive gone for the Tamiya range.

I already have an RLM 65 equivalent which I made the other day, but I have yet to finalise the mixes for the other colours in the palette

These are my thoughts at the minute

RLM02; 5XF-22 + 5XF-49 + 2XF-2 ; or 5XF-22 + 5XF-49 (I will need to run some test cards)

RLM 71 appears to be a mix of XF-62 and XF49 at a 1;1 ratio.

The white needs no explanation.
 
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Michael, here's a brief break-down of the early war Luftwaffe colours (i.e. 1939 to 1941) :-

Initial fighter colour schemes were a splinter pattern on the upper surfaces, consisting of two shades of green - RLM 70 Schwarzgrun (Black green) and RLM 71 Dunkelgrun (Dark green), both of which extended down the sides of the fuselage to a line roughly level with the leading and trailing edges of the main wing.
The entire undersides were finished in RLM 65 Hellblau (Light blue).
In the winter of 1939 to 1940, the upper surface colours were considered too stark for the bright sky conditions, particularly with snow on the ground, and the undersurface RLM 65 was then extended onto the sides of the fuselage, to a line roughly level with the lower edge of the cockpit canopy. This was later raised even further on the rear fuselage section, as seen in many photos.
The two greens, and the pattern applied, were originally intended as camouflage within Germany, and blended well against the ground and forests. However, after the invasion of France, and particularly with operations over the Channel, these were found to be rather too dark, and the darker of the two colours, RLM 70 Schwazrgrun, was replaced with RLM 02 on new aircraft, and serving aircraft were re-painted too, with the splinter pattern being simplified and slightly 'softened', and at the same time, the size and style of the Blakenkreuz was also changed. However, some aircraft still retained the older colours and crosses, but had the revised RLM65 demarcation on the fuselage - reference pics of particular subjects will show this.
The colours of von Werra's aircraft, and those shown on the model you posted above, are RLM 71 Dunkelgrun and RLM 02 Grau on the upper surfaces, with RLM 65 undersurfaces and fuselage sides - the colour you describe as 'dark grey' is supposed to be RLM 02.
In theory, earlier aircraft, including von Werra's machine, had the cockpit in RLM 02, but this often appears to be lighter than the camouflage colour. There is a possibility that this was a lighter shade, although I have yet to find any hard evidence, but comparing it to the external colours, and looking at the shade of the underarriage legs (also theoretically RLM 02) in period pics, there is a definite and distinct difference in shade and tone, compared to the camouflage RLM 02.
There is also some evidence that some cockpits and interiors, before the introduction of the much darker RLM 66 Scwargrau, could have been in a mid grey, similar in tone, in B&W pics, to the RLM 02, and this can be seen both in cockpits, and on landing gear legs, on preserved Bf109Es.
However, I stress that I have yet to find any written evidence to confirm this, but I have seen a number of colour photos of different types of Luftwaffe aircraft, and have seen it 'in the flesh', where this colour can be seen.
So the colours for your model are as per the model you posted (although they look slightly 'off'), with RLM 71 and RLM 02 uppersurfaces, and RLM 65 undersurfaces and fuselage sides.
The fuselage mottles were a later addition, in the mid summer of 1940, as the bright sides of the fighters were once again found to be rather stark against the backdrop of the Channel, but not all serving aircraft received this application, with the 'old' scheme still being evident in very late 1940, the mottle being applied at unit level initially, and later, at the factories.
 
working on the thing at the moment and have quite a bit of progress to show.Two things are holding meback. The uncomfortable heat which has returned for another 5 days or so, and me ogling Terry's 109 E build.


ive got the colours mixed as well as I am going to get them I think, so ive started to put the various elements together. Canopy has been sprayed. ive prepainted the gun barrels using a base of Duralumin (Alclad) and a dry brush of gun metal.the reverse of the normal way I do it, but I couldnt get the cooling perforations to show at all using my usual method. The really fine detail of these AM pieces is now visible,though barely at this scale.

before I can mount the MG 17 barrels I have to finish the engine cover. I discovered some imperfections in the spray application, with a ragged edge on the port side and two chips , one in the XF61 dark green portion and the other in the RLM02 concoction layer. I have since fixed that error as well since I took the following shot.

I then discovered that the demarcation line between the upper colours and the RLM65 lower and side layers wasn't right. I'm currently waiting for my last fixes to dry, and will then rectify this final error. hopefully I wont find any more......

Ive painted the cockpit bath in my version of RLM 02 and also painted the control columns and the pilot seat.The images of the pilot seat show some errors adjacent the harness right shoulder which ive corrected since this photo. The pilot seat as an AM addition is excellent in my opinion, but is simply too good and too detailed for me to handle first time around. There is awhat looks like a cushion behind the harness which probably should a different colour to the RLM02 applied. but I cant see how I can get to that element, achieve a straight edge and not b*gger upthe harness detail which I'm really happy with. There are just too many variables to manage if I wanted to attempt this....and I would have to paint that element as a freehand paint. If I concentrate I can just manage to paint the raise detail of the harness the way I want....add the straight lines of the out edge of the "cushion" and the situation would pass out of what I can control.

Anyway, here are the shots as they stand. A lot of imperfections but I very confident I will have them fixed by tomorrow.


aftermarket control columns front.jpg
.

aftermarket control columns.jpg




I actually have three control columns and have painted them in three different ways trying to work out the best approach

aftermarket pilot seat 1.jpg



aftermarket pilot seat 2.jpg


this is my cameras magnification maxxed out. The harness has come really well I think. you can see where ive had to go back and touch up the finish, and also that further cushion thingy that I haven't made use of. Call me chicken I guess.

gun barrles.jpg


These are the gun barrels mid-way through the process. ive since applied a dry brush layer of Tamiya Gunmetal which has darked things up quite a bit


cowling starboard side.jpg


The engine cowl starboard side with the imperfections that I am currently fixing

cowling port side.jpg


Port side of the cowl, again with the poor results that I'm not happy with. repairs are underway.

engine cowl.jpg



Engine cowl from the top,again showing yet another shortcoming.
 
so its about 6pm local time and a small amount of heat has dissipated 9still clocking 34C here though....its going to be a very hot night.

So I went out and did some further work. Repaired the pilots seat, assembled the cockpit bay and then fitted everything to the port side fuselage. Fit is not great, but I think I can rectify the obvious problems around the IP.


Anyway here are the further progress shots for today.

I'm finally starting to enjoy this kit....

cockpit iv.jpg



cockpit v.jpg


cockpit vi.jpg


cockpit vii.jpg
 
Some good progress there Michael, and I'm sure you'll rectify those problem areas.
The MG17 barrel cooling jackets were in a black, 'Parkerised' finish. If you leave the metallic paint as it is, and then give a light, thin coat of black over the top, followed, when dry, by a semi-matt clear coat, this should improve the appearance, and very possibly accentuate the cooling perforations. Of course, in this small scale, not much will be seen anyway, especially as the barrels are mostly buried under the cowling.
 
Tamiya "gunmetal" is a form of black but very thin. ive used that in the way you've described. looks pretty good I think....will post some photos soon....
 
Michael, regarding the focusing problems with your camera, below are a couple of things which might help.

Even with a 'macro' setting, or using a 'zoom' facility, a camera will have a minimum focusing distance and, depending on the lighting used, with or without flash, even if a photo is taken within the minimum focusing distance, it is still possible to get an un-sharp, out of focus and / or blurred result. This is quite often due to 'camera shake', where the often minimal movement of the hands holding the camera, and the action of pressing the shutter button, are sufficient, at close range, to affect the image quality. Also, the limitations of Depth of Filed come into play, especially with a 'fixed lens', basic camera.
However, by moving the camera a little further away from the subject, instead of trying to fill the frame, the results can be improved. Of course, the result will be a smaller image of the subject in the center of the frame, but this can be selectively cropped to produce an acceptable result.
The cropping can be done in your photo-editing system on your PC (I use Irfanview for all general editing, re-sizing, colour and contrast balance etc), and can either be done using the full image, or by first re-sizing the image to 'best fit to screen'.

The photos below demonstrate this, and were taken with the little, old, second-hand compact digital camera shown, not one of my Nikon DSLRs.
The camera was not set on zoom, and 'Macro' was not used.
First image was taken close up, with flash, and you will notice two things - 1) the flash has 'burned out' the detail, and 2) the image is blurred.
The second pic shows the same subject, taken from a greater distance, and notice how much clearer and sharper it is overall.
The third pic is a crop from the previous image, selected from the center of the frame, and then re-sized to suit. As you can see, although not perfect in detail, again due to some loss because of the flash at relatively close range, it is more than acceptable, with some of the 'grain' of the wine cork visible, and the writing legible.

Hope this helps.


Coolpix test shots 007.JPG
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I agree with Terry. There is no need to take a shot with the short distance even if you use the macro option. For instance my camer allowas me to take a such image with the Macro option from 15-25cm. Its zoom system can adjust the focus withat that range quite fine. But I noticed that it is better to take a picture from 50cm to 1 metre . It is because the most of the kind of cameras save files as very large pictures. Therefore these can be resized down or cropped with the good resolution using e.g the Irfanview as Terry mentioned..

A picture of the wheel bay doors of my Bf 109F of 1/72 scale taken from 80-90cm then a little bit cropped and resized down.

a-jpg.jpg


The same shot but just cropped to the needed size only ...

b-jpg.jpg


and here the next one...

d-jpg.jpg
 
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I take a lot of pictures of the same subject as well: be it for modelling or personal. A quick look at each shot on Irfanview, delete the ones I don't like and then to the photo editor for finals
 

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