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- #141
parsifal
Colonel
Yes those photos do explain a lot wurger. My apologies for mis-interpreting your initial images.
**** DONE: GB-36 1/72 BF 109E-4 - Axis Manufactured Aircraft of WWII
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- Thread starter
- #143
parsifal
Colonel
so, ive abandoned the idea of having a removable engine cover. After four days I did manage to get the cowl to sit flatter, but with the engine cover just sitting there, it still had a gap that I wasn't happy with. I had removed so much material from the inner wall of the engine cover that I risked damaging it. As it was the MG 17 barrel stubs came away and had to be re-attached .
I'm sure there are ways of making this work but I cant work it out, and to be honest I want to get this thing finished.
I'm sure there are ways of making this work but I cant work it out, and to be honest I want to get this thing finished.
So I have buttoned up the cowl. fit was fine, so I moved onto the next phase in this build, which is masking and painting of the main body. Before I got to that I detached the ailerons from the sprue and adjusted them to fit into the wing slots as snuggly as I could. I think I will attach them in the down position. Because of that I think it prudent not to attach the ailerons just yet . But they do fir.
masked off the recently attached engine cowling. not sure if that was a good idea, but it is already done, and has the barrels painted and attached. I wanted to avoid overspray onto the barrels if I could. I protected the wheel wells and the cockpit with a mix of cotton wool and dense tissue paper.
I re-applied the RLM 65 to the lower surfaced and on the underside of the model. It was nice to have it looking clean again. Next I applied a semi gloss hardcost before applying the nexrt part of the masking. ive decided to apply the top coats in the following order: RLM65, RLM 02 and finally the green. I have to apply a hardcoat at each stage when using acylics because the risk of paint lifting is otherwise very high. Also need to seal the masking from leakages and bleeding which I usually have a lot of trouble with.
At the moment I'm half way through the process.....
masked off the recently attached engine cowling. not sure if that was a good idea, but it is already done, and has the barrels painted and attached. I wanted to avoid overspray onto the barrels if I could. I protected the wheel wells and the cockpit with a mix of cotton wool and dense tissue paper.
I re-applied the RLM 65 to the lower surfaced and on the underside of the model. It was nice to have it looking clean again. Next I applied a semi gloss hardcost before applying the nexrt part of the masking. ive decided to apply the top coats in the following order: RLM65, RLM 02 and finally the green. I have to apply a hardcoat at each stage when using acylics because the risk of paint lifting is otherwise very high. Also need to seal the masking from leakages and bleeding which I usually have a lot of trouble with.
At the moment I'm half way through the process.....
Crimea_River
Marshal
Looks good. Two things:
1) What you are calling "ailerons" are actually the flaps. Ailerons are on the outboard of the wings and deflect in opposite directions to bank the plane.
2) I don't think applying a "hardcoat" between colours is necessary. I find that Tamiya paint, if sprayed with a normal paint/thinner ratio, bonds fairly well, as long as you have applied the paint to clean, oil free plastic. Use Tamiya tape for your masking and remove some of the tack by sticking the tape a few times to the palm of your hand before applying it to the model. Applying multiple layers of a gloss coat will thicken your paint finish and potentially trap more dust, plus it's added cost that is not necessary. Do one gloss coat before applying decals and that should suffice.
Michael, I'm wondering whether, given your desire to add lots of detail, you should consider working in 1/48 scale. 1/72 demands so much precision and small deviations like your machine guns fouling with the cowl can result in problems.
I think the model is looking good though.
1) What you are calling "ailerons" are actually the flaps. Ailerons are on the outboard of the wings and deflect in opposite directions to bank the plane.
2) I don't think applying a "hardcoat" between colours is necessary. I find that Tamiya paint, if sprayed with a normal paint/thinner ratio, bonds fairly well, as long as you have applied the paint to clean, oil free plastic. Use Tamiya tape for your masking and remove some of the tack by sticking the tape a few times to the palm of your hand before applying it to the model. Applying multiple layers of a gloss coat will thicken your paint finish and potentially trap more dust, plus it's added cost that is not necessary. Do one gloss coat before applying decals and that should suffice.
Michael, I'm wondering whether, given your desire to add lots of detail, you should consider working in 1/48 scale. 1/72 demands so much precision and small deviations like your machine guns fouling with the cowl can result in problems.
I think the model is looking good though.
turbo
Staff Sergeant
Agree with Andy. A varnish coat will not change the tendency of paint to lift, what is important there is the adherence of your basecoat to the plastic. As Andy mentioned, plastic should be thoroughly cleaned before painting and I preferably use a primer coat that enhances paint adhesion. Coming along nicely though 
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Good stuff Michael, it's starting to look the part.
I agree with Andy and Kirby re the clear coats. I don't normally use acrylics, but when I do, I apply a primer coat first. Using multiple coats will cause a build-up of paint/clear coats, which could lead to problems around some joints where parts will be attached later, and also clog detail, especially in this small scale.
One thing I would add - try to avoid using cotton wool to fill/mask areas such as wheel wells or cockpits. It has a nasty habit of leaving tiny fibers stuck to the surface, which often can't be seen until it's too late, then show up hugely once the final clear coat has been applied.
Damp tissue works very well, and quickly expands and hardens in the 'filled' area once the paint hits it, creating a very effective mask which is easily removed when done. It's placed in position damp, so as to avoid leaving fibers or paper dust, and this also makes it easier to crush into place.
Some people use soft foam for this purpose, which is equally as effective, but be aware that it can potentially damage delicate parts - for example, control columns or levers inside cockpits - as it is more resistant to folding than the damp tissue method.
I agree with Andy and Kirby re the clear coats. I don't normally use acrylics, but when I do, I apply a primer coat first. Using multiple coats will cause a build-up of paint/clear coats, which could lead to problems around some joints where parts will be attached later, and also clog detail, especially in this small scale.
One thing I would add - try to avoid using cotton wool to fill/mask areas such as wheel wells or cockpits. It has a nasty habit of leaving tiny fibers stuck to the surface, which often can't be seen until it's too late, then show up hugely once the final clear coat has been applied.
Damp tissue works very well, and quickly expands and hardens in the 'filled' area once the paint hits it, creating a very effective mask which is easily removed when done. It's placed in position damp, so as to avoid leaving fibers or paper dust, and this also makes it easier to crush into place.
Some people use soft foam for this purpose, which is equally as effective, but be aware that it can potentially damage delicate parts - for example, control columns or levers inside cockpits - as it is more resistant to folding than the damp tissue method.
- Thread starter
- #148
parsifal
Colonel
Have most of the painting of the body done. trsults are generally good, but there are some corrections still needed.
Generally happy with this, but on the port wing need to extend the most outboard flas of green so that it bumps against the port wing white flash.
Pretty happy with this result
Port side view is okay generally, maybe some work on the top seam line for the RLM65.
Some real problems here . horrible mark from the filler I used to "tidy" up the wing root. some discolouration behind the wings and some of the lines need retouching. I rthink I can fix this, mask around the problems and then fix them
Generally happy with this, but on the port wing need to extend the most outboard flas of green so that it bumps against the port wing white flash.
Pretty happy with this result
Port side view is okay generally, maybe some work on the top seam line for the RLM65.
Some real problems here . horrible mark from the filler I used to "tidy" up the wing root. some discolouration behind the wings and some of the lines need retouching. I rthink I can fix this, mask around the problems and then fix them
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Doing well Michael.
The key to a good surface finish is to ensure that any filled areas, and all joints, are checked, re-checked and checked again, before applying paint.
Since the advent of digital photography, I always, whenever possible, give filled areas and joints, such as wing roots, a thin coat of light grey primer, and then photograph the areas. What the naked eye misses, the lens is sure to pick up, and it's a good way to check work before progressing further.
The key to a good surface finish is to ensure that any filled areas, and all joints, are checked, re-checked and checked again, before applying paint.
Since the advent of digital photography, I always, whenever possible, give filled areas and joints, such as wing roots, a thin coat of light grey primer, and then photograph the areas. What the naked eye misses, the lens is sure to pick up, and it's a good way to check work before progressing further.
Crimea_River
Marshal
With Terry. I spend a lot of time on wing roots, often up to 4 or 5 repeats of putty/sand/file/paint. The last two tries are usually with just primer to fill small imperfections.
- Thread starter
- #152
parsifal
Colonel
The first thing to do is try and get a better idea of what is happening near that wing root on the real thing. After ive gone back and examimed the area in detail it looks as if part of the side finishes are worked into the kit moulding. the two holes near the cowl, the apparent pock marking above the wing root, These are all worked into the moulding details of the kit, with the raised detail just a bit too pronounced.
Her are some shotes of some museum aircraft that I found.
Since this morning, I have carried out some alterations on the model. They are not finished yet, but follow what I found in the above images .
I have yet to paint the "wing root plate but the detail and the surface finishes are as good as I'm going to get them I think
Her are some shotes of some museum aircraft that I found.
Since this morning, I have carried out some alterations on the model. They are not finished yet, but follow what I found in the above images .
I have yet to paint the "wing root plate but the detail and the surface finishes are as good as I'm going to get them I think
turbo
Staff Sergeant
Looking better Michael
- Thread starter
- #155
parsifal
Colonel
thanks guys. Early this morning before going to work i painted the "wing plates" and have now removed the masking. I'm happy with the results I think. Will apply a topcoat of clear for decals and then put the "main body to one side for a bit. Next step is to get the canopy ready, make sure it fits. I want to set the canopy in the open position which the kit appears to allow for. need to mask up then spray. Then I will come back main body and apply the decals, another coat of clear to seal them (these have to all be very thin applications). I'm not sure when to mount the tail rudder or the tail wheel just yet. Also am considering weathering effects similar to those used by jkim again.
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Nicely done so far!
Looking good Michael.
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Looks good Michael!
Crimea_River
Marshal
I agree. The rudder and tail wheel can be added at the very end. The tail wheel in particular is prone to being knocked off as you continue to handle the model.
- Thread starter
- #160
parsifal
Colonel
so here are some quick upates of where I'm up to at the minute. ive basically got the main body now to the point that I'm happy 9except the MG17 barrels have lost their paint).
I'm currently working on the canopies, but I'm thinking that I should apply my weathering finishes to the main body before attaching the canopies, or for that matter applying the decals. that's probably not the accepted ordering of things to do, but it just seems safer to go about that way....
I'm currently working on the canopies, but I'm thinking that I should apply my weathering finishes to the main body before attaching the canopies, or for that matter applying the decals. that's probably not the accepted ordering of things to do, but it just seems safer to go about that way....
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