**** DONE: GB-58 1/48 F6F-5N Nightfighter - Night Fighters all Eras

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Thanks, I don't even let my wife in MY room!
I'm sharing. It is a fairly large area and the wife has her computer and printer set up here as well. She, and the occasional dog sitting I do when the daughter cant bring her 'son' with her. Glad he is getting older, used to sit under my chair and any part that hit the floor was eaten. Wasn't to hard to locate those though, just had to wait a day or two.
 
The G18/G20 parts seem to be the actuators seen here ... both parts should had been attached before G17/G22 were glued on.

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the source: Grumman F6F Hellcat. Detail photos
 
I'll take a picture of one of my Eduard Hellcat u/c parts in the morning to help with locating that part if you have not figured it out by then. Looks like I may have been wrong about the door link.
 
Wojtek's pic correctly shows those struts. Here they are on my model:

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Wow. It will be (maybe) the last items that get installed. I'll need my sanity for the clear parts. Not sure where they will 'pop' to and I don't need that frustration and carpet hunting. Thanks for the info. And I'm impressed that you have the 'hooked-nubby' things (sorry I have no idea what they are) attached as well. Now those are extreme tiny.
 
Clear Tamiya (supposed to be shiny!) coat on. Decals in a few days and then the clear parts. Lord I hope the CM doesn't get any of those. Some are T-tiny and will NEVER be found.

Not sure I like Mr. Color AQUEOUS paints yet? Had to go that route since Tamiya and Vallejo had nothing close, color wise, and I did not want to start mixing. The paint itself may be good, and the applicator (me) no so much. I tried straight out of the jar, some thinner, some retarder (in step order) and still wound up with what I call an unacceptable 'pebbly' finish. The Tamiya clear did seem to tame that down some and hoping after the finish semi coat it will be acceptable. Maybe it needs to be super thinned with a double dose of retarder?

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I will explain how I do it with the gunze, they are practically the only ones I spend, (I also use the real color from ak interactive but you are a little less), first I put the thinner, for the mr color his or failing that I throw mek, the paint and then the retarder. It may not be the way but it works 100% for me
 
Ralph, I haven't used it myself but a lot of people praise Mr Color Leveling Thinner. Apparently it works with just about everything, acrylics, lacquers, enamels. I've now found two sources for Mr. Hobby Acrylic in Canada so I'll probably be picking up a bottle myself
 
Ralph, I haven't used it myself but a lot of people praise Mr Color Leveling Thinner. Apparently it works with just about everything, acrylics, lacquers, enamels. I've now found two sources for Mr. Hobby Acrylic in Canada so I'll probably be picking up a bottle myself
When I ordered the Mr Color i was tempted to throw in their thinner/leveler, but it was a huge container and kind of pricy to have for just the two jars of their paint. Not really wanting to start a new paint line collection I chose to not buy. I did see online where IPA or Tamiya thinner would do. Obviously not. So unless I'm going to be building another USN kite, doubtful, I'll take this as a lesson learned; use the product thinners that go with the paints used.
 
Ralph, I feel you dilemma. It's a real tossup mixing brands.
I used to use Tamiya acrylic in the jars to spray, never got the mixtures right.
Always fought to get them too wet, too dry. Used the X-20A thinners.
Still do, but for brushing IP's and small stuff cuz I can do that on the bench.

Not sure if you can get the SMS, Aussie made paints, acrylic lacquers in TX.
This is the link to their suppliers, Find Your Closest Retailer
You can order direct from them however. Paint is used right from the bottle, no mixing.
You can clean an airbrush with regular hardware store Lacquer thinners. They have a FB page'
You can ask any question and the boss will answer quick smart. Ask color choice and they are brilliant.
With exchange rate, price to you is about 65% right now. Just sayin.
 
Ralph, I feel you dilemma. It's a real tossup mixing brands.
I used to use Tamiya acrylic in the jars to spray, never got the mixtures right.
Always fought to get them too wet, too dry. Used the X-20A thinners.
Still do, but for brushing IP's and small stuff cuz I can do that on the bench.

Not sure if you can get the SMS, Aussie made paints, acrylic lacquers in TX.
This is the link to their suppliers, Find Your Closest Retailer
You can order direct from them however. Paint is used right from the bottle, no mixing.
You can clean an airbrush with regular hardware store Lacquer thinners. They have a FB page'
You can ask any question and the boss will answer quick smart. Ask color choice and they are brilliant.
With exchange rate, price to you is about 65% right now. Just sayin.
Advice and reccomendations greatly appreciated. I've pretty much relegated the Tamiya paints to brush on applications, other than the clears. I'm not ready to jump into lacquer based paints, spray booths and all, with Vallejo working well for me air brushing wise; just that they come up short somtimes on the proper color. I do prefer the water clean ups, even using the kitcken sink sometimes when heavy rinsing needed.
 
Advice and reccomendations greatly appreciated. I've pretty much relegated the Tamiya paints to brush on applications, other than the clears. I'm not ready to jump into lacquer based paints, spray booths and all, with Vallejo working well for me air brushing wise; just that they come up short somtimes on the proper color. I do prefer the water clean ups, even using the kitcken sink sometimes when heavy rinsing needed.
My Testors, my Testors, why has thou forsaken us!!!!!!
 

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