Doras Galoras - Unofficial GB

The 84 looks too yellow to me but it could be...Me! Let's see how it tones down...

Black 10 will be up and running tomorrow night!

Nice work guys.

Looking forward to the start Wayne.

@Crimea - yeah its looking OK - kinda kicking myself for just not thinking when I laid out some of those panel lines (as I said, was thinking too Focke-Wulf/Jumo and not Roland/Daimler-Benz)... Still, this Black Primer Microfiller stuff (Alclad) is awesome stuff; turns anything cut with 600grit and above into a flat surface and yet shows up contour faults agonisingly well (the satin finish just makes those little inaccuracies pop-out - glossy enough to use relfected light to test for smoothness, yet matte enough to see the contours); it'll get there. Im about to take to sections of it with a scribing tool, then come back with some Squadrom Green and files to clean the shape up!

@Meatloaf - couldn't agree more! Especially in this case where we're essentually mating a D-9 (from the firewall back) with a DB605LA and Treibwerk, with a custom Roland/Daimler-Benz Deck-Lid and upper engine cover. The thing has been design to have heavier than usual panels in a few places and a small step between Fuselage and Engine Covers on the sides. Im a big fan of some subtle 'depth/width' changes to Fw 190 panels; that said, I haven't quite worked out how far is too far, but this is just another step in the process

As for the subject of RLM84 - Im with Wayne. The 'mysterious' RLM84* is very much a 'Sky Green' colour; as for RLM76, there are four generally accepted variants of RLM76, that in this case appears to be the distinctly cream-grey/light seasame-grey colour which show up on 500-series D-9's, but to my eye, you'be very hard pressed to call them 'yellow'. The other variants are the 'to specificaltion' Blue-Grey, a more Neutral-Blue-Grey and a Green-Grey version, which maybe the same colour as what has become known as RLM84*.

But thats my Two-Cents; or Pence; or Pfennig, whatever...


Dan

Two steps forward, one step back! In trying to engrave some of the panels, the DYNO tape I use as a guide, has lifted some of the Squadron Green off the nose; so I've drawn a line under further panel lines now. If they're not quite right, they can stay not quite right; and I think I have now spent more time on this nose than I did on the Eduard D-11. The next D-15 I do will be a completely different type of process!

Either way, will hit it with some more primer/filler (maybe white this time) when the tamiya surface primer dries and is sanded gently back. Hopefully at that point we'll be to a stage where a wet sand with 1200 grit to remove orange peel, is all that is needed. Im also torn between Radiator Flaps open (which better show the unique shape to the DB605LA flaps) or closed; Ironically, I sorted out the flaps closed before I realised I had flaps open parts - and the closed part is a much better fit... But this is a worry for when the thing is in one piece, the engine and exhausest are in, etc...

I need a nap...


D

Double Post

Nap away.

Dymo tape is nasty and is risky to use on anything other than bare plastic.

Here goes....

Fw190D-9 Black 10 of I/JG26
Username : Wayne Little
Scale : 1/48
Kit : Dragon (formerly Trimaster) Fw190D-9
Extras : Eduard seatbelts probably…

Black 10 will be the subject of this build, it was surrendered at Flensburg with other JG26 aircraft in May 1945. It carries the colourful Yellow tail of a Staffel Leader, a practice originally started by veteran and Experten Oblt. Hans Dortenmann in an attempt to allow his inexperienced pilots to follow and keep track of their leader during a mission.

This Dora was started some 7 or 8 years ago and has been sitting untouched in all that time, this "GB" gives me a kicker to get it done….so I will grow some more arms and add this one to the current series of builds on the go!

As I posted earlier in the thread, the stage at which this build was shelved...and now activated again!

Andy does not understand that I want to say, if so I think if the panels are far apart, but if I put it in position to put the cockpit in place well is out of position and the back or the back of the seat stays almost half cockpit.
are all wonderful the plane.

this model is difficult to be worse only with evidence that I have seen fit to tweak all the pieces, the upper lid out 2mm nose on one side and almost 5 secondly, the landing gear well not fit even in jest, in its magnificent wings form must be pressed in 5 different places to leave straight wing inserts in the front there is a gap of 3 mm and its 2 mm end abound but are put straight positive dihedral as the X-31.
doing so we gradually and with the time I have slowly per week is three little steps.

Good work so far!

Added your confirmed build to Page 1 Wayne.

We now have 15 participants, all with at least one confirmed subject and no-one on the fence. 9 of the 15 entrants have actually started their builds and a couple are in the painting stage. Just need some of the "slackers" to get started!

Crimea_River said:

Dymo tape is nasty and is risky to use on anything other than bare plastic.

Click to expand...

It is nasty stuff, yes - but I had expected it to be OK over i) the three different Styrenes (which it was), ii) the Tamiya Surface Primer (which it also was), iii) the Alclad Primer Microfiller (which is was in all places except for SLIGHTLY tearing the edge of what was being engraved), and iv) Super-Glue Impregnated Squadron Green (which hardens up the outer 0.2mm or so of putty on a deep fill, allowing much slowing shaping (ie, not going too far with one swipe of a file) and a much crisper 'edge' to fills - the DYNO did NOT like this stuff). I avoided any Squadron Green not impregnated...

But this then begs the question; if not DYNO tape, then WHAT do ppl use when you need an engraving guide, over a complex surface, which has a Filler or Primer that DYNO will lift (eg, the Vallejo Polyuerthane Primer gets torn to shreads by DYNO)??? Anyone???


D

Crimea_River said:

We now have 15 participants, all with at least one confirmed subject and no-one on the fence. 9 of the 15 entrants have actually started their builds and a couple are in the painting stage. Just need some of the "slackers" to get started!

Click to expand...

How do some of you people build so damn fast?!?! I can spend DAYS on a D-series wing root join! Obviously I am retarded in some manner, compared to these speed build types!


D

Oh and do we need to 'formally' state stuff like Mr. Wayne above??? (Having never been in a group build before - and sort of getting semi-roped into this one) Here goes....

Fw190D-15 (601286) - Roland AG/Daimler Benz Converted, GFW Fw 190D-9
Username : Zaggy
Scale : 1/48
Kit : Revell Fw 190D-11 (Trimaster D-9, with A-8 Wings and DML/Dragon upper engine/gun fairings - the latter not used)
Extras :
Full Nose section (from Firewall and Forward) rebuild, using Dragon Ta152C-1 nose section (BIG Mistake! hahahaa)
Modified Quickboost Ta 152H exhaust pipes
Modified Parts-R-Parts Fw 190D-11 (Jumo 213E) Engine Plug, converted to look like the DB 605LA
Custom Decals by ME
Replacement Gun Barrels

Dymo make many different styles of tape. When I first heard of it and went to look for it to do panel scribing, I was looking for the embossing tape but the store I went to didn't have it but it had clear "Letratape". I use this stuff and it seems tamer. It's not as robust as the embossing tape but is stiff enough to be adequate for my scribing needs.

Crimea_River said:

Dymo make many different styles of tape. When I first heard of it and went to look for it to do panel scribing, I was looking for the embossing tape but the store I went to didn't have it but it had clear "Letratape". I use this stuff and it seems tamer. It's not as robust as the embossing tape but is stiff enough to be adequate for my scribing needs.

Click to expand...

Letratape - sounds like the gear then; and clear, which can only help. A degree of guesswork/marking out is involved with the Embossing Tape, due to its 'not-clear' nature!


Dan

FINALLY - last panel line engraved on the nose; will leave it for a few hours, to let some Primer filler harden properly, sand it and see what we have. Now to decide about Cowl Flaps - closed 'fit' at the top like they're supposed to, but you dont really see the distinctive 'angling' of the cowling flaps, while open are WAY thick and the fixed area at the top is a 1mm or so too high to fair into the top of the engine cowling Closed is kinda winning ATM; then again, the last half dozen or more Dora's and Tank's Ive done have have cowl flaps open...

Just thinking aloud...


D


Addendum I - Oh and I solved my engraving issue two ways - the bottom cowl join I just ran a 10thou wide razor-saw down the middle of (dead straight, nice sharp line) and for the finer stuff on top, my favourite 3M Scotch Blue taped a fairly flexible medical 'stitch removal blade' (which has about 1.5-2 inches of straight section down the back of it) to parts of the nose, til it was scored with a sharp No.20 before being deepened with a 'dead' No.20 that I use upside down...

We'll see if this works after some Primer Filler...

Addendum II - OK, well, all panels are now engraved and everything has been wet-sanded back to 800-1200 Grit (leaving just a little texture for the AlClad Primer Microfiller to Grab to); I will spray tomorrow as its now well past bed time. Wondering if I should i) add the exhaust deflector super-charger intake now or later (so I can bond styrene to styrene) and try to work round them, or leave them off and just sand back through the Primer to bond them and ii) if I should push my luck and break out the pinwheel and try to add some rivets?

Decisions, Decisions....

Once that is done, the major job is the wing undersurfaces (rescribing - again!!!!) and removing the lower radial exhaust. As most 601-series GFW D-9's seemed to be fitted with the ETC504 from the factory, so I'll be adding that too. Additionally, some extra research has turned up the fact that the D-15 was to feature slightly different external reinforcement (to my eye, the same as the D-9, but with an additional Vertical Plate added foward of the lower reinforcement strip, extending upwards at least 2/3 the way up the fuselage. Images of the destroyed D-15 appear to show this structure still attached to the engine mounts, but its unclear if this is the internal or external part of the reinforcement...

More reading and etc, needs to be done...

I'm going to mess while these steps are not working the problem is minor adjustment later comes the big problem as the planes casitodos'm finishing in the last time.

I put the photos of what I said before the lace are the worst I had long had not seen.

in this picture you can see the landing gear well is twisted but it's really tight, as has been seen in the following photos to leave the wing on top centered left wing insert in the everest instead of a stair:






here is the north face of Everest



Here the south side



good we mounted the engine cowling and the front of the radiator, painted with the base color then I will give depth



the last for now, with stainless steel mesh 250mmicras light filters chemistry where he worked before cut a piece of 4 mm by 4 mm shape give careful not fray, so is in order

Nice attention to detail Sergio.

good work Sergio!
I will point out that the small bulge at the mid point of the bottom of the gun cowl should be removed for your Dora Sergio it was only on 500000 series Doras and not on the earlier 210000 series that you are building.

Coming along nicely Sergio.

I picked up some MM rlm 23 red it seems really light so how dark is the red suppose to be on the underside of the jv44.