GB-41 1/48 Mitsubishi A6M5c - PTO from 1937

[SANCER]

By the way, this was my first kit with which I returned to the hobby and the first one in 1 / 48. I painted the outside with Tamiya cans and the interior with a brush!
Very good kit

 

[parsifal]

So, Ive completed the engine detailing. this is the first attempt Ive made to detail a radial, and the results ive achieved are at best mixed. Ive looked the results from the perspective of a dry fit , and what ive done appears to be good enough to warrant retention .

Anyway here is the unadulterated result....

what the real thing looks like........

 

[parsifal]

Next up is the assembly of the IP. I have a yahu Tamiya kit. The Yahu AM kit has the abovementioned transparency which attaches to the flat plate. then it has these PE add ons which the Yahu instructions seem to suggest stick to the back of the Tamiya supplied backing plate. Im not certain Im reading that right though??????
Has anyone ever built one of these before?

 

[Wurger]

I would you read that correctly, Michael. The instruction suggests attaching the part no. 3,6,8 to the back of the IP.
Additionally please make a focus on the part no.1 that should be attached in the way it makes a kind of a niche for the compass.

Here a couple of pics that can be usefull for you.

the pic source: Rod's WarBirds

 

[parsifal]

Fantastic. thankyou wotjek

 

[Wurger]

Michael, The way the parts can be attached, depends on how accurate the "handles" can be shaped and on the IP thickness of the panel plate. IMHO they suggest sticking the parts to the back surface of the PE indicator panel rather than to the plastic plate. Just you have to check on that. But for sure these have to be glued to the back surface of the IP. However you may stick these pieces to the plastic plate too. But you have to take the plate thickness into consideration when shaping the handles. The pic shoud help.

.

 

[Crimea_River]

Part 1 seems to be a bit odd in that there seems to be no cutout in the main panel to allow part 1 to be recessed into it. Read literally, part 1 will now stick out from the IP whereas the pics show the compass behind the panel surface.

 

[Wurger]

Yep... I agree Andy. I have pointed that too in my post above. Generally I would say there are four ways for attaching the parts with the indicator planel. The easiest one is to stick the 3,5,8 parts to the back of the PE IP without any bending.. And then the entire panel should be glued to the plastic base. But if somebody wants to get the better 3D effect may shape the "handles" and attach the parts to the plastic base either at the back or at the bottom edge of it. In the last case it would be enough to bend the handle once getting the turned down "L" shape.

 

[parsifal]

Thanks guys.im posting out of sequencehere because ive not yet ready our advice properly. I promise that I will but first I thought is might be helpful to post the detail of the kit supplied IP base. this might help to clarify things a bit.

Part 1 on the PE sheet is meant to simulate the slightly recessed false horizon instrument, whilst the clear film overlay sits on the smooth facing of the kit IP. You can see the two holes of part 1 sitting at the base of the instrument. the instrument seems to be represented by the dial forming part of part 3. that would mean that parts 1 and 3 site under the IP film. Doesn't make any sense,because the film is not rigid

A different issue is howto detail the black box on the port side . There is meant to be a decal, to go on this box, which I don't have . A decal would probably not doit anyway, since this area is mostly switches

My apologies for the unclear photo that follows, but you should be able to make out the control box that comes with the kit.....

Its going to be tricky, but my general plan is to use the pin vice to drill out holes in the control box part and insert lengths of rod from the hidden side of the control box, cut them to correct length and paint them to simulate the switches as a sort of raised detail

I still haven't figured out how to make the IP. I will have a careful read of your advice and come back later.

 

[Wurger]

Michael, I would say you have to prepare the plastic bulkhead with the IP. Either it should be like in the first pic or in the second one. Both of them require removing of some plastic from the panel.

As a result you will be able to stick the PE indicator panel

It will be continued..

 

[Wurger]

Having the bulkhead prepared you may attach the parts no. 3,6,8 in three ways....

the first way is the easiest one ... just cut off the parts and without shaping these handles glue them The exception is the part no. 6 that is a kind of a box. The piece when shaped needs to get the handle bended up to get the "L" like shape. In the way you can stick it to the PE indicator panel. like the no.3,8 parts. Having the PE indicator panel completed you can stick it to the bulkhead...

here is the idea of attaching...

to be continued...

 

[Wurger]

Here two next ways for attaching the no. 3,6,8 parts. Each way depends on the place the pieces are going to be stuck. This determines the way of bending of the handles. Please note that the main IP can be stuck to the plastic bulkhead before the parts no. 3,6, and 8 can.

The A way is for attaching parts to the back of the plastic bulkhead with the plastic panel. It should be keep in mind that the way has to be accurate with taking the thickness of the plastic panel into considerastion. I would say that's the very difficult way because it may be a trouble with bending handles precisely and setting of the parts on the correct position relative to the PE indicator panel..

The B one is for attaching the parts to the bottom surface ( edge ) of the plastic panel. IMHO this is the best way for sticking the parts because you can set ( by moving forward or back ) the pieces getting the best 3D final effect.

The end.

 

[parsifal]

I have to concur, that seems the only logical way the various parts can fit. Still have that issue with parts 1 and 6 and I do have some suggestions about parts 3 and 8 (I think this kit is configured to Part 3 being located on the lower right side of the IP) . For Part 6 I was thinking of detaching that square plastic block under the centre of the IP but not discarding it. I would then fit part 6 to that block. You can see cover plates built into the Yahu Part 6 designed to fold around the plastic block. I will have to re-attach the block to the lower side of the IP using some kind of back plate that I will have to make. I don't think the attaching tab that forms an element of part 6 would be nearly strong enough to support that whole subassembly

What to do with Part 1 still has me a bit stumped .

The two bigger bits of plastic top left and top right the kit instructions say should be removed. I wanted to ask your opinion?

Part 7 is simulating what I think is some sort of fuel primer pump. The backing plate to which it is attached is slightly recessed I notice. The backing plate is formed from Part 8. The block in the lower left corner of the kit part is also recessed, but its attachment to the main console of the part prevents part 8 from being attached.

What would happen if I simply attached Yahu Part 8 upside down to the way the instructions say. that way the attaching tab would pass on the underside of the rectangular block and not be obstructed,

Another way might be to simply not use part 8 at all and simply attach part 7 (the priming lever knob) directly onto the Tamiya console part. In my estimate, the Tamiya part is closer in shape to the plate to which that priming lever is attached, compared to the more square shape of Yahu part 8....


and there would be a gap between the plating supporting that fuel primer pump and the main console??????

 

[Wurger]

The two bigger bits of plastic top left and top right the kit instructions say should be removed. I wanted to ask your opinion?

IMHO removing them is OK. I didn't do that for the pics above because these look like the back endings of the fuselage MGs. So it is up to you whether removed or not..

I don't think the attaching tab that forms an element of part 6 would be nearly strong enough to support that whole subassembly

As you may see the part 6 should be like that one after its proper bending. I think that shaped part is enough strong to be the replic of the part. itself. Also the handle bended up allows to attach it to the main IP. Of course it might be either up like in the diagram or put horizontally to be stuck to the bottom edge of the plastic panel.

What to do with Part 1 still has me a bit stumped .

To be honest .. only the major changing to the main IP could help. You will have to drill a hole both in the PE IP and the plastic panel. But I don't suggest/recommend that. So you will have to put up with a such attaching of the part. Also you may cut off the central part of the part 1 and stick just the piece only to the IP. No the niche for the compas there but you won't have to drill holes etc..

 

[Gnomey]

Lovely work so far!

 

[Wayne Little]

 

[parsifal]

At the moment Ive been studying those photos in the link that wotjek posted to make the best use of the mountain of information that I now have. I am feeling more confident now that I can successfully tackle that aftermarket IP and solve most of the challenges that it throws at this build.

In the meantime I tackled some of the interior detailing, mostly the port side

The bath is just dry fitted at the moment. Ive used a lot of licence in the apparatus in the forward bulkhead area, because I found a faithful adherence to the the correct colour scheme just meant the elements were not visible. I still don't know how you guys achieve that......close approximation of the historical interior colours, but still clarity for the detail elements that you do. Hopefully I will learn that skill eventually......

 

[Wurger]

 

[Crimea_River]

The secret is to build in 1/48 scale.

I like how you picked out those details. Looks good.

 

[fubar57]

Agreed. There's happy medium somewhere between 1:72 and 1:32