GB-41 1/48 Mitsubishi A6M5c - PTO from 1937 (1 Viewer)

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It is very good to know that you feel good Michael, your health is the most important thing and that soon you can feel calm again. I sincerely hope that your recovery is in the best possible conditions.

It is a beautiful job that you show us in your cockpit. :salute:

We will be watching your progress in terms of health and being continue enjoying from your A6M5c.

Un fuerte abrazo y cuidate mucho, mi hermano :thumbup:
 
Thanks guys, the encouragement is needed and appreciated.

The cockpit is basically finished, but Im going to hold off for a short while. I need to consider what finishes to apply to the out skin surfaces. The age of the kit is an issue here....it was initially brought out in 1973,with raised panel lines . The kit was updated in 1986 and again in (approximately) 2004, with extra recessed panel lines added, whilst retaining the previous raised lines. The result is a rather strange mixture of both raised and recessed panel detail, but despite some rather unkind comments about this aspect of the kit, the general perception on the "shopfloor" is that the mixed detailing does seem to be alright. I tend to agree. So long as I don't need to do too much sanding it should look alright.

What is missing from the kit detailing are rivet lines . According to this blue print......https://aviationshoppe.com/images/ww2_a6m_zero_Before I can embark on this idea, I will need to acquire a Ponce wheel and practice on how to use it . Ive never attempting riveting before so it will require some practice

I have to order these tools on line I will be going local rather than international . Ive gone to a hobby shop that I know and trust see below. As I will also be looking for scribing tools and a razor saw I think the following is the best local supplier.

Plastic Model Scribers, Chisels & Scribing Templates
 
My Ponce wheels arrived as well as the RB scribing heads. ive spent a few days practicing and I think I can do this, though it is scaring the bejeezuz out of me. Ive also located a blueprint style drawing that I think I can use as a base template. I have not gone for the most accurate or detailed drawing I could find. This is the first time ive attempted a riveting exercise so I wanted something fairly simple and easy to follow .

The image is from an online source from a mob that specializes in paper models. they are called "Propacteam", which is a company under the control of a man named George Ferrier. I copied the image from Google images, but I think it is embedded in Pinterest.

This is as good as I can do for acknowledging the source of the images
Zeke Rivet Plan master plan 850mega pixel.jpg
 
I screwed up the riveting on my Fairey Battle and have relegated it to the naughty shelf. At 1/72, the rivets will be VERY subtle Michael so start with a light touch.

Having messed about with the tool for a couple of days I can better appreciate what you are saying. The tool I purchased has basically four sizes of wheel, ranging from 0.75mm spacing to 1.5mm. Even the 0.75mm is a bit big really . The only saving feature I have is that this kit is a 1/48 scale which makes things a bit larger.
 
Here are the results of my riveting efforts.

Tamiya Zeke Rivet Plan Tail detail .jpg


Tamiya Zeke Rivet Plan side elevations.jpg



Tamiya Zeke Rivet Plan plan elevations.jpg


The tail was riveted whilst at primer stage , after which I applied two coats of Tamiya JA Green over the surface treatment. The topcoat paints

Ive completed the fuselage in the same way, but have not yet applied the top coat over the rivet effects

The wing section was primed and a thinned overwash applied. I then applied the riveting effect over that top coat. The intention here is to apply a further thin coat to "clean up" the finished effect. I am hoping a thin wash will eliminate all the unwanted scratching that has occurred, but without masking the rivets that I have applied
 
Looks pretty good Michael. I know others go over their work with some sandpaper to knock down the raised bits of the rivets but it's really up to the individual to determine if the desired results are achieved. I've never actually finished a model that I tried to rivet so can't offer any advice on this.
 

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