Metallic Pens...must look into that....
GB-47 1/48 Hawker Typhoon - WW2 D-Day and After – Western Front
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Metallic Pens...must look into that....
- Thread starter
- #82
Crimea_River
Marshal
Thanks guys. MOLOTOW™: LIQUID CHROME™
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
I've been using a "uni PAINT marker" extra fine for some years now, the same one, and still going, although mainly used only for oleos, lamp lenses etc.
They, and similar brands, are available in a number of colours, including metalics, from most staionery outfits (got mine from Staples) and art stores, at around £1 to £2 in the UK.
They, and similar brands, are available in a number of colours, including metalics, from most staionery outfits (got mine from Staples) and art stores, at around £1 to £2 in the UK.
Really well done Andy
Good work so far Andy!
T Bolt
Colonel
Yes, very nice work Andy
- Thread starter
- #87
Crimea_River
Marshal
Thanks guys. I'm in that phase where I get bogged down in trying to get my ill-fitting parts (the horizontal stabs in this case) to an acceptable state. I've gone through 3 or 4 stages of filling and forming. I'm getting there very slowly but a finish within the GB time frame is once again unlikely.
le_steph40
Chief Master Sergeant
Really nice work Andy 
Thanks Andy seems there is a place here in Adelaide that has the 2mm will have to check that out.
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
This is the paint pen I've been using, in Chrome Silver.
It's oil-based, with a 0.8mm tip, and made by Mitsubishi Pencil Co. Ltd - ideal for a Zero model !!!
It's oil-based, with a 0.8mm tip, and made by Mitsubishi Pencil Co. Ltd - ideal for a Zero model !!!
- Thread starter
- #92
Crimea_River
Marshal
This f!ckin' tail section is taking forever.....
Last bit of filing before the next step.
My intent is to build back the fairing profile (lost long ago in the incessant file/sand/prime steps) by masking and building up the area with paint.
The result did no turn out well as I damaged the edge when removing the bendy tape mask, so it's another half step forward as I try to fix the damage. Sorry no pic of the result. Too miffed.
Clearly this build won't be finished for the deadline. Add this one to the growing list......
Last bit of filing before the next step.
My intent is to build back the fairing profile (lost long ago in the incessant file/sand/prime steps) by masking and building up the area with paint.
The result did no turn out well as I damaged the edge when removing the bendy tape mask, so it's another half step forward as I try to fix the damage. Sorry no pic of the result. Too miffed.
Clearly this build won't be finished for the deadline. Add this one to the growing list......
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Frustrating, but getting there.
- Thread starter
- #94
Crimea_River
Marshal
Yes, very.
bummer man....
- Thread starter
- #96
Crimea_River
Marshal
Thanks Wayne. Whereas my attempts at getting the tail issues sorted still continue, I moved my attention to the rest of the fuselage to progress the build. As it happens, I made a significant jump forward that resulted in me getting the main wing on.
First off, I had been working on the radiator inlet duct along with the tail for some time as Hasegawa's moulding leaves a rather ugly step in the lower inner surface. After several takes at filling and smoothing, I finally got it to the point where I could paint it with Ocean Grey and slip the radiator in. The latter was possible only after removing the locating tab on the bottom as this was creating a risk of opening the lower fuselage seam as I forced the radiator forward. In the end, it all worked out:
The cockpit was next to go in. Inserting it from the bottom after the fuselage was glued together involved careful prying to get the locating holes over the pins but this was achieved after a bit of coaxing. Liberal application of CA glue at the attachment points (which aren't visible from above) ensures that nothing will come loose.
With these items in place, I was able to get the wing attached. This started out as an attempt to just dry fit it to check how things work but the fit was so tight that I quickly resolved to just go ahead and glue the thing in. As is usually my way, I started by gluing the front and rear attachment seams and allowing these to fully cure before tackling any issues with dihedral or wing root gaps.
And here's why. There are gaps to be closed at both wing roots. The port one closes easily with some mild upward pressure but the starboard one not so much so this one will see some sprue or card inserted into the gap.
The next step will involve examination of a front-view drawing and setting the correct dihedral before doing any gluing in the wing roots. On first look, it appears that the bottom surface of the wing center section is dead flat with no angle to the horizontal so this should make things easy to align.
Thanks for looking in guys. I didn't realize that the GB closes on Dec 6 so maybe there's an outside chance....
First off, I had been working on the radiator inlet duct along with the tail for some time as Hasegawa's moulding leaves a rather ugly step in the lower inner surface. After several takes at filling and smoothing, I finally got it to the point where I could paint it with Ocean Grey and slip the radiator in. The latter was possible only after removing the locating tab on the bottom as this was creating a risk of opening the lower fuselage seam as I forced the radiator forward. In the end, it all worked out:
The cockpit was next to go in. Inserting it from the bottom after the fuselage was glued together involved careful prying to get the locating holes over the pins but this was achieved after a bit of coaxing. Liberal application of CA glue at the attachment points (which aren't visible from above) ensures that nothing will come loose.
With these items in place, I was able to get the wing attached. This started out as an attempt to just dry fit it to check how things work but the fit was so tight that I quickly resolved to just go ahead and glue the thing in. As is usually my way, I started by gluing the front and rear attachment seams and allowing these to fully cure before tackling any issues with dihedral or wing root gaps.
And here's why. There are gaps to be closed at both wing roots. The port one closes easily with some mild upward pressure but the starboard one not so much so this one will see some sprue or card inserted into the gap.
The next step will involve examination of a front-view drawing and setting the correct dihedral before doing any gluing in the wing roots. On first look, it appears that the bottom surface of the wing center section is dead flat with no angle to the horizontal so this should make things easy to align.
Thanks for looking in guys. I didn't realize that the GB closes on Dec 6 so maybe there's an outside chance....
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Good progress there Andy, and has reminded me to get back to the re-furb of my old Revell 1/32nd scale Typhoon, converted to a "bubbletop" - might do that when the "633" Mossie is finished. Also want to do the 1/48th Typhoon cameo diorama I planned a few years back ...........
fubar57
General
Always a good feeling when the wings get attached. I had the same good fit at bottom and gaps along the wing root
Slowly getting there Andy
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