Crimea_River
Marshal
Bill, you could try spraying a clear coat on the decals and letting it dry before dipping them. Should hold them together -give it a try. You can always go back to making your own if that doesn't work.
I am repairing the Kelly Gang Halifax for a friend.
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- #62
N4521U
Colonel
So here's what may be the solution. In the losses of 466 Sqn, there were 5 different "D" code planes lost. There was never an "E" aircraft loss, and never an HX266. Although HX266 HD*E was never lost, I think it would have been replaced by newer aircraft, as this seemed to be common. The "E" then re-assigned, this time to the newer NR169. Where the "T" on Halibag NR169 comes from I have no idea at this time, *have only seen it in captions to photos that never show the original codes.
You have been so much help. If I may be so bold, which clear would You be using for this? Could it be brushed on? *Would it be the Humbrol clear cote you are meaning? Bill
You have been so much help. If I may be so bold, which clear would You be using for this? Could it be brushed on? *Would it be the Humbrol clear cote you are meaning? Bill
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Crimea_River
Marshal
That should work. I've never tried brushing so can't comment. There are also decal sealers sold in rattle cans you can use. I have a can of Testors Decal Bonder which does the same thing.
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
As long as it's an acrylic varnish, then virtually any will do it. I use a clear gloss in a spray can, the current make being Vallejo, which I got from the local art shop.
Crimea_River
Marshal
Well, I don't know my chemicals well but I would have thought an oil based stuff would work too. Is Hiumbrol Clear Coat acrylic? The Testors Decal Bonder is a toluene based product containing alcohols and liquid petroleum products. Sounds lovely.
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
In most cases, yes, virtually any clear coat will work - I used to use only enamel varnishes until recently. However, with old decals, or those likely to break-up, the solvents in non-acrylic coatings may cause further damage. The varnishes supplied or suggested by those companies providing clear or white plain decal sheets are acrylic based.
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- #67
N4521U
Colonel
Based on all the Very welcome tips above, I have just brushed some Humbrol clear on the matching decal that broke up in the water. As I have replaced them with others I had in the box it is expendable. Humbrol is an enamel, as it recommends cleanup with thinners. It does have to dry for 6 hours, so tomorrow morning I will see how it goes, to see if it will slide off.
Again, I owe much to all your help and tutoring.
Again, I owe much to all your help and tutoring.
Bill, I wouldn't be sure about these 6 hours. It depends on the temperature all around , how much of a thinner you added and the thickness of the dope layer. I have been using Humbrols for many years and 10 hours is not enough often. So don't rush.....
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- #69
N4521U
Colonel
I hear ya! Point well taken. Will advise on results. Bill
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
I agree with my Polish 'T Stoff' appreciation friend!
Even with 'quick drying' clear coats, you must allow for the substrate, that is, the paper base, coatings and inks used on the decals. Better safe than sorry - leave a minimum of 24 hours before use, preferably longer.
Even with 'quick drying' clear coats, you must allow for the substrate, that is, the paper base, coatings and inks used on the decals. Better safe than sorry - leave a minimum of 24 hours before use, preferably longer.
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- #73
N4521U
Colonel
Ah well, best laid plans...... clear cote stuck to the backing paper. On another note regarding decals. See the photo of the old decal sheet, "E" for easy has a serial number of NR152? By the log of serial numbers for 466 Sqn, there was never an NR152 attached to that Sqn. It just goes on and on.
Gotta laff tho!
Gotta laff tho!
Attachments
Crimea_River
Marshal
Not sure what you mean. Did you try cutting the decals out close to the edges, letting them soak like normal and see if they came off the paper?
Wildcat
Major
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- #76
N4521U
Colonel
Bill, NR152 did serve with 466 sqn, see post #4 at the start of this thread.
I stand corrected........
I have Peter looking in his dads log books to see if we can come up with a serial number for the Gang.
*If I might ask.
Where did you get the list of aircraft Arthur crewed with???
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Wildcat
Major
Bill, my info comes direct from the 466 sqn Operations Record Book. These contain sorties flown, aircraft involved and the pilots in command of the aircraft. the ORB is available on the National Archives website.
National Archives of Australia
National Archives of Australia
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- #78
N4521U
Colonel
Thanks for that. I will have to see what I can find.
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- #79
N4521U
Colonel
I have had it confirmed............. the code and serial number of the Gang was HD*E and NR152. It is published in a book with bottom and front views of the plane, along with detailed art of the nose. A second verification is a painting Peter now has, it was done for his father Arthur, with the same code, and same serial number. We know for a fact this is the actual code and serial, mainly because this painting was done by the commercial artist and crewman who did the nose art on the Halifax when attached to 466 squadron, and the one on this model.. So, NR 152 it is ! I'm sure glad this search is over.
Plus I have found another decal sheet like the one I have, that has turned to crap. I just hope this new one is in better shape. I sailor on.
Plus I have found another decal sheet like the one I have, that has turned to crap. I just hope this new one is in better shape. I sailor on.
Wildcat
Major
Great stuff Bill!
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