I'm Finally Back

[T Bolt]

That stuff looks real nice, but be careful handling it afterword. I used it to paint a Spanish Ha-1112 and it looked excellent after polishing, but buy the time I was done with the decals I had rubbed off a spot on the fuselage from handling it.

 

[Aaron Brooks Wolters]

Yeah, you do have to be delicate when handling it, you end up with it all over everthing.

 

[Aaron Brooks Wolters]

My first major fark up. I thought I had gotten all the white enamel I had used to check for cracks around the wing roots off. W---------e----------l----------l, I was WRONG!!! But I think once it dries I can rub it out. I'm going to try it anyway. Wether it works or not is yet to be seen. Here's what it looks like at the moment.

 

[Aaron Brooks Wolters]

I think it may be the location that I was shooting into. Shooting into a confined sharp corner like that I needed to drop my airpressure and slow my motion down. Seems to have fixed the problem. Live and learn.

 

[Airframes]

Good to hear Aaron. I was going to suggest another coat, as the angles can interfere with a smooth application, but it sounds like you're sorted. As it happens, a feint amount of white wouldn't be a major problem, as it can sometimes help to give a slightly worn look to natural metal, although, of course, the P51 wing wasn't NMF, but puttied and laquered, to help maintain the laminar flow. But this area still got dulled slightly from the passage of feet.

 

[Aaron Brooks Wolters]

This was looking more like someone had sprayed 5 grit glue and left it. Should I use the Future polish or would a clear work with the decal set. I have not purchased any of either yet so I am open to suggestions as to what would work best. The metalizer is lacquer so I'm not sure the Future would work. Here's what it looks like untaped.

 

[javlin]

I was thinking the same thing Terry another coat but I was thinking also using a paper towel to smooth out the coat or a really wore out scotch brite.Now when I say worn out Aaron one of those you use in painting the vechicles that has gotten to maybe 1500-2000 grit feel.I always keep one around for sometimes the paint sorta splaters or dries before it hits the model.It's flexible to get in grooves and corners,hell I was just using it on a prop to smooth out the finish (it's about 1000 now).It will polish the NMF or any paint some before the clear gets laid.I am not a big fan of clear on NMF but I think helps the decals stick better.Terry can probably finish that statement off.Cheers

 

[Shinpachi]

I admire your very quick and neat work, Aaron

 

[Airframes]

I agree with Kevin - I'd try giving it a gentle polish, but using a soft cloth, such as the type used for polishing spectacles, or a piece of cotton wool. Do this lightly at first, to test the surface.
Future might be safer to use than other types of clear coats, but test it on a concealed area first (under the tail for instance) to see if it reacts. I don't think it will, but some acrylic varnishes, and certainly enamel-based ones will.
Personally, I don't normally apply a clear coat to NMF, unless the original aircraft had this, or I want to change the appearance of an area, such as flaps for instance. This is because the tone, shade and texture will be altered by the diffusion of the clear coat, however thin, and can make the metallic particles more visible, giving a 'speckelled' effect. However, I do coat the decals once applied, and only the decals, to prevent them cracking and peeling, which will happen on a NMF surface, given time.
Given that the metallic finish is relatively smooth, there should be enough 'shine' to allow the decals to draw-down and settle well - very well indeed normally. This in itself can be a slight disadvantage, as the decals, depending on thickness, the smoothness of the decal surface and the amount of 'tack', may want to almost instantly stick and settle.
The reason this sometimes happens is due to my not using a softening or setting solution on the NMF, as this can, and most often will, leave a stain, showing as a slightly darker, greyish matt area on the otherwise bright silver, once dry - and it's virtually impossible to remove. However, I get around this by ensuring the decal itself is still wet, and the area is wet immediately before application, using a soft #3 paint brush, or smaller, to apply water. The decal is then placed, slid into final position, and tamped down with a soft cloth, at the same time removing the water. Once this has settled, after a few seconds, it is then gently pressed again, normally using a soft tissue, before a minimal application of Micro Sol (not Set) directly onto the decal, which is then left to do its 'thing'. Being a 'metal' surface, more or less, the decals should settle and stick like s**t to a blanket!
Once happy that they are firmly settled (about 12 hours to be sure), they can then receive the desired clear coat - gloss, semi-matt or matt.
Hope this helps.

 

[Aaron Brooks Wolters]

Thank you very much Terry. I have an old camera cleaning towel that I think will work for rubbing out the NMF. It is extremely soft. It is a very small Micro-Fiber towel. I really did not want to put clear on the finish because I was pretty sure it would change the look. So I am very relieved at your advice. Again, THANK YOU SIR!!!!! And Javlin, thank you for your advice also sir. Much appreciated. We have a box full of WORN THE H@() OUT scotchbrite at the shop but I think the small towel may work, if not I'll step back and punt with the scotchbrite. Thank you Shinpachi.

 

[Vic Balshaw]

Hope it works out Aaron for it's a great looking build.

 

[Aaron Brooks Wolters]

Thank you Vic. It's my first build in 27 years so I doing a lot better than I expected and the advice from you guys is helping immensely.

 

[Gnomey]

Coming along nicely Aaron!

 

[Wurger]

Yep I agree. Nice job so far.

 

[Aaron Brooks Wolters]

Thank you guys. Terry has been a big help. Hopefully I can make it to the hobby shop tomorrow at lunch to get some Micro-Sol. I am absolutely dreading the decals. I'm just going to have to take my time and hope the large wrap of checkers goes on as they are suppose to.

 

[javlin]

So I take it Aaron that you got the NMF to smooth out to your desires?Look forward too the next installment.Cheers

 

[Aaron Brooks Wolters]

Not yet. I have not even touched it since night before last. I'm suffering from Lucky13 syndrome.

 

[Airframes]

What, you mean you're stuck in the pub, surrounded by gorgeous Judies??!!

 

[Wayne Little]

I'm suffering from Lucky13 syndrome.

Gee....that's too bad Aaron, hope it's not too painful...maybe a visit to the doctor and a jab in the butt...it might help....

 

[Aaron Brooks Wolters]

No jabbing the butt sir.[-x I went to the hobby shop today and got the Micro-Sol and a set of color mixing pipettes. I also got a Italeri 1/48 scale Douglas A-20G Havoc to. So hopefully I can get some headway on the P-51 this weekend. I can't get to work. My Jeep has finally died after 253,592 miles.