Micro Sol question

• Oct 15, 2013

• #1

R

RGaspar

Airman

53

2

Nov 24, 2011

Kansas

I got some micro sol last week when I picked up my 109 E4, only I've never used the stuff before. Do I need to use micro set too, or can I just use the micro sol alone?

 

• Oct 15, 2013

• #2

S

stona

Major

9,380

3,183

Mar 28, 2009

It's a two step process but you don't have to use both. I've been using the system for years with good success.
Microset, in the blue bottle, (which is basically a dilute solution of acetic acid) is used when applying the decals but if you didn't use it there is no reason why you can't use microsol, in the red bottle, to help your decals settle and conform.
Don't apply it until the decals have dried from their initial application. If you get any wrinkling LEAVE IT ALONE!!!! Any attempt to rectify this at this stage will result in destroying the decals. They will normally settle after a few hours.
Microsol very rarely can be a bit strong for some decals. I suggest that you apply a decal that you don't need from the decal sheet to an old model or spare part and treat this with microsol to check the result before you splash it on your model! Better to ruin an unwanted experimental decal than your model.
Cheers
Steve

 

• Oct 15, 2013

• #3

Airframes

Benevolens Magister

62,983

12,516

Aug 24, 2008

Cheshire, UK

I agree with Steve. I've been using just the 'Sol' for the last 30+ years, for both applications, without problems.

 

• Oct 15, 2013

• Thread starter
• #4

R

RGaspar

Airman

53

2

Nov 24, 2011

Kansas

Ok. Sounds good to me. One more quick question what's the best way to strip the paint off for starting over? My 110 has been giving me fits with this paint job, and I'm just not happy at all I rushed it a little in my excitement to use my airbrush for the first time and forgot to mask off certain areas, and botched the mottling as well.

 

• Oct 15, 2013

• #5

mikewint

Captain

8,286

2,070

Feb 17, 2010

Lakeview, AR

I also use just the -sol but I add a drop or two to the decal soak water, then I apply the -sol to the model with a paint brush where the decal is to be placed. Once the decal is in place and excess water drawn off I apply -sol directly to the decal, again with a paint brush, then I allow everything to dry. Again as stated DO NOT disturb the decal as the -sol is disolving the decal. If the decal is not completely flat more -sol can be applied to the dry decal

 

• Oct 15, 2013

• #6

meatloaf109

1st Lieutenant

6,731

324

Jan 1, 2012

north carolina

Yep!

 

• Oct 15, 2013

• #7

Crimea_River

Marshal

46,217

14,279

Nov 16, 2008

Calgary

RGaspar said:

Ok. Sounds good to me. One more quick question what's the best way to strip the paint off for starting over? My 110 has been giving me fits with this paint job, and I'm just not happy at all I rushed it a little in my excitement to use my airbrush for the first time and forgot to mask off certain areas, and botched the mottling as well.

Click to expand...

Not tried it but I've heard brake fluid works really well.

 

• Oct 16, 2013

• #8

Airframes

Benevolens Magister

62,983

12,516

Aug 24, 2008

Cheshire, UK

Yep, and not as harsh as a blow torch! (I've already got me coat ....)

 

• Oct 16, 2013

• Thread starter
• #9

R

RGaspar

Airman

53

2

Nov 24, 2011

Kansas

Brake fluid? Every time I visit this forum I learn something new. I really appreciate all the tips you guys have been giving me the past few weeks, as I love warbirds and I hope to recreate them as decently as I can. It's always been passion since I was a kid playing janes wwII fighters and building planes. I can only get better from here!