<-- Mosquito FB.VI - Twin Engined Aircraft of WWII
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- #102
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Thanks very much chaps, and I like those instrument cases Wojtek !
The 'Gee' equipment has now been prepared for casting, and each part has been fixed to a stiff card base, with a cut-down plastic shot glass attached around them, to act as the mould vessel.
These were all attached with PVA adhesive, and allowed to set, when the excess 'pools' of PVA around the parts would shrink back.
I was just about to mix and pour the RTV rubber mould compound, when I realised I hadn't sprayed the parts in the release agent !
(It's suggested that three coats are applied, leaving each coat to set before applying the next.)
So, the shot glass has been removed, and I'll spray the parts later, and replace the glass, before mixing and pouring the RTV.
Once this has cured, the parts can be removed from the mould, and the resins can be mixed and poured and allowed to cure.
Meanwhile, a parachute rack and first aid locker, with external torch (flashlight) rack, have been fabricated, painted and fitted to the cockpit floor, and some paint wear replicated on the floor, allowing the oil-resistant primer to show through - thanks to Andy for reminding me about the primer !
PICS 1 and 2. The three parts of the 'Gee' equipment glued to the card base with PVA. Those 'pools' of excess adhesive have now shrunk-back, and are no longer causing 'lumps' around the base of the parts. The clear plastic shot glass was cut down, and split up the middle, before being glued to the card base. This will act as the 'vessel' for the RTV compound, with the split allowing the completed mould to be easily removed once cured.
PICS 3 and 4. The First Aid locker was fabricated from plastic channel and card, with small brackets and clasps cut from thin strip. The torch was made from plastic rod, gently heated at one end and then pressed against the bench to form the lamp housing. The parachute storage rack in the Navigators foot well was assembled from plastic channel and strip. These look a bit 'rough' in the macro shots, but look fine to the naked eye - honest !
Once I get the domestic chores out of the way this evening, I'll mix and pour the RTV compound into the shot glass, and allow it to cure.
With a bit of luck, I might have the first castings done by tomorrow - keeping my fingers crossed that I get the mixing ratios right, and they form OK !
The 'Gee' equipment has now been prepared for casting, and each part has been fixed to a stiff card base, with a cut-down plastic shot glass attached around them, to act as the mould vessel.
These were all attached with PVA adhesive, and allowed to set, when the excess 'pools' of PVA around the parts would shrink back.
I was just about to mix and pour the RTV rubber mould compound, when I realised I hadn't sprayed the parts in the release agent !
(It's suggested that three coats are applied, leaving each coat to set before applying the next.)
So, the shot glass has been removed, and I'll spray the parts later, and replace the glass, before mixing and pouring the RTV.
Once this has cured, the parts can be removed from the mould, and the resins can be mixed and poured and allowed to cure.
Meanwhile, a parachute rack and first aid locker, with external torch (flashlight) rack, have been fabricated, painted and fitted to the cockpit floor, and some paint wear replicated on the floor, allowing the oil-resistant primer to show through - thanks to Andy for reminding me about the primer !
PICS 1 and 2. The three parts of the 'Gee' equipment glued to the card base with PVA. Those 'pools' of excess adhesive have now shrunk-back, and are no longer causing 'lumps' around the base of the parts. The clear plastic shot glass was cut down, and split up the middle, before being glued to the card base. This will act as the 'vessel' for the RTV compound, with the split allowing the completed mould to be easily removed once cured.
PICS 3 and 4. The First Aid locker was fabricated from plastic channel and card, with small brackets and clasps cut from thin strip. The torch was made from plastic rod, gently heated at one end and then pressed against the bench to form the lamp housing. The parachute storage rack in the Navigators foot well was assembled from plastic channel and strip. These look a bit 'rough' in the macro shots, but look fine to the naked eye - honest !
Once I get the domestic chores out of the way this evening, I'll mix and pour the RTV compound into the shot glass, and allow it to cure.
With a bit of luck, I might have the first castings done by tomorrow - keeping my fingers crossed that I get the mixing ratios right, and they form OK !
- Thread starter
- #104
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Thanks my friend !
Robert Porter
Senior Master Sergeant
Truly well done! Can't wait to see the finished product!
- Thread starter
- #106
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Thanks Robert.
I've delayed casting the resin parts, as my hands and wrists are a bit stiff and painful, and I don't trust myself getting the pouring right - just be my luck that my wrist would lock, or fingers spasm,and the bl**dy RTV would go all over the place, or at least settle unevenly, causing air bubbles.
I'll get it done sometime tomorrow - the ambient temperature should be more suited then as well.
Meanwhile, I've been 'messing about' with various Mosquito canopies, to see which one I'll use on this model, and for the forthcoming PR.IX build, and also doing a bit more research on the PR type.
I'm about to start another build thread for this.
I've delayed casting the resin parts, as my hands and wrists are a bit stiff and painful, and I don't trust myself getting the pouring right - just be my luck that my wrist would lock, or fingers spasm,and the bl**dy RTV would go all over the place, or at least settle unevenly, causing air bubbles.
I'll get it done sometime tomorrow - the ambient temperature should be more suited then as well.
Meanwhile, I've been 'messing about' with various Mosquito canopies, to see which one I'll use on this model, and for the forthcoming PR.IX build, and also doing a bit more research on the PR type.
I'm about to start another build thread for this.
Crimea_River
Marshal
Looking good Terry.
T Bolt
Colonel
Some fantastic interior detail work there Terry
Lovely work so far Terry!
- Thread starter
- #110
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Thanks chaps.
Still haven't done the resin casting, as my hands and wrists are still stiff, as well as some pain from a damaged shoulder -- confirmed today, from the results of the recent X-rays. (been offered a shoulder joint replacement, as the problem is causing acute pain and stiffness in the upper arm muscles, but I don't fancy being messed with and having plastic parts stuck inside me. I'd feel like a scratch-built model !)
The stiffness seems to be easing off a bit tonight, so hopefully, if I get a good night's sleep, I should be able to get back to the bench tomorrow or over the weekend.
Still haven't done the resin casting, as my hands and wrists are still stiff, as well as some pain from a damaged shoulder -- confirmed today, from the results of the recent X-rays. (been offered a shoulder joint replacement, as the problem is causing acute pain and stiffness in the upper arm muscles, but I don't fancy being messed with and having plastic parts stuck inside me. I'd feel like a scratch-built model !)
The stiffness seems to be easing off a bit tonight, so hopefully, if I get a good night's sleep, I should be able to get back to the bench tomorrow or over the weekend.
Crimea_River
Marshal
Maybe you can make yourself a resin shoulder joint and get Karl to do the surgery. After all, he can carve a nice roast beef. Some shots of T-Stoff before and after and you're good to go.
Could do, just bought some new knives for work so still very sharp !
Other plan could be to get April involved, she's had 2 months of vet school so must be qualified by now !!!!
Robert Porter
Senior Master Sergeant
I love Model Master paints. They make a great line of acrylics as well. Can't abide the smell of the enamels. I happen to have a fairly large selection of regular testors and some Model Master Enamels if anyone wants them. I think there is some restriction on shipping out of the country or by air or some such. But happy to let you know what I have. By the way I mean free not trying to sell them.
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- #114
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Thanks chaps.
The idea of Karl operating on me, with April as his assistant does not really appeal - I'd probably end up with a drunken smile, and a chicken leg in place of a shoulder, while Karl wanders off whistling, and grinning widely !
Robert, thanks for the offer, but there'd definitely be a restriction sending them to the UK - like 'No Way' !
It's bad enough for inland shipping in the UK, as they have to be sent by carrier (and some won't accept them) or by 'Parcel Force', which is now a separate part of Royal Mail, and charge three times as much as it used to cost, to send stuff that's been acceptable for a couple of centuries, but is not now allowed !
Anyway, back to the Mossie.
As previously mentioned, I'm delaying doing the casting until my hands are up to the job of carefully measuring and pouring the casting materials, and getting the timing right. So I've been investigating options for canopies for the FB.VI, and the next build, the PR.IX.
An explanation on the latter will be included in the PR.IX thread.
Although the canopy in the Airfix kit appears accurate in dimensions, detail and shape, and is fairly clear, it's rather thick, causing quite a lot of distortion when trying to view the interior. Also, as with the Tamiya FB.VI canopy, it has the windscreen wipe moulded in, which is vertical on the screen which, in my opinion, spoils the look of the whole thing.
There are three options open to me for the FB.VI :- use the kit canopy; clean off the paint and use a forty-year old spare canopy from the old Monogram kit, which is thin and very clear, or try out for fit the excellent vac-formed canopy from Rob Taurus, designed for the Tamiya kit.
The Rob Taurus canopy is a direct copy of the Tamiya part as far as shape and dimensions are concerned, and includes the wiper motor housing, but thankfully lacks the wiper blade, which can be made from stretched sprue, and fitted at an angle. It also has beautifully rendered frames, both slightly raised, and engraved, as well as lines of tiny 'pimples' on the inside, representing the rivets for the internal, tubular frames.
However, I already had slight concerns that the profile of the Tamiya part is slightly too low, and it is also very slightly narrower than the Airfix example,
So, the only way to find out which would be the better choice, was to remove the vac-formed canopy from the mould form, clean it up, and try it for fit.
This was duly done and, after filing down the raised,forward edge of the Airfix cockpit aperture slightly, and placing the canopy in position, it was an almost perfect fit, just needing a bit of 'tweaking' to get it to settle fully all round.
PICS 1 and 2. Show the Rob Taurus canopy after separating it from the vac-formed sheet. It's rigid, and hard to distinguish from an injection moulded item - probably the best vac-formed canopy I'v ever seen.
PIC 3. The vac-formed canopy on the left, alongside the Airfix kit canopy - apologies for the dust from the polishing tissue !
PICS 4 and 5. The canopy choices, with the 40 year old Monogram canopy at left, vac-form in the center, and the Airfix kit canopy at the right.
PIC 6. It's only just noticeable in this shot, but there is a height difference, the Tamiya-pattern vac-formed canopy being slightly lower than the other two, confirming my suspicions that the Tamiya item is too low, if only slightly.
PICS 7 and 8. The vac-formed canopy placed loosely on the Airfix fuselage. It won't take much to fit this properly, and blend it in. Notice also how clear the canopy is, with the interior detail easily visible.
This needed to be done now, as, once the cockpit is finished, and the fuselage halves joined, I need to fit and blend-in the canopy, and seal the door aperture, before proceeding, as there will be some filling and sanding needed on a couple of sink marks on the fuselage, which will create some dust.
I am exceptionally pleased with the canopy, and the fact that it will fit. The internal frames will be created by painting the interior colour on to clear 'Sellotape' (clear parcel tape, equivalent to 3M 'Scotch' tape), cutting this into very thin strips, and applying the strips to the frame lines on the inside of the canopy. In general, this is a better method than using coloured or painted clear decal strips, as it is easier to place and fix the strips, which can be moved and re-fixed if not right first time, being self-adhesive, and they are less likely to move or lift, if given a clear coat. It also allows the colour to be exactly matched to the interior.
I'll be back, hopefully tomorrow, with another up-date. Thanks for looking in.
The idea of Karl operating on me, with April as his assistant does not really appeal - I'd probably end up with a drunken smile, and a chicken leg in place of a shoulder, while Karl wanders off whistling, and grinning widely !
Robert, thanks for the offer, but there'd definitely be a restriction sending them to the UK - like 'No Way' !
It's bad enough for inland shipping in the UK, as they have to be sent by carrier (and some won't accept them) or by 'Parcel Force', which is now a separate part of Royal Mail, and charge three times as much as it used to cost, to send stuff that's been acceptable for a couple of centuries, but is not now allowed !
Anyway, back to the Mossie.
As previously mentioned, I'm delaying doing the casting until my hands are up to the job of carefully measuring and pouring the casting materials, and getting the timing right. So I've been investigating options for canopies for the FB.VI, and the next build, the PR.IX.
An explanation on the latter will be included in the PR.IX thread.
Although the canopy in the Airfix kit appears accurate in dimensions, detail and shape, and is fairly clear, it's rather thick, causing quite a lot of distortion when trying to view the interior. Also, as with the Tamiya FB.VI canopy, it has the windscreen wipe moulded in, which is vertical on the screen which, in my opinion, spoils the look of the whole thing.
There are three options open to me for the FB.VI :- use the kit canopy; clean off the paint and use a forty-year old spare canopy from the old Monogram kit, which is thin and very clear, or try out for fit the excellent vac-formed canopy from Rob Taurus, designed for the Tamiya kit.
The Rob Taurus canopy is a direct copy of the Tamiya part as far as shape and dimensions are concerned, and includes the wiper motor housing, but thankfully lacks the wiper blade, which can be made from stretched sprue, and fitted at an angle. It also has beautifully rendered frames, both slightly raised, and engraved, as well as lines of tiny 'pimples' on the inside, representing the rivets for the internal, tubular frames.
However, I already had slight concerns that the profile of the Tamiya part is slightly too low, and it is also very slightly narrower than the Airfix example,
So, the only way to find out which would be the better choice, was to remove the vac-formed canopy from the mould form, clean it up, and try it for fit.
This was duly done and, after filing down the raised,forward edge of the Airfix cockpit aperture slightly, and placing the canopy in position, it was an almost perfect fit, just needing a bit of 'tweaking' to get it to settle fully all round.
PICS 1 and 2. Show the Rob Taurus canopy after separating it from the vac-formed sheet. It's rigid, and hard to distinguish from an injection moulded item - probably the best vac-formed canopy I'v ever seen.
PIC 3. The vac-formed canopy on the left, alongside the Airfix kit canopy - apologies for the dust from the polishing tissue !
PICS 4 and 5. The canopy choices, with the 40 year old Monogram canopy at left, vac-form in the center, and the Airfix kit canopy at the right.
PIC 6. It's only just noticeable in this shot, but there is a height difference, the Tamiya-pattern vac-formed canopy being slightly lower than the other two, confirming my suspicions that the Tamiya item is too low, if only slightly.
PICS 7 and 8. The vac-formed canopy placed loosely on the Airfix fuselage. It won't take much to fit this properly, and blend it in. Notice also how clear the canopy is, with the interior detail easily visible.
This needed to be done now, as, once the cockpit is finished, and the fuselage halves joined, I need to fit and blend-in the canopy, and seal the door aperture, before proceeding, as there will be some filling and sanding needed on a couple of sink marks on the fuselage, which will create some dust.
I am exceptionally pleased with the canopy, and the fact that it will fit. The internal frames will be created by painting the interior colour on to clear 'Sellotape' (clear parcel tape, equivalent to 3M 'Scotch' tape), cutting this into very thin strips, and applying the strips to the frame lines on the inside of the canopy. In general, this is a better method than using coloured or painted clear decal strips, as it is easier to place and fix the strips, which can be moved and re-fixed if not right first time, being self-adhesive, and they are less likely to move or lift, if given a clear coat. It also allows the colour to be exactly matched to the interior.
I'll be back, hopefully tomorrow, with another up-date. Thanks for looking in.
Crimea_River
Marshal
The vac formed one sure looks nice.
- Thread starter
- #116
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Yes it does. When I saw the pic on the Hannant's web-site, I thought it looked pretty good, but when I received them, and opened the packs, I thought 'WOW !
Apart from being exceptionally well produced, the way they are moulded, with a sensible area around the edges, and 'textured' clear plastic on the non-canopy areas, makes it a lot easier, and more precise, when removing them from the mould form. And, being quite rigid, with only a small amount of flex, unlike most vac-form canopies, it's much easier to trim and/or sand the cut edges, and handle generally. It will also make masking and fitting easier..
Apart from being exceptionally well produced, the way they are moulded, with a sensible area around the edges, and 'textured' clear plastic on the non-canopy areas, makes it a lot easier, and more precise, when removing them from the mould form. And, being quite rigid, with only a small amount of flex, unlike most vac-form canopies, it's much easier to trim and/or sand the cut edges, and handle generally. It will also make masking and fitting easier..
T Bolt
Colonel
Terry I might have the Monogram canopy in my spares box. Might save you the trouble of cleaning the paint off the old one of you decide to use it instead of the vacuformed one
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- #119
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Thanks Wojtek and Glenn.
Glenn, thanks for the offer, but I'll definitely be using the vac-formed canopy. The Monogram canopy, although not quite accurate in the geometry of the frames, which can be rectified, is quite good, and a lot clearer than it looks in the photos, and more so when cleaned. However, it's slightly wider than the cockpit aperture at the mid point, and doesn't quite match up at the curve of the windscreen, both of which would be a rather tricky job to correct.
I've since trimmed and sanded the vac-form canopy a little more, and sanded a bit more of the ridge at the front of the cockpit, and the fit now is near perfect. The height error is only just noticeable, and probably wouldn't be noticed by others, so, for all the other benefits of this canopy, I'll live with the height difference.
Glenn, thanks for the offer, but I'll definitely be using the vac-formed canopy. The Monogram canopy, although not quite accurate in the geometry of the frames, which can be rectified, is quite good, and a lot clearer than it looks in the photos, and more so when cleaned. However, it's slightly wider than the cockpit aperture at the mid point, and doesn't quite match up at the curve of the windscreen, both of which would be a rather tricky job to correct.
I've since trimmed and sanded the vac-form canopy a little more, and sanded a bit more of the ridge at the front of the cockpit, and the fit now is near perfect. The height error is only just noticeable, and probably wouldn't be noticed by others, so, for all the other benefits of this canopy, I'll live with the height difference.
Looks great so far Terry!
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