Nuuumannn's European Tour of 2019

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After what has been an extraordinarily busy last two weeks, we are ending our Berlin segment of the tour. We are still atop the carillon at the Langemarck-Halle at the western end of the Reichssportfeld. This is the Reuter West CHP Combined Heat and Power Station to the north east of the Olympiastadion site. Operated by Vattenfall Europe Warme, it is a coal fired station. One thing that the view from the tower emphasises is the amount of natural greenery there is around the outskirts of Berlin.

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Looking toward the east, we see by now familiar landmarks and the extent of the city's urban sprawl; at the extreme right we can see the French Dome in the Gendarmenmarkt, with the Siegessaule, moving left through the greenspace of the tiergarten we can make out the green roof of the Adlon Hotel and at the cluster at centre can be seen the Rotes Rathaus, Berliner Dom, Reichstag and the blocky World Trade Centre, with the Fernsehturm to its left. This image gives a good idea of just how big the Fernsehturm is and how much it dominates the skyscape. It looks magnificent.

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To the south is the former radar station at Teufelsberg. Built on a man-made hill next to the Grunewald forest, Teufelsberg, literally Devil's Hill, was constructed of rubble collected from ruins post WW2. It is on the site of a Nazi technical college, the Wehrtechnischen Facultet designed by Speer that was never completed. Some 75 million cubic metres of debris was collected and dumped on top of the enormous structure by Trummerfrauen, women who collected rubble from around the city's wasted buildings, then sorted and cleaned it. This was dumped on the incomplete technical school, because attempts to destroy it failed. The radar facility was initially American and was run by the NSA as a listening station throughout the '60s, but was in the British sector of the city and was taken over by No.26 Signals Unit, RAF in October 1972 until its closure in February 1992. Clearly abandoned now, there were many rumours about the station during the Cold War, including a theory that a tunnel to the ruins beneath the hill had been built and that a secret base was located underground, which might have been a submarine base (!) - oh the conspiracies... One peculiarity was that during certain times of the year, the signal strength increased and the operators were puzzled as to why; it was eventually worked out that a ferris wheel erected during the German-American Volksfest at Zehlendorf amplified the return signals, so it was left in place once this had been worked out. Today for a small fee, the site can be visited and guided tours can be taken, although vandals and grafitti artists have left their mark on it.

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Finally from the Reichssportfeld, Nazi architectural styling in these reliefs at the entrance to the Waldbuhne stadium. Designed by Adolf Wamper, this is Helenehrung, symbolising the Nationales Festspiele, with another flanking the entry gates symbolising the Musischen Festspiele. This unmistakable fascist style litters the Olympiastadion grounds.

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A couple of interesting sites on the way back to my friend's place; Another Speer lamp, this time on the Kaiserdamm; this stretch of road used to be Adolf Hitlerplatz and joins up with Strasse des 17 Juni, formerly the Ost-West Asche that runs through the Tiergarten and ends at the Brandenburg Gate. The picture's distorted owing to it being taken out the car window.

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And finally for this day, the Bornholmer Bridge, or Boesebrucke; we are crossing over from West to East as on the other side of the bridge was a checkpoint for crossing the border into East Berlin, exclusively for the use of West Berliners. Here was one of the first points where thousands of East Germans began gathering on the turbulent night of 9 November 1989, when the announcement was mistakenly made by the SED party that the borders were going to be opened. At 11:30pm, the Bornholmerstrasse checkpoint barrier arm was lifted and it became the first border crossing to be opened, which brought about the eventual collapse of the DDR. Historic indeed. Note the tramline running along the bridge's centre.

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So, that brings about the end of the Berlin chapter of my tour. There is more to come of course and the next day I caught a taxi to the poky Flughafen Tegel to fly to Brussels. High above the city we can see features so familiar to us; sliding beneath the wing is the former Stasi headquarters on Frankfurter Allee, the diagonal road running to the centre of the image; Tegel can be seen at the top and the Tiergarten the greenspace at top left. Goodbye Berlin; be seeing ya.

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Arriving in Brussels, I begin the third chapter of my tour; the focus being a three day road trip through Great War battlefields following the course taken by the New Zealand Division between 1916 and the end of the war, but first, two nights in the Belgian capital. This is the Brussels Central station, and a memorial to the fallen of both the Great War and WW2.

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Brussels is, of course home to the European Union and this is Le Berlaymont, the European Commission Headquarters on Rue de La Loi. Agh Boris! My eyes! They're burning!

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A short walk through Parc de Cinquantenaire and we reach the Triumphal Arch - there's a quadriga on top of this one too.

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The reason why I'm here? The Musée Royal de l'Armée et de l'Histoire Militaire; one of the biggest fully enclosed military museums in Europe. This is the frontage of the Grand Hall, of which in the next post we shall see in all its grandeur.

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More...
 
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We are inside the enormous Musée Royal de l'Armée et de l'Histoire Militaire, within which I spent the better part of four hours. This is the pre 20th century hall, filled with weaponry and trophies of war. Like all European powers, Belgium established colonies abroad and used its military to enforce Belgian rule over its subjects. Note the spears and shields on the wall to the right; The Congo suffered dearly at the hands of the Belgians.

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In the Great War Hall is this Renault FT.17 tank - remember back during my D-Day tour I showed examples of how the Germans used turrets from these as fixed defences along the Atlantic Wall? A small two person vehicle, the FT.17 was groundbreaking in many ways - it was the first tank designed from the outset to be fast and nimble and operate in swarms in the vanguard of rapidly advancing troops - what would later be called Blitzkrieg tactics, for which the FT.17 was specifically designed. It was the first tank to have a 360 degree revolving turret within which its armament was mounted, it was the first tank to incorporate the classic tank layout of the crew in front, in this case a driver and commander/gun operator in the turret, with the engine at the rear and the tracks to the side. It was also one of the first tanks to be mass produced and built under licence, in the United States and Russia. Thousands of these little things were built for the French army and there were still hundreds of them in reserve when Germany invaded in 1940. Behind the diminutive FT.17 is a Whippet and Tank Mk.IV.

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From the sublime to the truly ridiculous - Nazi themed Christmas decorations!

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An AVG leather jacket, how cool is that? Note the blood chit with the Nationalist Chinese flag explaining that the finder of this airman will be rewarded handsomely if he is returned safely to the nearest friendly airbase.

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We could go through select images of items within the various halls and rooms of the vast museum, or we could just skip all that, go to the aviation hall and look at aircraft! SABENA (Such A Bad Experience Never Again) Caravelle.

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Maurice Farman MF.11 Shorthorn.

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Meteor F.8 and Spitfire XIV, with F-16, Vampire and Oxford behind.

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SPAD XIII.

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Sopwith 1 1/2 Strutter.

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Royal Aircraft Factory R.E.8.

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Former Portuguese Air Force Junkers Ju 52/3mGe, a genuine pre-war Junkers Dessau built example.

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More Brussels museum Aviation Hall next.
 
Thanks again guys. Continuing in Brussels: The Grand Hall in all its dusty splendour.

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A plethora of types on display here with a Fairchild C-119 at centre and de Havilland D.H.89 and Percival Pembroke to the right.

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Avro Canada CF-100; note the flat tyres, a common theme of the aircraft here.

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Nord 1002 in need of some care.

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Half dressed Fairey Battle. This one has no Belgian history, being a former RAF example whose restoration began with the Strathallan Colllection at Auchterarder, Scotland.

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Rare de Havilland Mosquito NF.30 night fighter. The size of the Battle by comparison is noteworthy.

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Bucker Bu 181, with original Fieseler Kassel built Luftwaffe Fi 156 behind. It was interned in Sweden in 1945.

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Sad looking Hurricane; the state of some of the aircraft is deplorable.

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Fairchild Bolingbroke. This is a composite construction of components from different Bolis and wears the serial of RCAF 10038, but has been depicted in the markings of Blenheim IV L9416 of 139 Sqn, RAF, which was forced down near Hoerpertingen, Belgium in 1940.

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Douglas A-26 Invader.

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And lastly, Mil Mi-24 Hind.

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Autoworld Brussels next.
 
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Next, we walk across the car park to the similar Grand Hall of Autoworld Brussels; like the military museum, an extensively eclectic collection of historic vehicles.

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There was an exhibition focussing on Citroen cars, which included this space age looking SM.

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A portrait of Emil Jellinek's daughter Mercedes sits next to a smart 370S Mannheim Sport.

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Travelling in style in the 20s, Ford TT Motorhome.

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A car and manufacturer I had never heard of, FN 1400 of 1930 - note the wooden panelling. The titular FN was Fabrique National de Armes de Guerre, National Manufacturer of War Weapons, of Belgium was founded in Liege as a... well, it's in the name, isn't it. FN manufactured cars from 1899 until the late 1930s.

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Hispano Suiza. There's a name welcome back anytime.

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Another new one to me; La Jamais Contente - The Never Satisfied was (hold on to your power cords, Prius and Leaf owners) an electric car that was the first road vehicle to exceed 100km/h, or 62mph. On 1 May 1899, Camille Jenatzy achieved the remarkable speed for the time, of 105.882km/h (65.792mph). This one is a reproduction.

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American chintz: Chrysler Windsor and Chevrolet Bel Air.

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An Amphicar 770, showing us her prop.

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And from the opposite end of the automotive spectrum, Lexus LC.

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Fernando Alonzo's Renault R.29 F1 car.

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And lastly, the sublimely beautiful Ferrari 275 GTB.

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So, that's it from Autoworld Brussels, just a wee snippet of the many hundreds of vehicles on display. Next, we find ourselves back in France, this time exploring the battlefields of the Somme.
 
Thanks again guys. After leaving Autoworld I headed for Brussels Central station and indulged in what is a ritual for budget European travellers, queueing at train stations to buy tickets, for the next day I caught a train to Lille, France and met with Christian of Camalou Battlefield Tours. Now, I'm adding a plug for Camalou, because their product is fantastic; both Christian and his wife Annette, whom I had take me round on the second day of the tour were extremely knowledgeable and passionate about the subject matter. They are locals of Vlanderen (Flanders) and are based at Vlamertinge, a few ks from Ieper or Ypres to the rest of us. Here is their website:

Western Front WW1 Battlefield Tours in the Somme, Flanders and Ypres - Camalou

Camalou do tours to match your requirements and will research where a family member is buried for you. Their tours specialise in sites of your chosen national interest and as a Kiwi I was keen to follow the course of the New Zealand Divison on their arrival on the Western Front in mid 1916. The tour went for three days and the first was spent in the Somme region, with the next two in Flanders, firstly in and around the sites associated with the battles for Messines Ridge, then Passchendaele, where New Zealand forces suffered their worst daily loss of men in warfare, on 12 October 1917.

So, after a few stops and starts, we left Lille and headed due south for Arras, where the Allied forces fought one of the bloodiest and most costly engagements of the war. The course of the next lot of posts will follow the actual route we took round the countryside rather than in chronological order, otherwise we would have started at Etaples, or Eat Apples as it was nicknamed, where a staging post for men arriving and leaving the continent was located. Arras township was heavily shelled and left for ruin by the Germans on their advance south for Paris in 1914, but the French never quite gave the town up, for Arras held centuries old secrets beneath the ground; limestone quarries that, before the 1917 offensives were excavated by New Zealand and British miners, within which thousands of soldiers lay in wait for the battle. For a month from April 1917, Commonwealth forces attacked German trenches around Arras, notably the Canadians at Vimy Ridge being the first significant victory of the engagement. This battle was led by France's General Nivelle, whose controversial battle plans had support from government, being personally endorsed by British Prime Minister Lloyd George, but was shunned by General Alexander Haig in the military high command. Following the disasters on the Somme the previous summer, the British were keen to not repeat the same mistakes, so Arras was meticulously planned and despite the high losses (!) the German trenches were over run in a multi-pronged attack that ended with the Australians securing positions at Bullecourt on 16 May; the Aussies nicknaming the campaign 'The Blood Tub'. The centre of Arras today, unrecogniseable to the soldiers of 1917.

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Within Arras is Carriere Wellington, a museum experience that explores the remains of the tunnels that were dug to house troops who were engaged in the fighting. Named after New Zealand's capital city, the tunnels were largely dug by miners from New Zealand, who named sections after towns from back home. During WW2, the tunnels were used as air raid shelters, but following the war were left abandoned and forgotten about until rediscovered in 1990. At the entrance is this rather poignant photo board with portraits of New Zealand soldiers digging for victory, as it were.

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Badges from the New Zealand Tunneling Company. Incidentally, the first Kiwi troops to fight on the Western Front were these miners, arriving in September 1916.

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We are now nearly 100 feet below the ground. A map of the Arras caverns in relation to the town and the front. Many of the tunnels have since collapsed and are inaccessible.

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This is the Nelson Tunnel, pleasing for me as I live in Nelson. From Wikipedia: "The Arras tunnels linked the quarries to form a network that ran from the town centre, under no man's land, to a number of points just in front of the German front lines. The tunnel system could accommodate 20,000 men and were outfitted with running water, electric lights, kitchens, latrines, a light rail system and a fully equipped hospital. The tunnellers named the individual quarries after their home towns - Auckland, Wellington, Nelson, Blenheim, Christchurch and Dunedin for the New Zealanders, Glasgow, Edinburgh, Crewe and London for the Britons."

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A mock-up of living quarters. Again from Wikipedia: "500 miners from the New Zealand Tunnelling Company, including Māori and Pacific Islanders, recruited from the gold and coal mining districts of the country, were brought in to dig 20 kilometres (12 mi) of tunnels. They worked alongside Royal Engineer tunnelling companies, made up by now of British coal miners and expert tunnellers who had built the London Underground. Many of them were "Bantams", soldiers of below average height who had been rejected from regular units because they did not meet the height requirements; others had been initially rejected as too old, but their specialist mining experience made them essential for the tunnelling operation."

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Exit No.10 that led to the surface and the road to the frontline. This one took soldiers to the Canadian lines. From the internet: "Thousands of soldiers were billeted in the tunnels for eight days prior to the start of the Arras offensive on 9 April 1917. At 05:30 that morning, exits were dynamited to enable the troops to storm the German trenches. The Germans were taken by surprise and were pushed back 11 km (6.8 mi). This counted as an extraordinary success by the standards of the time. However, the offensive soon bogged down and it was eventually called off after casualties reached 4,000 a day."

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A memorial to those lost tunnelling, with an image of New Zealand tunnelers behind and pick axe heads left behind. The WC sign in red is WW2 vintage when the tunnels were used as air raid shelters. More from the internet: "The work was difficult and dangerous. In the New Zealand units alone, 41 tunnellers died and another 151 were injured during countermining operations against the Germans, whose own tunnellers sought to disrupt the Allied tunneling operations."

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Back on the surface, the memorial to the battles that raged on the flat land around the town is located on the grounds of Carriere Wellington.

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Next we drive south to the first of many cemeteries on the tour, Grevillers British Cemetery, where there are 1921 fallen soldiers of the Great War and seven from WW2. There are 151 New Zealanders here. The cemetery itself is located right on top of the German trench system that was captured by the Kiwis in August 1918.

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There is also the Grevillers New Zealand Memorial on site that commemorates almost 450 Kiwis who perished in the fighting around the area, from March 1918 until the end of the conflict in November, who have no known grave. It is one of seven such New Zealand memorials on the Western Front.

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The churn of the Western Front here was part of the battle for Bapaume, which we'll visit later in the day, a couple of Ks from the sleepy village of Grevillers stormed by the New Zealanders on 24 August 1918, following its fall to the Germans in the previous March. Here is an image of a German trench, perhaps located not far from the Grevillers cemetery, that can be seen in the Great War Memorial in Wellington, New Zealand.

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Six of the seven WW2 graves at Grevillers are the crew of Lancaster II DS660 of 115 Sqn, which took off from RAF East Wretham, Norfolk to attack Aachen on the night of 13 June, but was shot down by a Ju 88 piloted by Hubert Rauth of 3/NJG 4 based at Florennes, Belgium, and crashed north west of Metz-en-Couture, near Havrincourt. The pilot, Fg Off Rodney Larson, a Canadian survived and was taken prisoner, whilst the six remaining crew, seen here were respectfully buried by the Germans within the cemetery. Note that Sgt J.A.T Newton's doesn't have a cross on it.

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While we were tripping round the various grave sites we saw a number of CWGC (Commonwealth War Graves Commission) personnel hard at work undergoing maintenance. It was good to see the care being lavished on these places during our visits. That's my guide Christian to the left.

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Next, The Irish, Thiepval, a leaning statue and a ruddy great hole.
 
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