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No need to glue down separate 'tiles' Rob, although that is a better way for realism. Once the sheet of card is glued down and set, the shapes are marked out in pencil, using a ruler (squares or rectangles), the scored with a craft knife, removing any card 'swarf'. The tar sealer, if required, can be done with a pen, although I normally used thinned paint, painting in some areas of 'spillage' or where the tar has flown over a corner joint.
Making the base is very simple Rob, the painting is the thing which adds the realism, and a little practice will allow a great base to be made. Always start off with a shade lighter than required, and allow for some absorbtion by the card. Successive coats, uneven spraying, and multiple coats in some areas add the varied tones, with stains being done with thinned paint.
 
Good stuff Rob. Remember though, that the staining will look more than it actually is in such a view- at ground level, it will look more like darker areas of concrete, rather than huge blob of oil or other stains. The smaller the scale, the more subtle the shade and tone contrasts need to be.
 
I thought some of you guys might appreciate this guys ability to build,paint and shadow small parts on the Tamy 1/32 Spit.This build has been going on I think two years next Jan here: Tamiya's big Spit - Works in Progress - LSP Forums now I was able to see the pics without having to sign in.Some pics of his work.....
 

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Wow the quality shows on that spit, way epic :) I hope everything is able to fit, it sucks when you do that much detail on any model and have to peal back wires :(
 
Oh it fits......and he's another one of those damn Canadians :lol:
 

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Exceptionally good work on those control linkages on the engine! Bit dubious about a couple of the interior colours (look like modern restoration colours on the tanks, due to safety legislation, but I could be wrong), but otherwise fantastic work. Love to see the complete model.
 

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