Super detailing Guillow's P-51D Mustang

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Regarding my previous post # 35 in which I jumped ahead of myself to reply to Mr. Airframes, I'm now going to post my trial concept of applying a metal foil covering for the Mustang. My goal is to finish the model as a P-51 Mustang in Big Beautiful Doll, but in a highly polished shine as if it was a recently restored aircraft we often see at airshows and calendars. We all know that metallic paints, no matter how much we buff them after they're sprayed on, or how shiney the manufacturer claims their product to be, in the end, all paints look like, well, .... paint! Thus, I decided to try approaching the model from a totally different perspective and do something I've personally never done before. That is to apply sections of metal foil. In this case, I tried out two different types of foil coverings. One was called "chrome vinyl" and the other is called "Flite Metal." The word, "Flite" is spelled correctly and is the trademark of the vendor who sells it. The vinyl is exactly that. A vinyl covering we all see on kitchen countertops, in the bathrooms and more. Instead of colors such as green, red, blue or having colorful patterns, this particular type of vinyl is chrome. It's not real metal, but a highly polished chrome finish surface. The other, Flite Metal, is a true metal foil that has a sticky backing. They both have similarities in applications and appearance. They also have advantages and disadvantages. I ended up choosing Flite Metal for a variety of reasons and I'll share the results and my conclusions with you.
 
To begin, let's compare the two side-by-side. They really come very close in resemblance. The one on the left is Flite Metal. Save for the rivet patterns and the curled edges of FM IFlite Metal), it's really somewhat difficult to tell them apart. The picture really doesn't do justice to seeing them together in person. They really do look alike.
 

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The chrome vinyl is very soft to the touch. It also easily bends just as a vinyl covering should. You can see that just holding it loosely, it simply droops over my hand. Flite Metal on the otherhand, really comes off like a piece of thin metal that was cut up into a strip. Have you ever cut a thin aluminum disposable baking pan? FM is very similar but more thinner and more flexible. Notice how FM strip literally had jagged edges and almost stands on its own. One must be very careful handling FM, or there is a risk of cutting oneself from the jagged edges...... ask me.

The similarities are that they both come in wide sheets and have a backing paper that is peeled off to expose the adhesive. Just as if one is to install shelf paper with a sticky backing, they both are also applied in the same manner. However.....

FM has by far, the most strongest adhesive I've ever encountered. Only need to just barely touch the adhesive backing with a tip of the finger and its almost as if it was instantly glued with super glue. While trying to pull the FM free from my finger, I'm adding wrinkles and dents to the foiled finish. So, one must handle it with extreme caution. The caution here should be in the context of trying to maintain the integrity of the finished surface, not one's health or digital ends of the hands. It's just as if one is handling something fragile.
 

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For my proof-of-concept, I created a faux fuselage from scrap balsa and laminated strips next to each other. I then added Spackling Compound filler only to the opposite ends, leaving rhe center with exposed bare balsa that was sanded down smooth.

In the next photo, I then added a primer to the ends only. Then the primer was sanded smooth using # 400 wet-n-dry sand paper. The finish "on the ends was glass smooth. The center still remained smooth, but bare balsa. I wanted to see how the covering would react to prepared and unprepared surfaces, and see if I could possibly save time by avoiding any excessive work.

The next photo shows some of my preparation for the test.

Finally, a close up of what we call, "pounce wheel." It is a spiked wheel and is easily obtained through arts and craft stores and was used to produce rivets.
 

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I'm at work. Thank you gentlemen. It's been a long on-going process. I'm still experimenting with FM. It's really a new skill, just like tissue covering or using a heat-shrink film. Even sanding, using blocks, by hand, & different grades of paper all require a skill to master. It's definitely a challenge for anyone who wishes to finish their model in natural metal.
 
Viking and Wurger, thank you gentlemen.

Viking: there are a few modelers out there on another modeling site who are very much interested in modeling a Martin B-10.
 
The B-10 has been done. A friend and fellow model club member flew a control line B-10 at the 1981 AMA nationals. Powered by two Fox .15s and featured bomb drop. It was scaled up from 1/72 plastic kit and plan.
 
I had the honors of seeing the B-10 up close while visiting the National Museum of the U..S. Air Force in Dayton, Ohio. I believe I was lucky to get a few photos of it. It's really a giant of a plane.
 
Gentlemen,

Please excuse the delay in my postings. I'm having diffuculties in transferring pictures from my phone to my folder files and from the files I can posts my results. Apparentl;y my new iPhone X and laptop have not been formally introduced and therefore are not talking with each other..... I can send pictures to everyone else, but my own laptop.
 
Good day gentlemen,

It looks as though this laptop's days are numbered and I'll be shopping around for a new one. This laptop is currently over 8 years old and by computer standards, it's considered an antique. However, I managed to clean up enough space and dust off enough cobwebs to allow me to post a few more on the Mustang build. So, onwards we go....
 

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