What's on The Workbench (1 Viewer)

Trebor · Mar 24, 2013

there's at least 5 1/48 GA planes that I know of. Cessna 150, Cessna 172, Piper Cherokee, Beechcraft Bonanza and Piper Super Cub. all done by Minicraft. couple business jets done by Revell Germany. Learjet and Cessna Citation. not really many out there. I'd like to do a PA28-180, or a Cessna 177 Cardinal, Cessna 182, De Havilland Beaver, Cessna Skymaster, Beechcraft Baron. in fact, it'd be better if it was 1/32nd

A4K · Mar 24, 2013

My grandfather once gave me a 1:48 Cessna 182 (IIRC) he made, in '83 or so. Think it was a Monogram kit - box lid was white, black title at top with a photo of the made model.

Airframes · Mar 24, 2013

Why not make your own decals for the lettering Rob? Just find a sutiable typeface, and if it needs to be slanted, see if it will work by going into 'itallic'.
Hobbycraft used to do a Beaver, and a Otter, in 1/48th scale - saw some advertised recently.

Trebor · Mar 24, 2013

I don't have the equipment to do so, though. I'd need that testors decal maker and a brand new printer. however, if I do that, I won't have to do much masking if any at all. I can print out the 2 tone brown cheatline or arrow.

something like this design
Photos: Piper PA-28-180(mod) Cherokee C Aircraft Pictures | Airliners.net

or this
http://www.airliners.net/photo/Pipe...01743/L/&sid=fa4747252d42c532dd68a93fe972c0a7

Airframes · Mar 24, 2013

You don't need the 'Testor's decal maker' - clear, or white, decals sheet can be bought, in separate sheets, or packs, from many outlets, both for inkjet and laser printers. I get mine direct from a computer papers supplier, at a fraction of the cost, for the same stuff, from modelling outlets.
Just select a relevant typeface from the fonts on your computer, select a 'point' size and colour, and try a trial print onto ordinary printer paper first. If the 'point' size needs to be reduced or enlarged, do this by using the computer to compress as required.
Once happy, print out a number of required items onto clear decal sheet, allow the ink to dry for at least 30 minutes, spray with clear acrylic gloss varnish, and allow to dry for around 2 hours minimum, preferably 12 hours. Job done! Here's an example done straight on the forum, without adjustment -G-ATDF

Catch22 · Mar 24, 2013

Nothing! I'm caught in a pretty bad rut modeling-wise and can't seem to get back into it. It's not like I have a shortage of kits but I really don't know what to do. I figure starting with something simple and easy would be best but ugh.

A4K · Mar 24, 2013

Fight that one often Cory - everyone else seems so much more important... Hope you get back into it some time soon though!

fubar57 · Mar 24, 2013

Yep, been there Cory as I think many in this forum have. Mine lasted almost two years and then one day...pooh...I'm screwing up plastic daily when I'm not in camp'

Geo

Trebor · Mar 24, 2013

Airframes said:
You don't need the 'Testor's decal maker' - clear, or white, decals sheet can be bought, in separate sheets, or packs, from many outlets, both for inkjet and laser printers. I get mine direct from a computer papers supplier, at a fraction of the cost, for the same stuff, from modelling outlets.
Just select a relevant typeface from the fonts on your computer, select a 'point' size and colour, and try a trial print onto ordinary printer paper first. If the 'point' size needs to be reduced or enlarged, do this by using the computer to compress as required.
Once happy, print out a number of required items onto clear decal sheet, allow the ink to dry for at least 30 minutes, spray with clear acrylic gloss varnish, and allow to dry for around 2 hours minimum, preferably 12 hours. Job done! Here's an example done straight on the forum, without adjustment -G-ATDF

what about creating the cheatline on the fuselage? like one of the ones I posted? I guess I'd use Paint, eh? my photoshop died on me. -.-

fubar57 · Mar 24, 2013

You could download Gimp or Paint.Net. They are free and far, far superior to Paint

Geo

Catch22 · Mar 25, 2013

Yep, just gotta hope I get out of it soon!

And agreed Geo, while I've never used either, I have seen quite excellent results with Gimp in particular.

Wayne Little · Mar 25, 2013

c'mon Cory...go simple and take that first new step!

Trebor · Mar 25, 2013

managed to carefully cut out the door using a combination of a razor saw and a couple hobby knives.

Wurger · Mar 25, 2013

Airframes · Mar 25, 2013

Good stuff Rob. The cheat lines can be done using decal strips, or masked and painted. Decal strips are available in various widths and colours, as are sheets of 'solid' colour.
Cory, I know the feeling! I haven't done any modelling since November, apart from a token bit adding damage to a Bf109 fuselage! I have four models I need to complete before the end of July, for Museums and a commission build, plus others I'm really itching to get at. But, after a combination of illness, stiff hands due to the arthritis, and then terminal lethargy, I'm finding it frustrating, wanting to get back to it, but not finding the full motivation.
I know that, once I start again, there won't be a problem - a bit like 'writer's block' I suppose - so tonight, I'm going to biter the bullet, and start in order of priority.
Heck, I've got 20 kits to do for the BoB collection, which won't get done unless I get these other things done first!
Just grab a kit and get started Cory, it's probably the only way!

Catch22 · Mar 25, 2013

Terry, that's exactly how I am. I WANT to go work on them but I just, well, never do. I noticed Vaughn's Thunderbolt last night, was going to save mine for Heavy Hitters (if it would count that is) but I'll probably get putzing on it today!

A4K · Mar 25, 2013

Go for it mate!

Trebor · Mar 25, 2013

Airframes said:
You don't need the 'Testor's decal maker' - clear, or white, decals sheet can be bought, in separate sheets, or packs, from many outlets, both for inkjet and laser printers. I get mine direct from a computer papers supplier, at a fraction of the cost, for the same stuff, from modelling outlets.
Just select a relevant typeface from the fonts on your computer, select a 'point' size and colour, and try a trial print onto ordinary printer paper first. If the 'point' size needs to be reduced or enlarged, do this by using the computer to compress as required.
Once happy, print out a number of required items onto clear decal sheet, allow the ink to dry for at least 30 minutes, spray with clear acrylic gloss varnish, and allow to dry for around 2 hours minimum, preferably 12 hours. Job done! Here's an example done straight on the forum, without adjustment -G-ATDF

wouldn't I need to get white ink or a printer that prints white? and concerning the sheets...would this work? Scalehobbyist.com: 3Pak Clear Ink-Jet Decal Film 8.5" x 11" by Bare Metal Foil

fubar57 · Mar 25, 2013

As far as I know, only the laser printer prints in white. You can get white decal film but you have to trim away the excess white or match some of the background color around the decal. It won't be bad if you are doing those civilian aircraft that are painted white. Not sure how the Experts Choice Decal Film is but I'm sure it's just as good as Testors brand. Another thing to remember is the decal film is very thin.

Geo

Catch22 · Mar 25, 2013

I believe it's actually only an ALPS printer that does Geo.

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