What's on The Workbench

[A4K]

WIP...

All other builds pushed aside to finish these 2 for some mates, planned handover Monday.

Me 262B-1a/U1 - Revell 1:72
F51D Mustang - Airfix 1:72 P-51D (original tooling)

 

[Airframes]

Looking good Evan. I'll get that CD off to you his week - honest!

 

[A4K]

Cheers Terry, just when ya get time mate! Flat tack myself.

 

[Wurger]

Great my friend.

 

[Wayne Little]

looking good Evan!

 

[N4521U]

The wings look kinda long on the Mustang...... hehe

And you Do Not want diamond files!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[A4K]

Cheers guys! Pics up tomorrow of latest progress.

 

[A4K]

As promised...

Me 262 especially looks a bit rugged, was concentrating on just getting the paint on rather than aesthetics. Airbrush didn't like the black paint either, which didn't help.

Used Model master paint for the Gloss Al on the mustang. Masked the black area with Tamiya tape and it stripped a layer of paint off the fuse when I removed it. You guys get that problem?
Do you guys gloss the first colour before masking for the next , or is there some other trick to avoid that -have to carefully airbrush the Al freehand to touch up now...

 

[N4521U]

How did you get the P-51 to turn into an 262???

 

[Capt. Vick]

Yeah Evan that's amazing! You are some builder brother!

 

[Airframes]

"It's a kinda Magic",
Good stuff Evan.
Always paint solid colours first, then mask them, and then paint the metallics. To reduce the risk of paint lifting, or 'picking' when removing the tape, run the tape between finger and thumb before use, to remove some of the tack. If using acrylics, do this two or three times.

 

[A4K]

Cheers guys! These are progress pics only - she'll be a Stuka when done!

Cheers for that advice Terry, will do that in future. - How would you go about masking dissimilar panels btw, being metal on metal ? Just extra low tack tape?
Speaking of which, I had stuck the tape to the work board a couple of times for that purpose, but wasn't enough it seems.

Next coats on this morning some time, pics up later.

 

[N4521U]

I use the Tamiya tape and don't experience it picking up paint.

 

[A4K]

I was surprised myself Bill. I suspect the Model Master paint dosen't have the b@lls the old Humbrol stuff did.

 

[Wayne Little]

I've not had problems with the Tamiya tape either but then I use Tamiya acrylics rather than the other paint brands...

doin' great Evan!

 

[N4521U]

I use Tamiya paint as well. Even the spray can stuff holds up real well, even to the green "Fine Line" auto painters tape.

 

[Airframes]

Evan, maybe the paint needs to cure longer before taping.
For masking for varying shades of metallic, ensure the paint has cured for at least 3 days before masking.
To test, smell it!
If it still smells distinctly of 'paint smell', then leave it a couple of more days. When ready, lightly rub a clean finger over the surface, and inspect both the finger, and the paint. If there are no obvious signs of paint on the finger, in the form of even just a slight sheen, and if there are no blemishes on the paint (from the finger), then it should be hard enough to mask.
If it is, then give the model a very light rub over with a clean, soft cloth, to remove any remaining loose metallic pigment.
Ensure that you remove most of the tack from the Tamiya (or similar low-tack) tape by employing the method previously described.When running the tape between finger and thumb, exert enough pressure to ensure that the tape has to be pulled against this pressure.
(Sticking the tape to the bench surface, or any other flat surface, only removes a tiny amount of tack, and also runs the risk of picking up unseen detritus, and / or even the very thin, virtually invisible, 'skin' layer of varnish from polished wood, or any grease or fine dust from other surfaces.)
Whenever possible, measure the area or panel to be masked, and cut the tape accordingly. Place it lightly on the area to be masked, and lightly press the edges in place all around. Ripples or creases in the central area of these masks can be ignored, as long as the masked area is covered, and the edges 'square'.
Spray the required area, keeping the airbrush at 90 degrees to the surface as much as possible, to avoid the possibility of 'cutting' under the mask. Spray lightly and quickly, passing over only the edges of the mask, misting the coat(s) in these areas, and continue to spray as normal elsewhere.
Don't worry about the possibility of an uneven effect around the mask(s) - if misted, it shouldn't show too prominently, and, it's supposed to be metal - there would be tonal variation due to reflection, grain of the alloy, and the orientation of each panel. (Once masks are removed, it's the contrast which is important, and this will reduce the effect of any initially perceived unevenness.)
As soon as possible after the paint has dried, lift each mask, at a convenient edge, with the point of a scalpel blade, and remove carefully, maintaining tension on the released part of the mask, until the mask is free.
Once the paint has fully cured (see above), lightly rub over with a clean, soft cloth.
Once finished, if desired, polish with a polishing powder, varying the amount of powder to achieve further varying effects, and ensure all powder is polished/removed from the model, before giving a further 'dry' polish with another, clean, soft cloth. (see the Bare Metal Guide I posted some time ago, for more info on bare metal finishes.)
Hope this helps.

 

[Wurger]

 

[A4K]

Cheers guys, and thanks for the advice Terry!

Yesterday's progress...

F-51D:
-Black masked and Aluminium retouched (Friday) ; Glossed for decaling yesterday (except the drop tanks - Doh!)

Me 262B-1a/U1:
-Sprayed RLM 76 uppers (Model Master), mottled with Humbrol 123 for RLM 74. Misted over with RLM 76 to soften mottles. Not perfect, but still quite pleased with the result, being my first air brush mottle attempt!
-Glossed and decaled, at 00:30.

Last pic:
-F-51D awaiting decaling, drop tank glossing and final paint work on exhausts. No time for doing the dissimilar panels now , but my mate's 7 year old son won't notice!
-Me 262 awaiting final gloss and Matt coats, final painting and attachment of last components, then a light control surface wash when done.
Making a stand of some sort to display her and protect the lower antenna, which will hang below the Jumo line.

 

[Wurger]