Thorlifter
Captain
Good work on the panels and other bits
1/48 Curtis Hawk 75 A-2 - Winter War / Eastern War WWII
- Thread starter chris brown
- Start date
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Great work, the cockpit is very nice.
you will add the flare cartridges on the left?
there were 4 with red tip, 4 green and 4 white, on the top
Do you think make the rivet lines?
many pictures show these areas in same color as underside because they were a part of the underside
you will add the flare cartridges on the left?
there were 4 with red tip, 4 green and 4 white, on the top
Do you think make the rivet lines?
many pictures show these areas in same color as underside because they were a part of the underside
Donivanp
Captain
Very nice work, I really like the cockpit work
- Thread starter
- #65
chris brown
Senior Airman
Thanks, I've got the fuselage glued up but I might still add the flares. I don't have a riveter so no rivets on this one. I've been thinking about the wheel well color and will probably at least have some overspray of the underside color in there. If I don't like the look of that then I will probably just paint it all the underside color. Most of the pics and drawings I have seen show the landing gear, covers and wheels in the underside color so it would make sense that when they did the repaints that it would get in the well also. The canvas covers were easily removed so I would assume they would not show any paint on them.
Good work so far!
dneid
Staff Sergeant
Absolutely lovely work there! Very nice job on the new panel scribing.
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Excellent work on the cockpit and engine!
- Thread starter
- #69
chris brown
Senior Airman
Well its been way to long since I have put an update up, so here goes.
I got the fuselage haves joined together without too many problems.
The fit at the back of the cockpit where the three pieces comes together is a little iffy so I would definitely hold off on gluing in the seat and frame until after this seem is filled.
A couple of pics of the pit in its place.
The holes in the fuselage in front of the pit are for the ring and bead sight. They should be offset to the right and not in the center. The kit comes with plastic ones that are a bit large but I will be using pe pieces instead. I used plastic rod and glue to fill the holes.
The fit of the kit overall is decent but some areas just don't line up well. An insert goes in here for the tail-wheel and it took a lot of plastic and putty to get it looking right.
I would recommend that you get the tail wheel insert worked out before gluing on the horizontal stabs. Trying to get sandpaper in here is tight. This area will still need some more attention to get it looking good.
Speaking of the horizontal stabs, after making sure they were nice and level I noticed that they did not line up at the back and no amount of persuasion I put on them would get them right. I should have pulled one off before the glue dried and worked on the mounting tab to get it to sit right. It's not noticeable to a casual observer but I'm pretty sure a judge would ding me for it. Oh well, I can live with it.
The area behind the pit is left empty on the kit but the plane has a large fuel tank that goes there so I fitted a piece of plastic in there to fill the void and represent the tank. Most of this space will be blocked by the seat and frame.
to be continued.....
I got the fuselage haves joined together without too many problems.
The fit at the back of the cockpit where the three pieces comes together is a little iffy so I would definitely hold off on gluing in the seat and frame until after this seem is filled.
A couple of pics of the pit in its place.
The holes in the fuselage in front of the pit are for the ring and bead sight. They should be offset to the right and not in the center. The kit comes with plastic ones that are a bit large but I will be using pe pieces instead. I used plastic rod and glue to fill the holes.
The fit of the kit overall is decent but some areas just don't line up well. An insert goes in here for the tail-wheel and it took a lot of plastic and putty to get it looking right.
I would recommend that you get the tail wheel insert worked out before gluing on the horizontal stabs. Trying to get sandpaper in here is tight. This area will still need some more attention to get it looking good.
Speaking of the horizontal stabs, after making sure they were nice and level I noticed that they did not line up at the back and no amount of persuasion I put on them would get them right. I should have pulled one off before the glue dried and worked on the mounting tab to get it to sit right. It's not noticeable to a casual observer but I'm pretty sure a judge would ding me for it. Oh well, I can live with it.
The area behind the pit is left empty on the kit but the plane has a large fuel tank that goes there so I fitted a piece of plastic in there to fill the void and represent the tank. Most of this space will be blocked by the seat and frame.
to be continued.....
- Thread starter
- #70
chris brown
Senior Airman
A couple more pics of progress...
I cut off the molded on cowl guns and will be replacing them with micro tubing.
I used brass tubing for the pushrods on the engine. I have been dreading doing these for some reason, but when I finally sat down to get it done, it took all of 5 minutes. Sometimes I just assume things are going to be a bigger pain than they are. I still need to add the plug wires and this engine will be done.
These access panels on the right side wing root got filled in. They should be on the left side only. Why is it that when you want to keep a panel line it will disappear as soon as sandpaper comes anywhere near it, but when you want one to disappear it takes 10 coats of putty and super glue to make it go away? I guess that's the joy of modeling!
A couple of shots of how she looks right now. The cowling is not glued on yet. I sprayed silver paint on to check seems and to use for chipping later. I think I'm going to try the hairspray method to do some chipping on the wing roots and other areas of wear.
Thanks for looking in. I'm just about done with touching up the seems, so maybe I can get some paint on this week. Ive got a Macchi 202 that is itching to be built for GB24 once I get done here.
I cut off the molded on cowl guns and will be replacing them with micro tubing.
I used brass tubing for the pushrods on the engine. I have been dreading doing these for some reason, but when I finally sat down to get it done, it took all of 5 minutes. Sometimes I just assume things are going to be a bigger pain than they are. I still need to add the plug wires and this engine will be done.
These access panels on the right side wing root got filled in. They should be on the left side only. Why is it that when you want to keep a panel line it will disappear as soon as sandpaper comes anywhere near it, but when you want one to disappear it takes 10 coats of putty and super glue to make it go away? I guess that's the joy of modeling!
A couple of shots of how she looks right now. The cowling is not glued on yet. I sprayed silver paint on to check seems and to use for chipping later. I think I'm going to try the hairspray method to do some chipping on the wing roots and other areas of wear.
Thanks for looking in. I'm just about done with touching up the seems, so maybe I can get some paint on this week. Ive got a Macchi 202 that is itching to be built for GB24 once I get done here.
Vic Balshaw
Major General
I had similar problems with my Hawk Chris, a few GB's back though this was a 'Must Have' kit and looking at the construction, it was possibly from the same mould. However, none are major problems and from what I see, it's all come good.
Looks good so far!
Great update Chris!
it's nice.
the big hole in the frame behind the seat was obstructed by an armor plate which has the same shape as the hole, so the fuel tank was not visible by this place when the seat was removed.
On the wing, the gun doors are smaller and there was not a large panel on the leading edge
the big hole in the frame behind the seat was obstructed by an armor plate which has the same shape as the hole, so the fuel tank was not visible by this place when the seat was removed.
On the wing, the gun doors are smaller and there was not a large panel on the leading edge
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- Thread starter
- #76
chris brown
Senior Airman
Good to know about the armour behind the seat. The drawings I used came from Monografie Lotnicze book on the P-36 Hawk family and show larger gun access panels. I can't say which ones are correct, but good to have the info. The panel lines by the gun barrels definitely need to be changed. I hadn't caught that. By the way, I love that Iranian P-36 you are building.
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I have never seen a large gun doors. This detail was a same for A2 to A9 version and H 81 and with the Colt .30, Madsen 7,5mm or Browning 7,5mm....
I draw from original data and I could compare the structural wing and panelling of H75, 81 and 87 wings)
Below the layers "structural" + "guns 7.5 Browning"
When I made the iranian hawk I am wrong about these doors, I made larger than real, so I fill them after, then to engrave again.
It's the reason why I know about these doors
Thanks for your compliment about my Hawk.
Corrected or not it's a choice, now you know, but here, habitually we say: the best is the enemy of the good.
Cordially
Waroff
I draw from original data and I could compare the structural wing and panelling of H75, 81 and 87 wings)
Below the layers "structural" + "guns 7.5 Browning"
When I made the iranian hawk I am wrong about these doors, I made larger than real, so I fill them after, then to engrave again.
It's the reason why I know about these doors
Thanks for your compliment about my Hawk.
Corrected or not it's a choice, now you know, but here, habitually we say: the best is the enemy of the good.
Cordially
Waroff
- Thread starter
- #78
chris brown
Senior Airman
I must say, that drawing looks pretty convincing. Now I just have to convince myself to fill and re-scribe the doors.
fubar57
General
Nice correction Chris. I encountered the same problems with my build.
Geo
Geo
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Good progress! I'm impressed with the details you added and also the quality of the details on the kit itself.
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