<-- 1/48 Mosquito PR.IX -Twin Engined Aircraft WWII

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Hi terry

It still looks very good to me, but that final surface finish has got to be frustrating for you. I know that you brush painted the clear topcoats, but that rough finish looks all the world like "Orange Peel" effect to me . I just don't know how that can happen with a brush application . According to my spray painting mates the causes for Orange Peel effect can be

  1. Spray gun held too far from object (NOT RELEVANT).
  2. Spray pressure too low (poor atomisation) (IS THERE A PAINT BRUSH EQUIVALENT).
  3. Paint film too thin.
  4. Viscosity too high.(paint too thick).
  5. Hardener and/or thinner too fast for the conditions or size of object.
  6. Spray nozzle too small.
  7. Flash-off time too long between coats (HMM....)
 
Thanks chaps.

Michael, I agree that it looks like 'orange peel', but I assure you, that's the texture of the plastic, under the primer and two coats of paint, plus the clear coats.
The original (1980) kit parts for the underside of the wings, and both upper and lower parts for the tail-planes, are 'smooth' plastic, and do not exhibit the same coarse texture. The gloss clear coat on these areas has settled well, and is smooth, gloss overall.
As Kirby suggested, I'll concentrate on getting those areas where decals will go, smooth and even - when the final matt clear coat is applied, the 'pebbled' areas will, or should, look OK, as it's the gloss coat that is emphasising the texture.
The fuselage (new parts) also has the pebbled texture, but, being curved, is not as noticeable and, after further coats of gloss clear, is starting to get there.
It's not a major problem, as, after sufficient gloss clear, once the decals are done, the final clear matt will balance out things, but it's a pain in the Rs having to spend time going over the same areas again and again, and having to wait so many hours before progressing,
 
After SC Johnston changed the Future formula I could never get a decent gloss with flat paint, even with as many as 4 or 5 brushed on coats. What I do now is put on 2 brushed coats, then use Futuepre to wet the surface instead of water when applying the decals. I than place a bit of damp paper towel over the decal and press out the excess Future starting in the middle and working to the edges of the decal using a rolling motion with my finger. Clean up around the decal perimeter with a Windex soaked Q-Tip and apply setting solution if needed. The next day do more cleanup with the Q-Tip if needed them brush Future on the decal and sorounding area to seal.
It's a more labor intensive method, but since I've started doing decals this way several years ago I have not had one case of silvering, and as for that decal messI went through with the A-20 the other night, I'm pretty sure a lot of those decals didn't have any glue left on them and it was the Future that made them stick.
 
I have seen videos and read articles on others using that approach for older decals that lost their glue, and they all report good results Glenn. I have a kit in my stash, a Revell P-61 that was made and boxed in the 80's and the decals look iffy to me so I have added your technique to my notebook for future reference!

Terry I can imagine your frustration, but your results look great! Keep on keeping on with the work you have put in detailing this kite it will certainly be a great one for the display case!
 
Thanks very much Glenn and Robert.
I had to stop using Johnson's Klear (Future) when the formula changed, as it caused many problems. However, I have used it for applying decals which have lost their adhesive backing, although I now use the Humbrol Gloss Clear instead.
I think I've now got the model smooth enough to apply the decals, although the really 'textured' areas are still a little .. er... textured !
It's now had four full coats, applied by brush, and an extra coat on areas where larger decals will go, particularly the radiator covers.
I'm going to leave it for around 24 hours, before trying any decals, just to make sure the (now heavy) varnish has really hardened.
Meanwhile, it's back to the FB.VI build.
 
I am getting really p*ssed off with this !
After applying all that gloss clear, the surface, though far from perfect, is 'good enough' to accept decals and, having left it to harden from Friday afternoon until around 20.30 hrs tonight, UK time, I started to apply the main decals.
Bl**dy awful results !
The kit decals are rather thick, and need a shed load of 'Micro Sol' just to get then to bend, let alone settle into or over surface detail.
I've called a halt for now, and will wait to see if the roundels settle, as shown below. If not, then they'll be removed, and I'll replace them with roundels from Xtradecal sheets.
I certainly won't be using the kit stencils, and will replace these with the ones from the Aviaeology sheets.

PICS 1 and 2. I was expecting problems with the fairly large warning panels on the radiator covers, and sure enough, they displayed a matt finish. Not surprising, given the size of the 'clear' area, but the same decals in the Tamiya kits go on without problems. Once removed, this is what the surface looked like, although a 'wash down' has improved things slightly. I think I'll try brush-painting neat Xtracolor PRU Blue gloss onto this area, and then use the Aviaeology decals.
PIC 3. The wing roundels are having problems settling, even after the World's supply of 'Micro Sol' has been brushed on, and these, and the fuselage roundels, have a matt 'halo' around the periphery. This might disappear when clear coated, but if they don't settle, they're getting binned and replaced with Xtradecal items.
PIC 4. For what it's worth, this is how the model looks to date.

I'll have another go at this tomorrow, but if things don't go according to plan, this model will be set asie for a while, as I'm wasting too much time when I should, by now, be moving on to the other 46 Squadron models.


 
Rochie is right terry, those decals are not going to serve you well. My two bobs worth is ditch em and look for after market replacements.

For what its worth at normal magnification the decals are fine. Close up though they are not being kind to you.
 
Thanks for the kind words chaps.
I was in two minds whether to use the kit decals in the first place, and should have used roundels from the Xtradecal sheets I have.
However, I've just inspected the model, roughly 90 minutes after applying the wing roundels, and they look like they're settling down.
It also looks like the 'halo' around the roundels is settling, and should disappear once gloss coated and then matt clear coated.
I've painted the radiator panels in gloss Xtaracolor PRU Blue, and all other decals will now be sourced from the Aviaeology sheets, plus the serial numbers from the files.
On the down side, one of the carb intake ice guards has gone AWOL, so it looks like those for the FB.VI model will have to be used, and use the kit guards on that model.
As Percy 'Pick' Pickard used to say "There's always a bl**dy something "!
 
Pleased to announce that the roundels have finally settled down, and it looks like the 'halo' will disappear when clear coated.
I'm aiming to get the Aviaeology decals on later today, if I can stop sniffing and feeling like a bag of s*it - got another cold, and feel bl**dy awful !
 
Thanks chaps.
Going to give it a miss tonight, as my nose is definitely not behaving - maybe a couple of glasses of Scottish White Wine and some sleep will help, then back at it tomorrow.
The more I see that textured surface, the more I just want to forget this one, but, after a matt clear coat, I'm hoping it will be at least passable,
 
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