1/48th Revell/Monogram B-17G "Yankee Lady"

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Good question. I have no idea how old it is. I just know that it doesn't suit my rather disorganized style of modeling. I'm a little go careless in handling.

Progress is coming fast and furious. I painted the turbos today. I started with a base coat of Tamiya Boat Deck Tan which closely resembled the basic red/tan color of the real ones. After drying I painted the dark parts Tamiya Burnt Iron. The central turbo area was painted straight Burnt Iron and the rest was dry-brushed at various levels to also resemble the discoloration due to heat. I then went back and painted the bolts and clamps flat black. The end result works for me.

Turbo%20Painting.jpg


The final step will be to apply some exhaust plume eminating from the waste gate. I was thinking about airbrushing the flat black, but may just use Dr. Brown's weathering powders, since it's easier to control. Not shown in this pic was the Tamiya Smoke that I used to discolor the first nacelle ring behind the cowl flats. I also dry-brushed some smoke trailing off the sides of the turbo which I've seen on prototype images. The main exhaust stain will be directly behind.

I then finished up all the machine gun mounts that go into the radio room window and waist gun position. I also rebuilt the broken barrels on both bombardier position guns. One is in place now (probably ready to be broken again) and the other is waiting until the mask comes off the nose.

I then officially started the decal process. We've moved our travel date out one day which gives me one more shop day and almost assures that I will finish on time. The Kits decals are very nice and went on well. Here's the tail on one side. I have to wait until the decals fully cure so I could do the right side.

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And then I officially christened this ship, "Yankee Lady" with the nose decals on the left side being installed.

Yankee%20Lady%20Decal.jpg


Having the prototype picture showing this graphic in detail really helped in getting it placed properly. I wish this model had recessed panel lines. It would have made it much easier to clean up. Notice that the nose turret has a different finish that the plane in general. I used Tamiya Bare Metal spray for this. I also changed the tone on the Cheyene tail turret.

Wings were next. Again, top side first until the decals dry and then I'll do the bottom.

Decal%20Progress.jpg


Notice that my wing walk decal is not finished in this picture. That's because I ran into trouble with them. Even though I over-coated them with Tamiya Clear Lacquer, it wasn't sufficient to prevent water from causing the inkjet water-soluble ink to bleed. Bleed? Heck, it really got gross.

Decal%20Destruction.jpg


The long stripes did get on, but the surface is questionable. After this I stopped putting them on and went to Plan B. Plan B was to coat the existing decals with Microsol Liquid Decal Film. I'll give this a try tomorrow. Part of the problem was that I didn't leave enough margin between images. The edges are too narrow and let the water to creep in under the over-coating. Hopefully the Microsol will provide stronger protection. If this doesn't work, I'll re-draw the set and leave more space around the edges. If that doesn't work, I'll mask and paint, but I dread to do that since I'll have to deal with more aluminum paint drama. I'm not looking forward to that.

Sub-par%20Decals.jpg


The idea is still a good one, but the decal film may be sub-par. I'm optimistic that I'll figure it out. I believe in "Test Pilot Problem Solving". You're in a dive and you try A, B, C, D, E, F, G, etc. until you solve the problem or make a hole in the ground. Like I said a while ago, "I am not a patient man, put I am very, very persistent!"

Need some guidance here: After decaling I was going to Dullcoat the model, but that would effectively kill the shine on the metal finish. Otherwise, I could gloss coat the whole deal, but would that work? What do others do with bare metal surfaced aircraft?
 
Looking good so far.
On bare metal finishes, I tend not to apply a clear coat overall, as this can effect the appearance of the 'metal' finish, giving it a grainy, painted look.
However, I do apply a clear coat to the decal areas, only just overlapping the edges of the decals, in order to seal them. I normally use a semi-matt to 'just below gloss' finish for this, depending on how the real aircraft looked, applied by brush.
 
I use lacquer-based Alclad paints for bare metal finishes and apply decals right onto the finish without a clear coat before or after. I have sprayed a flat finish over some decals afterward when such a finish was desired but I stayed away from the paint.
 
Thanks for the input! As you'll read, I did use Dullcoat selectively. I really don't like natural metal finishes especially since I can't spray solvent-based airbrush products since I don't have a spray booth.

Whew! Today was a mixed bag of successes and horrors equally balanced. I will elucidate as I go on.

I started by finishing up the stripes. Microsol Liquid Decal Film worked like a charm. The inkjet color stayed put and the decals applied very nicely. This brand of inkjet decal paper has a pretty heavy decal film and takes a lot of Microsol setting solution to lay it down over raised details. As I said before, DON'T USE SOLVASET! It will dissolve these decals. Next up was all the rest of the decals and all went on without difficulty. I then sealed them all and

After things dried I used Dr Brown's grimy black weathering powder to lay down the exhaust stains. Looks sloppy, but I kind of like it.

Exhaust%20Stains%202.jpg


After doing this I shot the bottom with Dullcoat so the turbos are no longer shiny. With all the decoration done I started to install all the remaining glazing including the Cheyenne tail. This was a bit more challenging than I would have liked, but I did get it on without a serious screwup.

Cheyenne%20Tail.jpg


I also installed the top turret, the guns for the tail turret and fixed the broken guns in the front...AGAIN, but that wasn't the last time.

Then the first calamity happened. I wanted to use this new Real Metal buffing aluminum by AK Interactive. It's a wax-based metal paint that polishes bright. When I opened the tube for the first time, the stuff blasted out all over the place, but mostly on my hands. It was a freak'n mess to clean up, but luckily alcohol removes it. I used it on the prop spinners and it worked pretty well.

Props%20Installed%201.jpg


Boy those engines look cool! As far as I'm concerned, they're the best part of this whole project. Too bad the Monogram kit doesn't measure up to those Eduard R-1860s. The props are held on with medium CA.

After putting the guns back on, which entailed more micro-drilling and guitar string, I wanted to paint the muzzles with Tamiya Chrome, which then leads to the second calamity.

I thought the lid was screwed on, but when I picked it up, the bottle part flew off, flung chrome silver paint all over the floor and even a drop landed right on the red surface of the horizontal stab. Of course it landed on the red. It couldn't have landed on the entire silver-colored plane. Nope! Murphy's corroletion is still true, "Any tool (or bottle of paint) dropped will always do the maximum amount of damage."

I cleaned up that mess and touched up the stab. Then I proceeded to break off the bombardier and waist gunner gun barrels on the port side. These very fragile resin barrels are ridiculous. They have no give. If you touch them, they will break. Again, I re-drilled the barrels and breaches and, with more E Guitar string, CA'd them back again.

The Aleen's mask removal went well except for two windows. A true liquid mask might be better if you have it.

Glazing%20Cleared.jpg


This pic shows the nose dome on. In the process of applying liquid cement, I didn't realize that some had already run out onto my fingers until upon trying to remove them found a huge glue thumb print on the bottom quadrant. Another calamity!

I wet sanded it out and then gave it some Pledge (with Future) acrylic and it's less noticeable. Still there... just less noticeable. I'm not having much luck with clear parts on this model.

Time to install the wings. You do not need to glue them. It's a lock joint. With the wings on I felt confident enough to install the bomb bay doors and the forward crew door. They actually went on easily.

Bomb%20Bay%20Doors%20Install.jpg


The PE here really works giving the sheet metal look to both surfaces. Lastly, I put on the wheels (although not yet glued) and got the weight spot in the right position, and put the plane on a flat surface to take some "almost complete" pictures. I say, "almost" since I still have to put on the landing light lenses. And then I just touched that port-side waist gun barrel, and BANG! It broke again. I'm running out of patience. And more imprortantly, running out of gun barrel. I have no more resin barrels other than this stub. I may, heaven forbid, have to use one of the plastic barrels. They may not be scale, but they're styrene and bend a bit before breaking. I will now have to do that repair tomorrow along with the landing lights.

So here are some "almost finished" pics shot with the iPhone. When finished tomorrow, I will take it with Canon EOS and do depth-of-field work on it.

Almost%20Finished%202.jpg


Almost%20Finished%201.jpg


There still some work to do around that ill-fitting nose dome that this picture really shows up.

Almost%20Finished%203.jpg


SO... now that we're heading back East on Friday instead of tomorrow, I will definitely be able to finish it. That is if I don't break anything else.
 
Thanks guys! Today is the official end of project day. IMHO this is a good build, but not a great one because A) it's a crappy kit to start with, and B) I screwed up enough stuff (especially those miserable cockpit windows). That being said, let me get into the final steps. First of all, here are the "official" beauty pics created with my Canon EOS and ZereneStacker depth-of-field software.

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I started the day wanted to scratch-build the football antenna since I somehow must have thrown it out with one of the sprues. I'm usually pretty careful about making sure that any parts left and unneeded, but I must have missed that one. I drew a scale profile of this part and then made a bunch of duplicate parts that would be glued together and profiled.

Football%20Failure%201.jpg


After gluing them all together I started filing away everything that didn't look like a football antenna. All went well until the base piece was breaking due to the filing stresses. I attempted to insert some brass wire to reinforced, but this too didn't quite work.

Football%20Failure%202.jpg


Then I was left with filing just the round part. I figured that after I got it shaped, I would fabricate a separate base. Then it launched out of the pliers. I heard it hit something, but that was just the quantum rift opening and swallowing up the part. With that, I decided the plane didn't need any "stink'n" football.

Next up was the landing lights. I put some Bare-Metal-Foil in the space prior to using Canopy Cement to hold the glazing in place.

Landing%20Light%20foil.gif


And then I installed the lens.

Landing%20Light%20Complete.gif


The model needed some antennas. There is a short, straight one on the bottom and a double one to the tail. The bottom antenna originally had a couple of plastic pins that long ago broke off in all the seam fixing. I had drilled a couple on 0.021" holes for some brass wire of the same size. Today I added the brass and tied E-Z Line to the two points. If you've never used this product, I believe it's actually Lycra elastic fiber. It takes CA instantly and is very easy to use and, since it is highly elastic, it holds its tension and will not break if you happen to run into it... which I do repeatedly.

Bottom%20Antenna.gif


For the top antenna, I believed that the two plastic lugs protruding from the port and starboard sides of the radio room were the feed throughs for this antenna. I drilled holes there to accept the line. The tail also has a lug that I drlled for the other end. The antenna needs an insulator at the top end. I tried to make one out of small diameter styrene rod drilled to accept two pieces of E-Z Line. This didn't work very well so I substituted a couple of black seed beads which were much easier to thread.

Top%20Antenna.gif


Last up was replacing the last broken Verlinden gun barrel. I began to realize that doing the same thing again and again and expecting a different outcome was a symptom of insanity (Albert Einstein). I decided to substitue steel for that resin. I found a piece of floral wire (0.046") that closely approximated the resin barrel. I turned the muzzle shape by chucking the wire into my Dremel Flexishaft handpiece and shaping it with a diamond-coated file. It doesn't have cooling holes, but you can't really tell. Not the barrel WILL NOT BREAK, but the gun can still be knocked out the window.

With that, the model is complete! I painted the figures and am including them with the model. The last thing I needed to do (besides cleaning up the shop...) is figuring how to bring it to Philly tomorrow. I came up with this.

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Nothing on the model is touching anything except the outer wings and the tail behind the tail wheel. Hot glued straps hold everthing down and the peice of foam keeps it from bouncing up and down. It's a good use for a Costco box. It will sit on top of any luggage and not have anything near it. It should work.

So, until the next plastic project, thank you all for following along.
 
Glad you got her done. Looks good.

As for your shipping container, I'd be worried that you will find your paint damaged where your lower wing surfaces contact the box edges. There will be rubbing from the many vibrations during driving.
 
Yeah, put some soft foam or at least some cloth on that cardboard edge!
 
Well done.
For future reference, when having to make items such as the D/F 'football', it's easier to mould them using 'Milliput' 2-part epoxy putty.
 
One final note. The model made it successfully to Philadelphia without a single bad thing happening. The new owner was very happy with the result and is now talking to me about building the 1/32 HKW B-17 with some enhancements. It's not a done deal, but it would be fun.
 
Next up will probably be the 1:32 Trumpeter ABM Avenger for which I purchased and received two Eduard PE sets: interior and engine. I'm waiting for canopy masks from my local hobby shop, but their wholesaler seems to be unable to deliver. In fact, I had ordered the masking set for the B-17 and they never arrived so I did them all by hand. With all those canopy details on the Avenger, I'd really like to have the masks.

Meanwhile, work continues apace on my model railroad and I have a commissioned project waiting to be done: a 1:48 model of the 1870 Bernheim Bros. Bourbon Distillery. I scratch-built one of these for my railroad and was asked to build another for Heaven Hill's Bourbon Experience tourist attraction in Downtown Louisville, KY. Here's what it looks like.

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The model was based on a photograph of the building that resides in the lobby of Heaven Hill's Louisville distillery. I wanted to model a Bourbon facility since I live in the Bourbon capital of the world, and this picture really caught my interest.

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Since this is a WW2 aircraft site, I won't regale anyone with the details of how I took this picture and turned it into a model. But, if there is interest, you know me, I won't be bashful.
 

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