Consolidated B-24D LIBERATOR; 1/48 Revell

[SANCER]

With the taste of always I greet you.
It's been a busy days without being able to sit down and work on my monster.

I share the small progress ...
I worked on the bottom and side panels lines, the rear turret, bomb gates and landing gear.

... before I start with the top ...

The whole set of pieces that will carry the color U.K. Azure (71.108 from Model Air)
(Already missed seeing the wings and the rear stabilizer)

I was about to cover the moats of the landing gear of the wings and the turbochargers, ... when a doubt arose and I came upon another detail:

The experience gained in the past National Modeling IPMS Mexico, talking and feedback with several of the judges, with reference to my Me262 (which I thought was my best model built ), made me see that the details in the turbine, interior of the Cockpit and moats of the landing gear were "fine"; However the problem was in the paint ... (correct colors and weathering), ... but the paint was slightly "porous", which on the actual scale would make a surface like cobbled!
And that was what really left me out of some qualification ... and that was more than enough!

With all the fuselage, after applying the primer and the lines of panels, I worked on polishing and softening it as much as possible with 8000, 12000 sandpaper and a thin cloth (to clean glasses) and it looks good the result before applying the colors .
However the bottom of the wings and the stabilizer, I can see porous! , and if I add the blue layer, it will get worse! ... so ...now ... I find myself in the arduous task of smoothing the best possible to have a really smooth surface throughout the aircraft.

I have to take great care of these details when it comes to painting, as well as having a good mix of paint and thinner and other shades for the base colors, and variations of the monochrome, without losing the shading of the lines of panels (Bearing in mind that Those are embossed)

I'm getting into new territory and unknown to me , I hope to get the best of these new experiences !!

I have to go calmly and cautiously ... Suggestions are received!

Jajaja...!, seguimos en contacto

 

[Robert Porter]

Wow, not sure how to address that, but eagerly awaiting someone that does.

 

[Wurger]

 

[F-104nut]

Looking fantastic as always . Not sure what to tell you

Brian

 

[Crimea_River]

Thin your paint more Luis Carlos. It will end up smoother but you will need to do a few trials to get the optimum mix and pressure. Depending on the paint, you might end up with 60 or even 70% thinner.

 

[SANCER]

Thin your paint more Luis Carlos. It will end up smoother but you will need to do a few trials to get the optimum mix and pressure. Depending on the paint, you might end up with 60 or even 70% thinner.

That's what I'm going to do ... the paintings will be Model Air by Vallejo and I have their own thinner. I'll try 50-60% thinner with low pressure ...maybe 7-10 PSI...
Precisely I'm ready to start painting ... so your comment is very timely! Many thanks Andy, ... later I upload the photos of part of the preparation of the surfaces to be painted as well as the fun and entertaining way to mask the turbochargers and moats of the landing gear.
See you soon!

 

[Robert Porter]

I use Vallejo Air myself, I have a .035 needle I use and I typically spray at 10-15 PSI, I thin it with their thinner to about 70% paint to 30% thinner and add a couple of drops of flow improver as well. Also try moving the airbrush closer to your work. If I get much more than 5 inches away mine tends to start splattering because the paint is drying before it hits the model.

 

[Crimea_River]

Never used the stuff but I thought that Model Air is supposed to be pre-thinned already so be careful with that Luis Carlos. It may not need thinning at all or, as Robert said, just a bit.

 

[SANCER]

I use Vallejo Air myself, I have a .035 needle I use and I typically spray at 10-15 PSI, I thin it with their thinner to about 70% paint to 30% thinner and add a couple of drops of flow improver as well. Also try moving the airbrush closer to your work. If I get much more than 5 inches away mine tends to start splattering because the paint is drying before it hits the model.

Will these flow improver drops be the equivalent of a few drops of water with a minimum of liquid detergent for dishes?
I think the mix I will use will be 50/50 because of the raised panels; I will still have the opportunity to make more passes that are needed inside each panel.

Thanks Rob for your interest and support.
Un fuerte abrazo amigo

 

[Robert Porter]

I typically use this stuff:

You can get it on Amazon or most art supply or craft stores. Vallejo makes their own and I have used it with no issues. The stuff above is less expensive by volume and works fine with Tamiya, Vallejo and pretty much any acrylic even the synthetic ones.

 

[SANCER]

Good data Rob , I have seen that product of Vallejo in the modeling stores I frequent. I will try that option from above (that for that brand, must be good ... and cheaper), ... there are options to find it here in Mexico City.

But that will be later, ... I have the option of a couple of drops with soapy water and I WANT TO START TO PAINT !!

As I said in the morning, these are the images of what I have advanced so far ...
Again the quality of the photographs does not help me, but the first two photos are with the rough surface and after enough time and dedication, supposedly the next two already have the smooth surface ...

I really enjoyed this stage in which I started to mask the turbochargers and the landing gear moats.
First with Tamiya tape trying to cover the largest space in the TC and most of the walls of the moats ...

... with pieces and strips of moistened napkins I covered the base of the moats (it was a very entertaining work ... )

... but here the process did not finish, ... in the following sequence I conclude with the masking ...
I'll be back ...

 

[Wurger]

 

[SANCER]

... with MM and a medium brush, I masked the voids and walls of the turbochargers, as well as the exit space of the underside of the cowlings (I do not know the technical name) Them will go in matt black color to simulate depth.

... and also the whole contour of the moats between the tape and the paper (to leave no gap) ... and brush was easier to cover those areas where the legs of the landing gear rest and makes the certainty of Cover such irregular spaces.

... I liked the job, I hope it really works as I expect.


This is an overview of my work area.

With this I leave and I will give myself the time to start with the exterior painting, which I have so promised and talked about for so long !!

We remain in contact and thank you for your "Tantas y Tantas" (so many) visits.

Saludos cordiales

 

[fubar57]

Looking forward to it Luis. I have some Model Air amongst my paint stash but I'm using up the others first unless I have no choice.

 

[Wurger]

 

[JKim]

Looks great Luis! In response to your dilemma, I would say the same thing as Andy... thin your paint more. I have never used Vallejo paints but with Tamiya acrylics, I commonly thin my exterior color mixes to be approximately 4:1 or 3:1 (thinner to paint ratio). This is much thinner than normally recommended but it is a good way to get a very smooth paint finish. One key to using highly thinned paints is to keep the airbrush moving. It's very easy for the thinned paint to pool and run if you pause the airbrush on one spot too long. The other key is to slowly build up your coat of paint using many passes over the same area.

 

[SANCER]

Looks great Luis! In response to your dilemma, I would say the same thing as Andy... thin your paint more. I have never used Vallejo paints but with Tamiya acrylics, I commonly thin my exterior color mixes to be approximately 4:1 or 3:1 (thinner to paint ratio). This is much thinner than normally recommended but it is a good way to get a very smooth paint finish. One key to using highly thinned paints is to keep the airbrush moving. It's very easy for the thinned paint to pool and run if you pause the airbrush on one spot too long. The other key is to slowly build up your coat of paint using many passes over the same area.

Very good recommendation John.
In my short experience it is clear to me that the paintings of Tamiya are excellent and I am forming a very interesting stock. However I have also been buying Model Air paintings with color tones that have complemented the variety needs. And as already mentioned, they come more diluted, which makes them work directly to the airbrush. Under normal conditions.

These recommendations and suggestions from all of you are very useful, it has really been my job to discover that the process of exterior painting of the models is crucial for a good overall result. And I love to keep learning and improving my skills ... and I will not tire of repeating that I love this in what I keep getting more deeply into.

Thank you all for all your help.

Siempre suyo,
Luis Carlos

 

[Gnomey]

Lovely work so far!

 

[Airframes]

It's looking good Luis, and I agree with Andy and John.
I very rarely use acrylic paints, but with these, or enamels, thin the paint, and keep the airbrush moving. It's better to build-up the colour with a number of light passes, rather than try to cover in one go. If the finish is 'patchy', then another thin coat or two, applied after the first paint is fully dry, should do the trick.

 

[turbo]

Looking good Luis.

I echo the comments of others re. painting. Thin your paints and build up the colour using multiple light passes for a good finish. This method has the added advantage of allowing you more control over fading and diffusion effects especially if you are using pre-shading.

Also, don't spray from too far away from the model, which can be a temptation particularly when you are doing broad coverage basecoats. The paint can begin to dry before it hits the model which results in a grainy finish.