Consolidated B-24D LIBERATOR; 1/48 Revell

[SANCER]

Following up the best option suggested by Andy (post # 706), so began the step by step of this solution to my error in the back turret.
So many things I've done for the first time in my modeling history, only with my Lib! ... the price and value of the experience acquired enriches the taste for what we do.

Recycling a piece of Tamiya white tape, I used it as a guide for cutting the piece ...

I liked how the lower sides of the turret were initially. The joining of the pieces was practically invisible.

This is the main area to which I will remove the paint and I will also take advantage to remove those MKK spills so visible!

With a new knife I will start the detachment of both parts. I will follow Robert's kind advice (post # 705)

... later I share the success of applying this technique, thanks for joining me.

 

[SANCER]

 

[SANCER]

... relatively simple, it's just a matter of doing it slowly and slowly ...

With the same knife I started to remove the exterior paint, trying to demarcate the area to be cleaned and later with a Q'tip moistened with isopropyl alcohol, I began to remove the layer of Primer (with this I avoided damaging the glass), I did the same at the Interior only with the Q'tip with IA.

I returned to join the pieces, this time only from the bottom (from where the glass starts, down) with Tamiya ETC and with rubber bands we ensured the correct join.
The next day, to my surprise, the join was a little slipped to the side ...

I no longer wanted to separate the pieces again ; So I better decided to sand the defect, to match the whole contour, to make the bubble as smooth as possible.
For this I used a sand files from # 80 to # 600

... I liked the finish ... (first step)

So far the advance for today.

Tomorrow I'll polish that bubble with sandpaper from # 3200 to # 12000
Before joining the pieces I had already polished the inside of the bubble and I think it was fine.

Until next time ... good night from here ...

 

[Wurger]

Nicely done so far.

 

[fubar57]

Very, very impressive!!

 

[Crimea_River]

Nice. Make sure that the seam is fully sealed, otherwise you will get dirty water from the sanding seeping in.

 

[SANCER]

Nice. Make sure that the seam is fully sealed, otherwise you will get dirty water from the sanding seeping in.

Thanks for the advice Andy, in the join of what is the "metal part" I will use some putty to recover the finish that I had before.
As I have not put any glue in the transparent join of the bubble, to avoid what you tell me about the residue of the dust from the sanding, I will blow with the airbrush through one of the slits of the machine guns, to remove any dust that could remain inside.
It occurs to me to seal the join with gloss varnish (thinner than MKK) using the tip of a fine brush. The idea, as you say, is just to seal, and once dry, then start with the fine sandpaper, until polishing the entire bubble. What do you think?

 

[Airframes]

Very nice work Luis.
To polish the turret, try using a car body colour restorer - in the UK one bran is 'T Cut' - or a mild metal polish. Toothpaste also works as a fine finishing polish.
Apply the polish with a Q tip, and polish off with a soft cloth, using the polish sparingly, and repeating the process until happy with the result.

 

[SANCER]

Very nice work Luis.
To polish the turret, try using a car body colour restorer - in the UK one bran is 'T Cut' - or a mild metal polish. Toothpaste also works as a fine finishing polish.
Apply the polish with a Q tip, and polish off with a soft cloth, using the polish sparingly, and repeating the process until happy with the result.

Thanks for the advice Terry, after sanding with # 3200 to # 12000, I have on hand Novus 2, I will apply it as you say with a Q-tip and with a soft and clean cloth, do the rest.
I do not have car wax at home and I've never tried it with toothpaste. And the ones we have at home are very colorful and do not inspire confidence for what we want.

I'm going to try it at the end with my Dremel pillow pad to polish.

It has been a difficult week with much work and unveiled, ... I think I'm going to rest Saturday, maybe I work on finishing the turret sometime on Sunday.

Saludos mi estimado amigo

 

[Airframes]

The car body colour restorer is not a car polish as such - it's for removing scratches - and it can normally be found in either various colours, or just 'plain', which is a milky light yellowish brown, the same as metal polish.
Metal polish for brass can be used too, although test it, and use it thinly, as it can sometimes make clear plastic brittle.
The type of colour restorer I've been using id the same as T-Cut, but from a national car accessory chain in the UK, called Halford's.
The pics below show the removal of a canopy frame, the application of the restorer, and what it looks like, and the canopy after being polished.
Toothpaste will do the same job, but takes longer, with multiple applications, and works best on fine scratches, rather than heavily-sanded areas.

 

[Gnomey]

Lovely work so far!

 

[F-104nut]

Holly shit Luis that is looking freaking sweet buddy

 

[turbo]

Nice work Luis, these little dramas help you build your skill set up!

 

[SANCER]

Let's see how this bubble remains. What a clean job Terry , thank you for sharing it.
Your advice and experience are very enriching.

Holly shit Luis that is looking freaking sweet buddy

That is the enthusiasm that infects; Thanks for your words, Brian.

Nice work Luis, these little dramas help you build your skill set up!

Thank you very much for your words Kirby.
(Philosophizing a little )
In my learning by modeling, much of what I have learned is having fun facing challenges and practicing, ... and this gives you confidence in your skills.
Never stop learning is the important thing and with the unconditional and disinterested help of those who have a longer path already traveled, it is a compliment that I appreciate.

That is the law of life. Life in all aspects presents us with challenges and opportunities disguised as calamities; Facing them and overcoming them is a matter for each one.

Saludos y excelente inicio de semana a todos

 

[JKim]

This build has progressed significantly while I was away. I really like the camo colors on this bird. Don't quite understand the reasons for sawing off the rear turret but it seems to be coming back together nicely.

 

[SANCER]

This build has progressed significantly while I was away. I really like the camo colors on this bird. Don't quite understand the reasons for sawing off the rear turret but it seems to be coming back together nicely.

Thanks John (how nice to hear about your return - it must have been a very interesting trip).
If you can check from post # 698, I commented about an error on my part at the rear turret with an error in the correct shape of the glass bubble.
Thanks to the support of several colleagues from the forum, they helped me to make the decision and the best way to do it to solve it. I hope you like it.
Best regards.

 

[Wayne Little]

Damn fine work there Luis...!

 

[T Bolt]

Here's an option for you
1:48 Squadron Canopies B-24J Liberator Canopies - SQ9571

Even though it says B-24J, The canopy will fit your B-24D. The included top turret glass is the wrong type for a "D" though.

 

[Airframes]

Glenn, there's also a canopy and nose glazing set for the 'D' version - see Post # 687.

 

[SANCER]

Thank you for your words Wayne and Glenn, how nice to see you accompanying us in this process, ... long and slow, but very fun and entertaining, with so much information, images and good advice.
Saludos amigos