CORSAIR F4U-4; 1/48, Revell

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Great work! I would suggest possibly plasticard to fill the hole from beneath. The mastic may shrink back on you but was not sure what you were using?
Hello Robert, I used the Squadron Green Putty (the same one I used to reinforce the holes inside the fuselage - post # 55 -).
I also thought to use a piece of styrene, but I wanted to try and with this putty it hard enough, and I have not noticed that it shrinks backwards. The tapes I used are from Tamiya and not to put the side of the adhesive to where I would put the putty, I put it inside out and fixed it with others above it.
Today early in the morning I removed the tapes and looks good, the appearance is slightly rough, but I think with Mr.Surfacer 1000 or 1200, it will be presentable.
I think I'll still let her harden more, I can work on other things while.

Thank you for your interest and comments, I hope I have been sufficiently clear with my explanation.
Greetings. :thumbup:
 
Good stuff Luis.
I tend to agree with Robert about backing the filled areas. A piece of plastic card inside the wing will support the putty and allow a better 'blend' into the upper surface. Not sure how well the green putty works, as i always use 'Milliput' for this type of job.
 
Nice explanation, and if it works for you then it is of course fine! I have not personally used the green version but the others from squadron have shrunk on me, sometimes weeks later.
Thanks Robert, I have not used much of this green putty, only in 2 or 3 of my models, I have not noticed changes and it has fulfilled what I needed. I draw so much attention how hard it remains once it has dried.
I still work with some details and the lines of rivets, but I will start sending some photos.

Saludos y excelente inicio de semana para todos. :thumbup:
 
Good stuff Luis.
I tend to agree with Robert about backing the filled areas. A piece of plastic card inside the wing will support the putty and allow a better 'blend' into the upper surface. Not sure how well the green putty works, as i always use 'Milliput' for this type of job.
I have seen that several modelers use this Milliput; It will be worth considering to get it. :idea:
At the end of the day one can settle in with some special ones for certain needs and have "alternatives" that may be a better option. Thus, I have seen some recommendations of some "alternatives" of people like you who know what you speak, for the enjoyment of dealing with this.
And I love it, thank you Terry.

Saludos con cariño hasta UK amigo. :thumbup:
 
Just catching up and I agree with the guys. Squadron Putty is intended as a surface filler and, in my experience, will not fill open gaps by itself unless there is a fairly solid backing behind it. I would not be surprised if, during sanding, you find that the plug breaks off.

I would have filled the hole with plastic card and surface primer. Good luck though!
 
Milliput was not something I had used until I read about Airframes experience. I tried it and have not looked back for certain applications. It is a two part solution and your milage will vary if you do not get the proportions correct but it dries rock hard. The standard version as opposed to the fine version seems to be easier to work with especially if you have to scribe or rivet through it. The fine version tends to flake more easily in those cases. But just like you have done with the green putty applying some form of primer or other self leveling coat on top results in a wonderful finish.

The nice thing about this hobby is there are always more than one ways to tackle an issue. And there is no "wrong" or "right" way, it is whatever works best for you with the materials that you have on hand. I have noticed a trend of newer modelers, rediscovering some of the older methods in favor of some of the newer wonder products that are considerably more expensive.

However all the putty's and epoxy's tend to suffer from one particular weakness in this application, they do not perform a "hot" bond with the surrounding plastic so they are susceptible to being knocked out or jarred loose. That is why most folks tend to combine them with a bit of plasticard. Just food for thought. As always your progress is amazing and very nicely detailed! I continue to watch with interest!
 
Interesting and valid comments, I thank you take the time to share them Terry, Andy and Robert. :salute::salute::salute:

Good thing that at the beginning of this thread, I mentioned that I wanted to avoid the landing gear so as not to get into "so much complication with the details" ... :crazy: hahaha, ... a lot of detail work has come up, but it was my decision to get Do the honors to this old mold, learn from their suggestions, practice and know more in particular of this version of Corsair. :arrow::idea::thumbright:

The kit brings four machine guns, like the ones Wojtek showed us in his image from post # 104 ...Here another similar photo where we also barely shows them behind those HVAR rockets...

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However in the training version we are making changes to six M2 Browning machine guns of 12 7 mm (.50)
Source: Wikipedia: Chance Vought F4U Corsair / armament


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I made a dry fit with one of the wings, to see the location the new holes of the machine guns and remove the ones that the kit brings.
And trace the new shrapnel exits at the bottom of the wings.

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What follows is the work to make these new adaptations, ... :evil: but already advancing in this process, ... I discovered a kit error in the lower part of the wings, which I did not see in time ...#-o

I will attend questions outside my therapy and return with more of the advance ...
I already have some of the photos to upload soon ...

Saludos :thumbup:
Luis Carlos
 
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As far as the armament is concerned... the F4U-4 was armed with the standard 6 Browning 12,7mm MGs while the F4U-4C(4B) was equipped with four Browning M3 20mm cannons. Judging by the image of the kit wing I would say the Revell model is more suitable for the F4U-4B(C) type. So , the armament of F4U doesn't have anything in common with the training or combat usage. However , glad you noticed the difference. :thumbright: :)
 
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Hi Luis, here's a picture from my F4U-1A build showing the accurate locations and sizes of the shell ejection chutes (the F4U-4 is the same).

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The Revell kit locations for the chutes in the F4U-4 6 MG configuration are not quite right and they are too wide. Probably not worth worrying about though unless it particularly bothers you, especially given the interfering location of the rocket pylon locator holes (which are also wrong and should all be in front of the flap as shown in the picture of 97 above!).

[EDIT] Here's another useful shot of a F4U-4 showing the locations of ejector chutes and rocket pylons.

f4u-4.jpg
 
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That's it, it looks great that bird Kirby and that's what I mean in terms of those shell ejection chutes.
Nice
Good image Geo.
Gracias amigos por tu apoyo. :thumbright: :thumbleft:

... and that's when I started; Measuring well the distances and size of each new rectangle.
The utensils I used and the first sample of the new shell ejection chutes.

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Reviewing reference pictures, I have this pair of images, among some others ...

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apoyo2.jpg


Was when after putting both wings in parallel, :shock:... I realized ...: :angryfire: :banghead:

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1) The original shell ejection chutes of the kit are parallel to each other, instead of facing the center of the aeroplane.
2) When I calculated and made the trace of the new holes, I made them in the right direction, but they were uneven when putting both wings together, leaving a distance (... ouch!! ...)

To be frank, only you will know (but do not tell anyone else :-$ ). I have arguments to justify not complicating myself in another repair:

A) The shell ejection chutes will be a little hidden among the SCAR rockets.
B) The color of the Corsair is a dark blue and fortunately where those gaps go, the green fringe will not pass !!
C) The plane will go in flight, so it will be "almost" impossible to see the error.

... well, after the sour drink, I need to pay more attention to learning to revise in a more conscientious way the instructions, the pieces and the process that I am going to follow to arm my models (simpler, older or Easy as they might seem) and learn to live with the consequences. LESSON LEARNED. :doubt:

These are the photos that complement part of this stage:

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:shaking: :dontknow: :shaking:
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I covered the shell ejection chute left over with PP of Vallejo.

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When it dries well, it will be easy to leave that repair soft (I hope).

I followed with the rivets in the other parts of the Corsar, but I did not want to stop venting my mistake with you. :lookslikerain:

Comments always well received, thank you.

Saludos :thumbup:
 
Gracias turbo y Wurger por su entusiasmo e interés!!

I am just finishing a special "sequence" of photos, of a madness that I got into "now that I said I did not want to do so much detail", ... but it is clear to me that I only apply myself to " Inverted therapy ".
At night I was thinking about the HVAR of the kit and the SCAR I need. Between dreams I was thinking how to do what I require. :idea:

Today I have practically a free day, only with a couple of business appointments in the evening; So I got up early to get down to work with my new SCAR rockets.

See you soon... :thumbup:
 

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