**** DONE: 1/48 Ta 152H - Allied Advance and Defense of the Reich WWII.

JKim · Mar 28, 2016

Thanks for checking in guys! I'm back from my two week trip to Kazakhstan/Kyrgyzstan. I spent this last week processing the over 2,500 pictures that I took during the trip and posting them on Facebook. I'm almost at the point where I can venture back into the workshop and resume my builds.

JKim · Apr 1, 2016

After taking such a long break from modeling, it took a bit of discipline to get back in there and pick up from where I left off. The Ta 152H was sitting on my work table with the pre-shading done and a coat of RLM 76 applied to the bottom and sides. Not having any good data on any H-1 machines other than Green 9, I made the executive decision to model that oft-depicted machine. So... the next step for me was to paint part of the undersides in natural metal. I didn't have any clear references as to the extent of the natural metal areas on the bottom so I just took a good guess.

The area was masked off with Tamiya tape and Post-its and treated with base coat of Tamiya Black. Alclad White Aluminum was used for the majority of the area with a central sub-panel painted in Dark Aluminum.

The interior sides of the flaps were given a black base and then a RLM02 overcoat.

The top side camo is next. I'll need to create mixes of RLM 82 and 83 from the Tamiya and Gunze-Sangyo colors that I already have. The "power egg" will be masked off and painted a darker green. Thanks for checking in!

Wurger · Apr 1, 2016

rochie · Apr 1, 2016

I like that John

Gnomey · Apr 2, 2016

Great work so far John!

JKim · Apr 4, 2016

Thanks peeps! Continuing with the painting of Green 9... the upper wings and stabs were masked off and painted first with the lighter RLM 82 green. Referencing Wayne's 1/32 build of Green 9, I tested and used Tamiya XF67 Nato Green for this color.

The darker RLM 83 green was a Gunze Sangyo color that I had laying around. The camo demarcation was simply free-handed with the airbrush.

After the upper surfaces have been painted, the masking tape is removed to prepare for fuselage painting in the same two colors.

The upper mottling is done.

The "power egg" including the upper cowling between the engine and the windscreen is masked off and painted in a darker green.

Next will be red and yellow fuselage bands. I'm also going to pull out my Montex D-9 masks to see if I can use cross masks instead of decals. Thanks for checking in!

Wurger · Apr 4, 2016

Crimea_River · Apr 4, 2016

Nice!

rochie · Apr 5, 2016

It is indeed

fubar57 · Apr 5, 2016

Beauty.

Geo

Wayne Little · Apr 5, 2016

Excellent!

JKim · Apr 5, 2016

Thanks for the comment guys! Painting continues... I added the red and yellow fuselage bands.

The cowl flap membranes were masked and painted dark aluminum.

I recycled the vinyl Montex masks for the Hobby Boss 190D-9 to paint the upper wing crosses.

The lower wing crosses and tail swastikas were also masked and painted.

I did not have the appropriate size masks for the fuselage crosses so I'll either use decals or cut my own masks. Finally the exhausts were masked off and repainted.

Wurger · Apr 5, 2016

Crimea_River · Apr 5, 2016

Liking it.

Wayne Little · Apr 6, 2016

T Bolt · Apr 6, 2016

Beautiful work John

Gnomey · Apr 7, 2016

Looks great so far John!

JKim · Apr 8, 2016

Thanks fellas! A few days work to report on. A gloss coat was put on in preparation for decals. I've been playing around with my primary gloss coat (Alclad Aqua Gloss) the last couple of models. For this coat, I tried thinning the Aqua Gloss with a bit of Mr Leveling Thinner. This thinner seemed to thicken the Aqua Gloss in the airbrush cup but it sprayed pretty well.

I softened the wing edge scallops, which were hard-masked with tape, with my airbrush.

The decals were applied using a combination of Microset/Microsol and a first try of Solvaset. I didn't notice any huge difference between Microsol and Solvaset on these Z-M decals. The decals were sealed using a light coat of Aqua Gloss.

After the decals were done, I did a little post shading on the lighter surfaces using a very diluted brown.

The tail werk number decal ended up crooked up so I had to scrape it off, sand it down and repaint the tip of the rudder. Luckily, Z-M supplies a few full sets of the werk number decals.