**** DONE: 1/72 Bf-109E Hasegawa - Me/ Fw Group Build.

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Good progress so far. One little tip for the future - when spraying an overall colour, such as the RLM 65 on the fuselage and undersides, there is no need to mask the rest of the airframe (apart from areas such as cockpit etc). In fact, with this colour, it could be used on the entire airframe, acting as a primer for the uppersurfaces, as it is light enough to be easily covered by the following colours.
Of course, when you come to spray or brush the upper surfaces, then mask the lower parts. Save you time and materials.
 
Good progress so far. One little tip for the future - when spraying an overall colour, such as the RLM 65 on the fuselage and undersides, there is no need to mask the rest of the airframe (apart from areas such as cockpit etc). In fact, with this colour, it could be used on the entire airframe, acting as a primer for the uppersurfaces, as it is light enough to be easily covered by the following colours.
Of course, when you come to spray or brush the upper surfaces, then mask the lower parts. Save you time and materials.
Its not in the text because i forgot but the wings and upper fuselage had already been painted black gray, but not splintered yet, the original idea was to spray the blue and leave a haze lineslightly below the hard tape line, but such is the plans of mice and men! The tape was to protect that finish, but of course that is academic now!
 
Next, let's look at the techmod decals, not bad
As is common with techmod, the color guide has the wrong colors in the illustrations, but the correct ones are listed in the text

I don't think it's common. Just the Techmod uses the way of printing to show a camo scheme in simple, general way without the artistry in making illustrations. In other words, if these would be of that, you had to pay much more for their decal sheets.
 
Not much today, pealed tape and touched up the paint job, it was very hot and humid and no AC so little work done!

bluesides.jpg

bluesides1.jpg
 
Hot and humid is it Chris, bitter cold and windy here so my paint wouldn't dry as quick. Nice job you have done though despite the conditions.
 
Thanks guys, today's update;

Since airbrushing is out, how to get the camo effect is the next issue.

Looking at black and white photos shows me the cammo was very light on the sides, so I will attempt it with some brush tricks. First, blackgreen is diluted and splotched on the sides.

day3.jpg

day31.jpg


While that is drying i hand painted the splinter pattern in medium green on the upper surfaces, this looks a little rough but should be fine after its glossed and weathered a bit.

day32.jpg

day33.jpg


Next, its time to dull down the splotches even more, so the blue color is thinned and bushed over it, making it blend quite a bit.
day34.jpg

day35.jpg


I will clean up the rough edges after its dried completly, but it looks pretty good for what its representing I think!
 
Coming along nicely Chris, I've got to admire your pluck attempting something like that camo without an airbrush, I'd be all thumbs trying it.
 
Its not perfect or 100% realistic but it looks ok to me Vic. I long ago realized I will never be great at this, so good is good enough!

I have my eye on a nice airbrush to replace my failed one now, but again, have to wait to build up some money first, this economy is brutal on the hobby.

Today's update;

Painted the nose and tail white in prep for yellow
nose.jpg

nose1.jpg


next, the nose and tail are painted yellow and allowed to dry.
nose2.jpg

nose3.jpg


When that has dried the model was spreayed with polish and shined up, and finally a thin cote of testor's gloss is sprayed on it.
nose5.jpg

nose4.jpg


When that is dry the declas can be applied, then touch ups of the props will be done, followed by dull cote and weathering before the canopy is painted and attached. The landing gear (which is already painted) will be added last.
 

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