Crimea_River
Marshal
I think Kirby has nailed it. If you do that, there likely won't be a need for a further post shade. Great stuff here.
**** DONE: GB-36 1/48 Mitsubishi J2M Raiden - Axis Manufactured Aircraft of WWII
- Thread starter parsifal
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- #42
parsifal
Colonel
Okay first up, here are the results of my recovery effort. I applied 9 parts thinner to 1 part XF-71 as suggested, reduced the operating pressure of the airbrush to its lowest setting and applied that mixture to the floor pan after masking. I used a total of 0.18 mls of this mix.
There is some touching up here and there, but I think that looks reasonable enough.
A task not too far away is beginning to loom. How to deal with the IP itself. The IP panel is basically a flat panel, not surface detail, onto which I attach a clearglass piece at the top. ive dry fitted that piece in the following photo;
At least that's how I think it goes together. Lots of clean up to do and not a lot of detail either
now for the fun bit. I actually have two IP decal sheets to choose from, one is a partial set from what I believe are the original decals, the other is a Hasegawa product of higher quality, but the dial positions are not as accurate. Nevertheless I'm tending towards the Hasegawa choice.
I don't think scratch building or modification of the IP back board is advisable. I would have to pre-drill aand then recess these decal images. The tolerances to the edges of the IP aren't enough to safely do that, plus the images posted earlier in this build thread show th gauges to be a raised detail more often than a recessed one. I will have to think about this a bit more
Anyway here are the decals I have to choose from......
The kit supplied decals
The hasegawa alternative
There is some touching up here and there, but I think that looks reasonable enough.
A task not too far away is beginning to loom. How to deal with the IP itself. The IP panel is basically a flat panel, not surface detail, onto which I attach a clearglass piece at the top. ive dry fitted that piece in the following photo;
At least that's how I think it goes together. Lots of clean up to do and not a lot of detail either
now for the fun bit. I actually have two IP decal sheets to choose from, one is a partial set from what I believe are the original decals, the other is a Hasegawa product of higher quality, but the dial positions are not as accurate. Nevertheless I'm tending towards the Hasegawa choice.
I don't think scratch building or modification of the IP back board is advisable. I would have to pre-drill aand then recess these decal images. The tolerances to the edges of the IP aren't enough to safely do that, plus the images posted earlier in this build thread show th gauges to be a raised detail more often than a recessed one. I will have to think about this a bit more
Anyway here are the decals I have to choose from......
The kit supplied decals
The hasegawa alternative
Crimea_River
Marshal
The cockpit floor is much better now. As to the IP, I agree the Hasegawa set looks better. I would not drill holes in the flat panel as an option. Rather, I would either just apply the decal to the panel directly or, if I had a punch, make some raise bezels from plastic card. The other way to do this would be to cut thin slices of rod, glue those on with CA, then sand them down so they are equally proud of the surface. Locating the raised parts can be tricky but you'll need some sort of template made using the decal as a basis.
Nicely done so far!
Hasagawa set is definitely better.
Hasagawa set is definitely better.
fubar57
General
Lots of good advice here which I'll save for later. Good on you for trying new stuff Michael
- Thread starter
- #46
parsifal
Colonel
Have made steady progress over the weekend, but Ive stopped short on buttoning up the fuselage. I wanted to let follow
the decals and stuff cure before I handle them too much...
Anyway, progress shots
Cockpit is basically done . I fashioned the seat cushion from a piece of modelling clay of all things
Sorry for the very bad photo. Camera didn't like the light I think. This is the port side side wall. For the starbosrd side I added some fuel and hydraulic lines and a couple of what I think were fuel lines
Last.y the IP. Had some difficulties here .....
the decals and stuff cure before I handle them too much...
Anyway, progress shots
Cockpit is basically done . I fashioned the seat cushion from a piece of modelling clay of all things
Sorry for the very bad photo. Camera didn't like the light I think. This is the port side side wall. For the starbosrd side I added some fuel and hydraulic lines and a couple of what I think were fuel lines
Last.y the IP. Had some difficulties here .....
Crimea_River
Marshal
Agreed. A bit of silvering on the IP but your close-up would really accentuate that.
I'm a neophyte on Japanese types but didn't the pilot get just one shoulder belt?
I'm a neophyte on Japanese types but didn't the pilot get just one shoulder belt?
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- #49
parsifal
Colonel
I couldn't see the silvering until after I had taken the photot.
I don't have any strong evidence about the harness question, but other models of this type I have seen have two shoulder straps
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- #50
parsifal
Colonel
This is a video of the Revell 1/32 kit, showing a two strap harness
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rOMnxceDw4M
and a still from the clip (3:05 minutes into the clip )
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rOMnxceDw4M
and a still from the clip (3:05 minutes into the clip )
- Thread starter
- #51
parsifal
Colonel
gotta start thinking of the main colour for the exterior. any suggestions as to mixes and percentages to use . I basically want to reproduce the image from the box art, although would aim to be a more authentic if possible.
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Nice work Michael. The internal detail should look more than acceptable once the fuselage is closed up.
Looking good Michael.
turbo
Staff Sergeant
Coming along nicely now Michael.
Good work so far!
- Thread starter
- #57
parsifal
Colonel
Images of the cockpit, with the fuselage buttoned up. the canopy is just placed not fixed as yet
- Thread starter
- #59
parsifal
Colonel
No your right. I'm hoping that getting rid of some of the flash at the base might improve this. For a kit made in 1973, the clear parts aren't bad for clarity. its the fit that is the worry.....
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