I agree. Are you intending to leave it glossy then? I also see that you are adding the antenna wire already and, if so, you may be risking damage with the remaining handling you need to do.
Uve made some further progress. After studying the cloe ups of the port side fuselage and the below par fit pf the canopy. I decided to mount yet another rescue. Sanded back along that port side applied filler near the canopy join, sanded again , then resprayed, lacquered and buffed. Waited about 12 hours, applied some weathering near the wing root, caused I think by pilots and ground crew scuffing the paint work in that area.
Whilt I waited for the paint to set, I also tried to put some dirt and grime effects on the black tyres, put together both U/C assemblies. I darkened up the brake mechaisms attached to the wheel hub and scratch built some brake lines. not outstanding results, but was my first attempt at this sort of detail
by this stage the pain on the respray was dry , so ive gone to work on the decals. Bad silvering on one of the flashes on the port side, notwithstanding having used a veritable truckload of decal setting fluid. Im disappointed with that outcome, but I otherwise really like those huge flashes on the fuselage
Prop is not yet fitted, just dry fit to check everything.
Thanks Terry was thinking exactly the same, though not much room for error.
For the moment Ive returned to the drop tank issue a decision is fast becoming necessary. Definitely will be more or less sticking to the kit supplied attachment, though there is still one detail that continues to baffle me. Referring to Wurgers Post 107 there are some contemporary shots of the tank that suggest a longitudinal strengthener of some sort.
Highlighted grabs from Wurgers photo are attached
I think I will install some kind of scratch built strengthener myself to reflect this detail.
Note also the angle of the tank relative to the underside fuselage and deployed wheel well cover
Hard to tell, and, not knowing much about Japanese aircraft, I can't really offer any valid advice. However, that might be one of the fuel lines (either pressure, or fuel), fed through a fairing, into the pylon and thence into the fuselage connection.
Michael, for the silvering, get yourself a sharp needle, place a drop of setting solution on a section of the silvered area and then poke one or more holes in the decal with the pin in the center of the drop. Let the solution sit for a bit, say 30 seconds, then wipe and you should see the silvering disappear. You may need to experiment with the amount of time that you need to let the solution sit as some are stronger than others. Repeat until all of the silvering is gone.
with regard to the silvering issue, Last thing last night, whilst the decal was still not dry, I put on a last coat of setting fluid, not thinking it would much, but hey what the heck.....I woke up this morning, walked out to the t workshop, to find the silvering had just gone. Don't know if that is a permanent, thing or not, but hey, I just like that it is....
The other thing about the tank issue is that studying those B&W shots, ive convinced myself that the tank is slightly different in colour to the underside IJA more grey. look at the LG fairing beside some of the shots. Even when in the same amount of light the tank has a different colour shading. I think it is a darker grey most likely but could also be a green colour of some sort .
I wouldn't fret too much about it Michael. I've got 5 books on the Raiden and probably 98% of period photos aren't showing a fuel tank attached, even airborne. Not sure about Japanese SOPs but maybe tanks and aircraft weren't married to each other, grabbing the first one available to mount. Here's one pic I could find with tanks attached, look the same colour to me.
Ive attached that cross bar in the finish, as well as a bunch of other bits and pieces on other parts. Will summarise and post pics later on giys. need sleep right now....
Looking good Michael. Decals need a very smooth glossy area to settle into which is why we do the Future coat. Alternatively when I did the Black Widow I painted with Gloss Black and saved the Future step. Now with military flats I've taken to adding another step and that is to put down a layer of gloss clear over the Future every place a decal is going to go. And I add a couple of drops of Microset to my decal water.
Glad your decal un-silvered