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Geez...Vic.... you can start frying scrambled eggs.I suggest painting models in your fridge.
Looking very sharp Vic, nice one!
Weathering. There are a couple of tutorials/guides here somewhere, including Wayne's excellent pastels tutorials. Obviously, we each have our own preferences and methods, and, to a certain extent, where to begin can be determined by the type(s) of paint and clear coats used, both for the model's colour scheme, and for any additional work, including weathering. As you will most likely appreciate, to cover the subject even partially would require a fairly hefty book, so this thread isn't really a suitable place to try to reply and give advice but, as a starter, or (very) rough guide, here's the sequence I tend to use mostly, plus a couple of hints and pointers.
Once the model is painted, I normally do any initial weathering before any clear coats are applied. This will be in the form of paint scuffing, wear and any chipping, the amount/degree obviously depending on the subject etc. Also, the base for any staining, such as exhaust, gun smoke, oil and fuel etc is laid down at this stage. The mediums used are more often the basic paints, but also pencil, graphite powder and occassionally pastels. Any initial panel line work is also done at this stage, lightly for now (although it's rarely heavy anyway).Note that paint wear is rarely deep enough to show bright bare metal - more oftn it should be the btop surface of paint worn, showing a paler shade of the actual colour, or the primer. Where the metal is exposed, unless it has happened 'violently', battle damage or other heavy surface damage/puncture, then it is rarely shiny silver! Therefore, it's better to tone-down any 'bare' metal, by using a silver grey pen/pencil or, as i do mostly a steel or silver paint, with varying degrees of matt white added.
Once the initial weathering has been completed, then any fading or dirt not incorporated during the initial airbrushing of the colour scheme, is lightly added, either by damp brush, dry brush, or airbrush, or a combination of these. Then the gloss clear coat(s) are added.
Once decaling is completed, invariably some of the dedals will also need toning down, and any continuation of panel lines, htaches, weathering dirt etc, carried into0 those decalled areas requiring it.
Once this is done, any heavier weathering is completed over the gloss coat, which is mainly things like exhaust staining and similar.
The finishing clear coat is then applied , matt, semi matt or whatever, followed by any final additions to 'outer surface' weathering, thatis, those stains etc which would be 'fresh', and not part of the overall patina of the airframe. This would certainly be exhaust staining, gun smoke smears, and definitely any ground surface deposits - mud splashes, dust etc. These touches must, I feel, be finished off over the final coatings, in order to prevent them looking diffused and 'encapsulated' under the clear coats, and therefore too artificial. As the basis of these stains have been done first, the final touches are just 'bringing hem to life', and can be done very lightly if required.
Not really a detailed expalnation of 'how to', but at least the sequence, or my sequence anyway, might provide a starting point. One thing though, having decide which method you're going to try first - experiment before touching the model!