Eduard 1:48 Spitfire Mk.XVI (WEEKEND EDITION)

[fubar57]

This is my next hurry-up project. The kit box says weekend but I'm gonna try get it done by the end of the month. Photos stolen shamelessly from the Eduard site. Lots of parts not for use.

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My chosen subject...

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On an unrelated note. I was doing room cleanup and searching for suitable Zombie GBs. I found several kits I never knew I owned and in one of those kits were the lost instructions for the now finished Hasegawa Typhoon and Tamiya Bf 109E

 

[Wurger]

 

[fubar57]

Started on Page 4 because I haven't figured put a paint sequence for the innards yet. There is a spar to be glued in front of the wheel wells that contains part of the wheel wells and to induce diherdral....I think. There are six more wheel well parts per side in two steps

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This is why I think its to induce dihedral. The left side is glued and I'll let it set over night before gluing the right side

 

[Crimea_River]

It's a great kit Geo. I built Eduard' s IXe and loved it.

 

[rochie]

I like it Geo.

i have a revell mk xvi in the pile

 

[Wurger]

 

[fubar57]

Wing innards are done. It looks like Eduard wants you to join the parts together and then mount them to the wing as a whole. This seemed fiddly so I mounted them in the sequence shown, left side already done. A great fit all around

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I'll let this set up and then join the uppers wing parts. Started getting the cockpit innards ready for painting. Attaching the almost invisible towel rack or whatever it is to the rear bulkhead was very nerve racking, photos later

 

[Wurger]

 

[fubar57]

Wings are done. For those not familiar with the towel rack or whateveritiscalled, its part L13 and despite what the instructions show, there are no rectangular mounting points

 

[Airframes]

Fiddly.
Far as I know, it's just a support bar for the harness shoulder straps.

 

[herman1rg]

I love the layout of the parts on the clear sprue.

 

[Wurger]

 

[rochie]

Nice work Geo

 

[Ralph Haus]

Great interest in the finishing!! Paint choice? Clear coat choice? Weathering/panel lines? I'm on my second 'silverish' kinda paint scheme and am still skittish. What I am noticing, when applied (in this case Valejo white aluminum), is because of the lack of my attending go the sprue clean up sanding, the sanding marks DO appear when shinny aluminum is applied (even though it should be matt?). Boldly. Since this is my 'experimental' Spitfire I'll just let it go and see what happens when the top clear coat (satin) is applied. I'll be looking closely at this build, but the kit most likely has a better sprue removal as compared to the low end Airfix that I'm doing? OR a higher skilled (patient) builder?

 

[Gnomey]

Nice work so far George!

 

[fubar57]

Thanks all. Ralph Haus Ralph, no decision on which Vallejo Metallic I'll use yet, close my eyes and grab a bottle maybe. I found a photo of the aircraft here...

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It doesn't look very shiny so maybe dull aluminium. I rarely clip parts from the sprue tree anymore. Instead I use these...

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Fold em up and put them in a standard hobby knife holder. It takes a little while longer to saw the part off the tree but there are times that I can't tell where the cut was made. To fine tune I'm using 400, 800 and finally 1500 grit sand paper to remove anything that's left

 

[Ralph Haus]

Thanks all. Ralph Haus Ralph, no decision on which Vallejo Metallic I'll use yet, close my eyes and grab a bottle maybe. I found a photo of the aircraft here...

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It doesn't look very shiny so maybe dull aluminium. I rarely clip parts from the sprue tree anymore. Instead I use these...

View attachment 619899
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Fold em up and put them in a standard hobby knife holder. It takes a little while longer to saw the part off the tree but there are times that I can't tell where the cut was made. To fine tune I'm using 400, 800 and finally 1500 grit sand paper to remove anything that's left

I'll give the craft saws a try on my next 'has-to-be-perfect' build. The finest grit I have been using is 600. I generally use a model makers file to reduce the sprue, after 'back' cutting to within about 1-1.5mm, and then sand with 400, and then the final 600. How long does it take to smooth with 800/1500??? It seems that it take 'forever' with 800/1500 to get anything off. I know...patience! The tips, greatly appreciated. I'll get there, someday!

Sometimes the sprue attachment has a 'bump', that is on top of a part or feature, like the edge of a wing that needs to be rounded. This is where I tyoically use the file to get to the 'rounded' shape and then sand. No saw will cut this, so what do you use to 'shape' these features?

 

[fubar57]

This is whats left. Eduard has thoughtfully put about 75% of the attachment point on inside edge instead of the outside so most of the filing/sanding marks won't be seen

 

[Ralph Haus]

This is whats left. Eduard has thoughtfully put about 75% of the attachment point on inside edge instead of the outside so most of the filing/sanding marks won't be seen

View attachment 619902

View attachment 619903​

I added to my post, so you may not have seen the edit? I have built some upper end, newer, Taymia kits where they have thoughtfully ended the sprue away from the cosmetic edge, having only to have to cut sprue to the (typically) glue surface. But many of the lower end kits, Airfix included, seem to not have caught on to this modelers dream sprue?

 

[fubar57]

True but I've built a few Hasegawa kits that had the attachment point right square on a panel line yet to the right or left there was 2cm of empty space