Galland's Bf 109E-4 1/32 scale

[Gerry]

Andy Chris thank you for your very kind comments. Much appreciated.

Wayne - bu**er! The rudder is tacked in place, but may be possible to remove without damage. I did manage to successfully change bar 41, admittedly before the rudder was attached. What is the inconsistency you identified? Depending how much has to be changed will determine whether it's possible to fix. Thanks for the heads up anyway.

 

[Wayne Little]

Well there are 2 things....lets start with the first, because the second is more awkward...

Port side victories 34 and 35 reading left to right should be Black, the next two 36 and 37 should be Red.....see if you can fix this first.

Gerry did you change the bottom row on your decals when you placed them? because decal No 36 was correct for the port side with the addition of the 41st in Red....?

 

[Airframes]

Inconsiderate ground crew, using two different colours - didn't they know it would cause problems 71 years later ?!!
Well spotted Wayne, and hopefully you can correct things without too much hassle Gerry.

 

[rochie]

fantastic build, hope you can make corrections without any damage

 

[Gerry]

Well lads, I'll do my best to sort this out. I took some time to think about the problem and I've put together my thoughts in PDF format. Hope you can open and read them.

Wayne, I appreciate that, with the time difference, I may be keeping you up nights with my problems. I hope not. I appreciate your contribution and I blame only myself and Techmod for any errors in the build.

If it's a case of being able to fix the problems with a bit of cut and paste, I'll get on to it this week, but if I need to order new decals, I'll have to put the build into hibernation for a couple of weeks, As I'm going to the UK this weekend and they'll hardly get here before I go.

Let me know what the best option is.

Gerry

 

[javlin]

Looking very very Nice there Gerry

 

[Wayne Little]

Gerry,don't sweat it mate...techmod did make an error too and by the same token I should have been more clear in the colour sequence because BOTH sides of the rudder should be the same reading from LEFT to RIGHT, decal 36 was correct for the PORT side with only the addition of the 41st in red, that is first bar on the fifth row left side.
While on the starboard side same thing reading from Left to right so bottom row starts from edge of rudder towards fuselage as latter 58 was black scored in 5819 and 59 and 60 were RED scored in gallands New Bf109F in 1941.
So bottom row of 7 on Starboard side needs to be from outer left and victory no 41 (Red) should be outer left as well, while 36 37 are to the right counting from the left.
Make sense? will do a mockup for tomorrow night.

 

[Gerry]

Thanks Kevin, despite the last minute hiccup, I'm very pleased with it.

Wayne, I think I understand what you're saying. If I were starting from scratch, I really needed 2 copies of decal 36. Because as you say, it's correct for the port side with just the addition of Bar 41 in red. Then on the starboard side, 36 is also correct, reading from left to right, with bar 41, 1st left on row 5. So Techmod basically got it wrong with decal 35, which is wrong for either side - and I suppose I got it wrong assuming a right to left sequence on the starboard rudder.

As I said in the PDF, I'm reasonably happy I can patch the port side, particularly as I need a new set of decals for the starboard side, which will need repainting and a new 36 applied. There should then be enough spare on decal 35 to make the adjustments port side.

I'm not quite sure when I'll be able to make the changes, as I don't think they'll mail me just one decal sheet overseas. I may have to place it as part of a larger order. However, I will post photos of the corrected rudder to the Thread when it's done, hopefully in the not too distant future.

Andy was asking, earlier, what my next project might be. I had planned a 1/48 Seafire, a kit I already have, in Irish Army Air Corps colours circa 1947. I may, however, hold off on that 'till the Carrier Aircraft Group build, if it would be deemed eligible. In the meanwhile, I was hoping to check out my local hobby shop to see if there's anything there for the current Messerschmitt/Focke-Wulf Group build. I probably won't be in a position to start 'till July, but that would still give me 6 weeks to complete it - I'll just have to work at twice the speed!

 

[Crimea_River]

Maybe a nice 262? The 1/48 Tamiya is a nice kit.

 

[vikingBerserker]

I have to say though, overall she's a real beaut!

 

[Wayne Little]

here is that bit of info Gerry, even though you got my meaning regards the sequence.

 

[Gerry]

David, thanks for your compliment, much appreciated.

Wayne, Thanks again for taking the trouble to post your graphic. From your last two posts I'm confident I know exactly what needs to be done now to get the victory markings right. Indeed, if anyone uses this thread to reference Galland's 109Es of that period, there should now be no confusion about the victory markings. Perhaps you'd consider posting your conclusions to Njaco's Galland Thread also? I'm also intrigued as to why the colour sequence changed on the bars between repainting?

Andy, that Me 262 is certainly a possibility. In this instance, I was hoping to buy the kit locally rather than on the internet. There are, as far as I know, only two specialist hobby shops serving the Dublin area, plus a few toy shops that carry a limited range of mainly Revell and Airfix kits. In the hope of keeping the specialists viable, I try to put as much business their way, as I can.

 

[Catch22]

FANTASTIC Gerry! Excellent work.

 

[BikerBabe]

Oh man, now I want to build a 1/32 Galland Messy too!
Ah well, I'd better finish the kits I have here first, before I begin on anything else.
She's looking real good, well done - thanks for sharing the build.

 

[Wayne Little]

Wayne, Thanks again for taking the trouble to post your graphic. From your last two posts I'm confident I know exactly what needs to be done now to get the victory markings right. Indeed, if anyone uses this thread to reference Galland's 109Es of that period, there should now be no confusion about the victory markings. Perhaps you'd consider posting your conclusions to Njaco's Galland Thread also? I'm also intrigued as to why the colour sequence changed on the bars between repainting?

The BLACK bars represent kills made in 5819, the RED were claimed in different aircraft. Now after the repaint on the YELLOW rudder the sequence is correct for the BLACK RED markings....I'm yet to explain why victories 23-30 are Black before the repaint, as Galland did not take possesion of 5819 until early Sept. after his 30th victory?

 

[Gerry]

Cory, Thanks for taking the trouble to post. I appreciate your comments.

Maria, good to hear from you again. The 1/32 scale gives great scope for super detailing - even more than I attempted - for anyone so wishing. Although I don't know if the Matchbox kit is still available, there at at least two other 1/32 109E kits on the market that I am aware of. Glad you liked the build and, as you're a professed Galland fan, hope it didn't disappoint

Wayne, yes, it was the discrepancy of not transferring the bar colours exactly, that I was questioning. Obviously the more research you complete, the more questions you turn up. This is obviously a passion for you and you're doing a great job there.

Cheers, Gerry

 

[Mik0]

Hello Gerry,

1st I need to say thanks for this thread as it is a HUGE source of info for anyone who is going to build the W Nr. 5819.
Now that the new Cyber Hobby E-4 is out and Eduard already relased even more detailed parts I think the time has come also for me
I just got one question about the engine numbering. You maybe got some picture, or just info about it by any chance please?

Thanks again and have fun

Mik0

 

[Gerry]

Sorry Mik0, the engine serial number for W Nr 5819 was one thing I could not pin down. Even my usual sources of info on the Forum, Airframes, Crimea_River and Wayne Little drew a blank. However, if you start your build thread and request that info there, someone might well be able to help. Glad you found the thread useful, but that's largely down to the other Forum Members - and I'm still intending to correct the victory bars, according to Wayne's conclusions, just haven't got to it yet.

Good luck with your build, hope you'll post your progress in 'Start to Finish Builds'.

 

[Mik0]

Thanks for the info Gerry, I'll start my Start to Finish Build thread than and let's see
About the victory bars I guess Cyber Hobby also did it wrong here:

the 41st should be red and now I realised, that the left > right reading is also wrong, right?

Mik0

 

[Gerry]

Mik0, you should realise that the breakdown between the red and black victory markings on Galland's 109s is probably still open to some dispute by experts. Conclusions are based on careful study of mainly black white photos and interpretation of colour from the tints of grey. This can be difficult with photos, as angles of lighting and light/shadow can make the same subject seem different if taken in different circumstances. I was very reliant on the input of Wayne Little, who has done a lot of research on this subject, and based on my own interpretation of some of the photos in this thread, I felt I could trust him. Also, nobody else chose to contradict his conclusions.

As regard your decals, if you choose to follow Wayne's view, then decal 79 seems the easier to adapt. The first three rows of 10 should be red, (cut out and replace row 3 with a full row of red). Row 4 is fine, with 36 37 1n red. Row 5 should have the first bar, (left 41), red (you could use row 3 for this and just replace the second red bar with black) Row 6 should have 7 black bars, so 57 bars in total, with the missing bars to the right. This would be the correct sequence for both port and starboard rudder, so you would need to correct decal 78 as well. The bars on the rudder, portside read from front to back and on the starboard side, from back to front. I realise that this sounds very complicated, but it's explained much clearer, with diagrams, earlier on in this thread. I had to cut my Techmod decals, as they are wrong as well, so it's possible, but tricky. The Techmod decals had a different sequence than yours, so if two professional outfits can't agree, what hope have the rest of us?

Hope all this doesn't put you off!

Gerry